Pelican Parts Forums - Bilstein front inserts

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Bentley manual says 58 ft-lb with new washer. (65 was something else)
I think if the washer is not to badly damaged, it can be reused.
Does Bilstein give the tool for free?

Gunter: Yes, the Bilstein tool is free, but I think we're talking about two different things - I was referring to the large threaded retainer that secures the cartridge inside of the strut bottom. I infer you are talking about the nut at the top of the insert shaft that tightens against the strut mount inside the front hood - hence your reference to reusing the washer if it is not too badly damaged.
For the free tool, call Bill at Bilstein 800-537-1085 and ask for the 'ring nut tool'.
Sorry for any confusion...

Joe

Does not appear to be free anymore!

I just called and "Bill" told me it was $12 to $15.

Well Bill is screwing you. That tool should be included with every purchase of inserts. How do they expect you to properly torque it without the tool? Buy a specialty tool? :rolleyes: Plus the tool is cheap mild steel. The thing starts to flex as you're cranking on the torque wrench.

The 95 +,- 7 lb-ft is indeed the right torque spec. for the collar nut (not the locknut atop the shock shaft inside the trunk) on the strut body. I took the number from the sheet of paper that comes in the shock box. DNT.....

Yes according to the installtion paper that comes with the shock, correct torque for the collar nut is 95 lb, + or - 7 lb. They do not have to be seated fully against the strut housing according to Bill at Bilstein. Once the torque wrench cliques at 95 lbs, your done. Jerry

I talked to Bill on Wednesday and he said he would send one out to me free of charge. I explained that I JUST purchased their product and wanted to install it correctly. I don't know why he told you there was a charge for it, maybe a flurry of calls since I posted the number?

Thanks for the clarification.
95 ft-lb is certainly up there and it sounds like the special tool is needed.
An E-mail to Wayne may explain why it isn't included with the inserts.

Yeh - I'll bet on the flurry. I told him I'd think about it...

Oh I wish I would have read this thread before I ordered my shock inserts from Pelican.... Oh what fun! I get to wait on a tool that should have been included.

Joe - Did you pull your wheel/strut assembly to get that kind of torque (95 lbs). Or did you leave it in the car.

Thanks,

I had my nephew hold the strut assembly with a strap wrench while I applied the torque of God using a 10" spanner and a chunk of pipe for leverage. It hasn't clunked yet and said Bilstein tool hangs on a nail in the garage yet unused. I will eventually snap it on a 1/2" torque wrench to double check the snugness when I do the brakes.
The difference in handling is really quite remarkable, solid as s**t.
I found my 48" Quik-Clamp to be just the tool to compress the new inserts to clear the fender - it requires a helper and good timing, because once you release the clamp it expands fairly quickly.
Good luck!

Joe

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL (Post 2624510)

1. Some Boge strut assemblies have sealed inserts, some have inserts that use the housing itself as the damper body for the oil, seals, diaphragms, little springs, washers,.......etc. that all comprise the damper portion of the strut. That being said, you will have to empty some if your struts are of the type which use the housing as the damper body.

Question. Why install new oil? I know it's an old racer's trick to use oil or coolant as a means to transfer heat from the damper to the housing for better cooling. I think it's just more trouble than it's worth and can be messy. Just my opinion.

2. Yes. It's good to have a helper counterhold the strut body while you loosen the collar nut that holds the damper in place. Pipe wrench on collar nut and strap wrench (or another pipe wrench) on the strut body works well.

3. The new inserts are supposed to come with a "specialty" wrench that you use to install the new Bilstein collar nuts. Seems more often than not, that wrench is absent from your front shock purchase. It looks like this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1149440891.jpg

Again, a pipe wrench will suffice to tighten in a pinch. But it is good to have the proper tool since the torque spec is 95 +,- 7 lb-ft. Better to be a little tight than loose. Example: A friend tightened his Konis with a hammer and punch when the special pin wrench wasn't available. Nut eventually came loose and made some loud clunking noises. Could have done some major damage to the strut or threads had we not found the problem the day before the 1st driver's ed. event of the year. :eek:

Hi:

Does the MS 08/6 size pictured fit the nut for Boge struts (I have bilstein inserts) and want to check my prior punch job with the correct tool?

Yes that tool pictured is the Bilstein tool that fits their gland nuts for Boge struts

Keep in mind that this adapter is a torque multiplier (or reducer) depending on the orientation of it. This link to Tekton brand of torque wrenches explains it and has a calculator

https://www.tekton.com/blog/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench

Basically if you’re increasing or reducing the length of your torque wrench when using the adapter, you have to adjust the torque wrench setting and it’s not necessarily insignificant. If you use the adapter at a 90 degree angle, there’s no change.

For example, the torque spec is 140Nm = 103 lb-ft. My Craftsman digitork clicker style (non-electronic) 1/2” drive wrench has a 17.5” effective length and the Bilstein adapter has a 2.5” center-center length. So if we use the adapter straight, the effective length of the wrench increases, which increases your leverage, and we have to reduce the setting on the torque wrench. 17.5”/(17.5” + 2.5”) = 0.875.

103 lb-ft x 0.875 = 90.3 lb-ft. A 13 lb-ft decrease to the setting on the torque wrench. . Not a huge amount but definitely significant.

Thanks KTL!

I understood increasing the lever arm adds to the torque. Maybe even covers the + amount of the max torque on another thread. Have to think about the 90 degrees note and will read your link again. I've used crow-foot wrench to remove and install my oil lines on the passenger side, works well with a breaker bar for weak old me :).

Again many thanks!