Yeah, totally agree, you want to take the air from the cold side of the car, not where all the heat lives.

The way it's setup on my car is a pain for maintenance, but it does work. I would love another bend to get it out of the way, but I don't think you want to make all these intake pipes longer than they have to be.

Yeah maybe I will run up through the side sheet metal. I needed some input before are start cutting up my sheet metal. My curent set up was to just keep it clean for testing

hole saw bits are out back, standing by

My poor tin ;) I had to actually cut it in two pieces and "pie plate" it back to close it up. Was not too much fun, but it took a couple of hours to get it right. I wound up using an air nibbler to make the swoopy cuts needed to both pieces.

Yeah the turbo itself sits somewhat high so that it does not hang down below the valance(the piping) so I will be doing some creative sheet metal work. luckily with my background in avaition sheet metal it should be not to bad.

Before moving the intake to the engine bay, I would do some experimenting to determine air temperatures.

I think when the car is moving the air temperature would be cooler where you have it now instead of in the engine bay.

Agreed that the tin was a bear to cut, in retrospect it would have been better to cut it with the tin off of the motor, mine is a little hacked.

I thought about that but I am mostly concerned about water entering it if I get caught in the rain.. What do you think??

Nice project!
As far as the air filter is concerned, at that angle water would never get far. Factor in the heat of the turbo housing and I'd say it's not an issue. It's not the coolest place but it may be acceptable. Try it for a while and decide for yourself before spending any more time on fab work.

my time is somewhat free for my stuff since this is in the good of the company. I know the hondo tuners allot of times run nothing on the turbo inlets at all.

rarley8 as per our conversation a while back. it was worth it and you were right I am still smiling/ till the tranny breaks:D

I am thinking kit minded so again may do something up the side of the engine and sheet metal and make it clean

If you can, provide a new piece of powder coated tin (complete with a union on both sides) would make it real easy to install!

check out the double bends in this thread http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/293023-bov-wg-connection-3-2-intake.html

A little water in the intake will only cool it so you can charge more :)
But I think it will get dirty fast sitting under the car.

well I now have the wideband hooked up and will be logging with that for a few days. I will resume the project monday. I need to finish up the air intake, and the sheet metal work and thats about it

Update goes to prelim dyno work on next tuesday (try to establish a base line) Hope to get it figured out by then

ok just got back from establishing base line. we did just a series of pulls to get afr number etc. Did one little pull at 3000 rpm with 2 psi I am pulling 150 hp at the wheels That seems very good. We go back next week to do some tuning and see what we can get. The problem benefit is that It is a buddy shop so he needs to make money as well as do favors so thats why it will be broken up tunning and dyno runs. But this is very promising.

I did a search of dyno results for 3.0 engines. At 3000 rpm one dyno graph showed about 83 HP at the wheels for a stock 3.0 with backdated exhaust and Triad muffler.

I'd say you're doing very well!

I Was happy now we will start tuning and it should hopefully be at our projected 350-380 with an intercooler. I plan to change intakes to the 3.2 setup if the evil bay purchase does not fall through. Then we can use a modified 3.2 IC. This should scream. Probably going to need a new clutch shortly:D

Ben:
Can the CV's take the torque?
j.p.

good AFR's Ben?

Up to 3300-3400 good AFR's then they drop off so we are going to mess with that next week.

As for cv's well we will find out but you would think it sure would as long as they are not abused with dumping the clutch etc

Great project, my friend!! Keep up the good work and please post a few photos along with the dyno and AFR charts. Inquiring minds want to know!

Doug

Great progress, Ben. I have been following this project intently every step of the way.

I never asked when at the shop with the dyno if they can print it out. I sure hope so. I would guess they could. if nothing else I can get it tuned there and then bring it to a dyno that has print outs. Although pretty sure they can at anyas (the place I brought it)

Here some pic as of today. i have switched to the 3.2 intakes still using the the mega squirt controler. A couple are of my exact set up and the other 2 pics are of what you carrera guys have been salivating overhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154215109.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154215200.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154215267.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154215334.jpg

Ben,

Looks Great!!

Did you have to modify the heads in order to use the 3.2 intake? I see you are using the TBitz fuel rails instead of the 3.2 rails, is there a reason for this?

I'm collecting parts for my 3.0 conversion to FI and have a 3.2 intake but recently saw the comments that you need to modify the head to use these and I've been second guessing this approach.

Thanks,
Mike

By the way, the custom muffler you did for me sounds fantastic on my cabriolet!!

Mike great to hear. as for moding the heads yes. I did not realize that when I got into it but for me (welding instructor) it was not big deal to add a weld bead and machine it down(did it on the car installed). I am using the t bitz fuel rails because I hade them. I never got the 3.2 stuff when I bought the intakes

Intakes $220 (no accessory's what so ever)

Throttle body $100

spacer blocks studs and gaskets $120 bucks

so I then just reused the fuel rails which work well. I see I have a fuel leack between the rail and the injector on #6 but I will fix that this evening.

I think this is the easiet way to switch to EFI. I would not go as far as to go with the 3.2 dme stuff but if I were to do this all again I would go with tony's kit and the exact setup I have. it works very well together.

Ben, look great. So.. when will the 3.2 kits be available? Cost?
Thanks, Ben

the 3.2 kits are being built as we speak. I should have several kits ready to go shortly say 2 weeks tops. of course no chips or rising rate Pessure regulator. both can be sourced from protomotive and one from some other company that I can't think of right now. I need to get together with Pelican parts for retail pricing if they are interested in even carring them. contact me directly for details

sweet, no pic of the 180 bend? still working on it I assume. I can't wait

BOV flange?

You have my last BOV flange at your house so I am waitng for my shippment from tial. it will be here monday. the 180 bend is coming in about 1 hour . I think instead of welding it tight I am going to have 2 silicon joints. this will accomidate for vibration and all other possible fittment issues for different turbo etc. I could weld it that not the issue just trying to think ahead

I think that's a good idea. I'll get that flange back to you

I have more flanges on the way.

Any how here is a pic of the 3.2 stuff. I have the braket coming monday so I will verify fit but it should be finehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154227341.jpg

so suggestions for the last pic?? Do you like it or should it be more one piece?? Probably use a different color connector. what would be your prefference??????

i think it'd be nice if the 180 part of it was one piece and then a connector and then the rest. Where would you put the BOV? we were thinking it should go over the 456 side close to where the rubber mount use to be for the stock air box. But there it would be heavy and some sort of brace from the old air box mount would be needed. But I'd rather have it there than the 123 side, it's all crowded with the other regulator and two new fuel lines. If ever an IC is installed it'd be easier work without having to move the BOV

ok Will do update later

Whats wrong with relocating the afm to the 456 side and taking out the 180º bend?

But if you want an intercooler, then you will pretty much have it like it is now, but the IC will carry the air across the motor.

Just thinking out loud... ;)

I think its simply mounting for the 3.2 guys and If we think "simplicity" then keep well enough alone? Thats my thought but thinking outloud is good. 99% of my posts are thinking like that

KISS