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71T 71T is online now
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Replacing Pop-out Window seal.

I am thinking about replacing the rubber seal that goes around the rear quarter window because it is old and cracked. I am just looking to replace the piece that attaches to the window itself (red arrow) and not the rubber between the window frame and the body.



My question is: Can I remove the window to more easily remove/reinstall this seal? There are fours allen bolts (black arrows) on the hinged side. Do I just unbolt those to take it out or do they screw into something on the b-pillar side that I don't want to mess with? Is this window adjustable as far as its alignment in the frame?

Thanks

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'71 911T
Old 07-19-2006, 09:04 AM
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Colin,

I just reinstalled the pop out windows in my 911. The pop out windows are real easy to remove, unbolt the 4 allen bolts and then the 3 screws on the latch (make sure the window doesn't fall out) and pull straight out from the outside. To install just reverse the order, you may need a hand holding the window in place.

Eddy
Old 07-19-2006, 09:11 AM
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If you are going one step further to replace the seal between the frame and the glass, there are screws inset on the edge of the straight frame section (under the frame/body seal). Remove these screws and the frame should come apart with a little wiggling.

I'm planning on doing this soon too, and maybe replacing the glass with lexan or plexi.

Good luck

BA
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Old 07-19-2006, 10:25 AM
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Remember to put the gaskets in hot water before trying to install them.
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Old 07-19-2006, 10:30 AM
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Thanks guys, sounds pretty simple. I just need to get the correct seal. It looks like our host just has the body to frame seal. Where can I get the one I need?
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Old 07-19-2006, 11:24 AM
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Try Stoddard or Tweeks, I think the glass/frame seal is around $40 each and the frame/body seals are around $60 each.

Good tip on the hot water.

BA
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Old 07-19-2006, 06:21 PM
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Thanks. You guys are always a great help.

The glass to frame seal says it's for 74-77. Is it the same as on my 71? Tweeks has one that says 68-77 I think.

Is the hot water just to make the rubber more pliable?

Thanks
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Old 07-21-2006, 05:58 AM
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Other than the hot water, is there a trick to these?

When I had my headliner replaced, I chose to have an upholstery and body shop do the work (they're separate, but just down the street from one another). Upholstery shop did the headliner; body shop removed and replaced the glass. Body shop (which I've had great experiences with) discounted the pop out window seals; you can tell they're not quite right and he didn't want to keep trying to take them off and put them back on for fear of ripping one...basically he said they were a real PITA.

I was thinking of trying them myself in the future. So any tips on getting them right--where on the windows to start, which way to work around, etc.
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Old 07-21-2006, 07:27 AM
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I replaced these seals in my 67 912. Getting the window, trim, and seals out was pretty easy. Reinstalling the seal that goes around the window frams was very difficult. After about 8 hours, I gave up and took them to a window installer.

It took the shop about 3 hours to get them seated right. They had a bunch of dental office like tools that did the job. It was well worth it though, David
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Old 07-21-2006, 09:03 AM
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Is the hard part getting the rubber in the groove or is it something else? Could you use soapy water or oil/grease to make the rubber go in easier?
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'71 911T
Old 07-21-2006, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 71T
Is the hard part getting the rubber in the groove or is it something else? Could you use soapy water or oil/grease to make the rubber go in easier?
Use any trick that you can conjure up. Hot water, hair dryer (not a heat gun) and lube or soap. It's not fun no matter how you do it.

This tool should help and you can get them at most glass shops.
http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/C/CRL216_5740-high.html?Origin=
Old 07-21-2006, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 71T
Thanks. You guys are always a great help.

The glass to frame seal says it's for 74-77. Is it the same as on my 71? Tweeks has one that says 68-77 I think.

Is the hot water just to make the rubber more pliable?

Thanks

Sorry for the delayed answer -- I haven't been on the board for a few days.

The part numbers were taken from PET for 69-73. The labeling on the link is Pelican's. The same seal is indicated in PET for all years through 77.

Joe
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Old 07-21-2006, 08:17 PM
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The hard part is inserting the seal into the groove on the window frame.

David
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Old 07-21-2006, 09:35 PM
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Very cussy job IMHO.

Getting the slot head screws out is sometimes impossible.
Drilling them is not easy..and even then the bent steel corner joints are hard to remove.

I recommend cutting and tearing away as much of the old rubber as you can and resealing with black silicon.
With care this looks fine and saves hours..

Kind regards
david
Old 07-22-2006, 01:59 AM
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I just did the frame to body seals, the top and bottom popped in easily. The B pillar piece was harder. I just pounded it in with a BFH (rubber), and also used a small screwdriver to push the bead into the frame. Also I used Wurth Rubber Care on the gasket as a lubricant. I used a lot of that stuff putting my car togerther...

Britt
Old 07-22-2006, 10:23 AM
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It is one of the most complicated things I done to my car.
and be sure use OEM seals.

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Old 07-22-2006, 12:56 PM
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