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Replacing Pop-out Window seal.
I am thinking about replacing the rubber seal that goes around the rear quarter window because it is old and cracked. I am just looking to replace the piece that attaches to the window itself (red arrow) and not the rubber between the window frame and the body.
![]() My question is: Can I remove the window to more easily remove/reinstall this seal? There are fours allen bolts (black arrows) on the hinged side. Do I just unbolt those to take it out or do they screw into something on the b-pillar side that I don't want to mess with? Is this window adjustable as far as its alignment in the frame? Thanks
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Colin '71 911T |
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Colin,
I just reinstalled the pop out windows in my 911. The pop out windows are real easy to remove, unbolt the 4 allen bolts and then the 3 screws on the latch (make sure the window doesn't fall out) and pull straight out from the outside. To install just reverse the order, you may need a hand holding the window in place. Eddy |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Seattle
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If you are going one step further to replace the seal between the frame and the glass, there are screws inset on the edge of the straight frame section (under the frame/body seal). Remove these screws and the frame should come apart with a little wiggling.
I'm planning on doing this soon too, and maybe replacing the glass with lexan or plexi. Good luck BA
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Brad Anderson 911 1970 Einspritzung Karmann Coupe 0012 Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles |
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Remember to put the gaskets in hot water before trying to install them.
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Sigurd 73.5T 3.2SS EFI X87 944S 3.0 |
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Thanks guys, sounds pretty simple. I just need to get the correct seal. It looks like our host just has the body to frame seal. Where can I get the one I need?
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Colin '71 911T |
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Try Stoddard or Tweeks, I think the glass/frame seal is around $40 each and the frame/body seals are around $60 each.
Good tip on the hot water. BA
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Brad Anderson 911 1970 Einspritzung Karmann Coupe 0012 Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles |
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These are available from Pelican:
Frame to body seal left: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=90154390120&I1.x=18&I1.y=13 Frame to body seal right: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_Search.cgi?please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&command=DWsearch&REFINE=Y&FORUM_REFER=&description=90154390220&description=90154390120&x=19&y=11 Glass to frame seal (same part for both sides): http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=294228&command=DWsearch&description=90154319120&x=12&y=5 Joe
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Joe Frantz 73 911 T |
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Thanks. You guys are always a great help.
The glass to frame seal says it's for 74-77. Is it the same as on my 71? Tweeks has one that says 68-77 I think. Is the hot water just to make the rubber more pliable? Thanks
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Colin '71 911T |
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Other than the hot water, is there a trick to these?
When I had my headliner replaced, I chose to have an upholstery and body shop do the work (they're separate, but just down the street from one another). Upholstery shop did the headliner; body shop removed and replaced the glass. Body shop (which I've had great experiences with) discounted the pop out window seals; you can tell they're not quite right and he didn't want to keep trying to take them off and put them back on for fear of ripping one...basically he said they were a real PITA. I was thinking of trying them myself in the future. So any tips on getting them right--where on the windows to start, which way to work around, etc.
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Roger 1968 sand beige 911 Normale coupe #11830091 1984 metallic moss green with champagne interior 911 Carrera coupe 2012 silver with red interior Boxster |
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I replaced these seals in my 67 912. Getting the window, trim, and seals out was pretty easy. Reinstalling the seal that goes around the window frams was very difficult. After about 8 hours, I gave up and took them to a window installer.
It took the shop about 3 hours to get them seated right. They had a bunch of dental office like tools that did the job. It was well worth it though, David
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99 996 C4 11 Panamera 4S 83 SC Targa converted to a 964 cab (sold) 67 912 (sold) 58 Karmann Ghia choptop (traded for the 912) |
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Is the hard part getting the rubber in the groove or is it something else? Could you use soapy water or oil/grease to make the rubber go in easier?
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Colin '71 911T |
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Quote:
This tool should help and you can get them at most glass shops. http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/C/CRL216_5740-high.html?Origin= |
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Quote:
Sorry for the delayed answer -- I haven't been on the board for a few days. The part numbers were taken from PET for 69-73. The labeling on the link is Pelican's. The same seal is indicated in PET for all years through 77. Joe
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Joe Frantz 73 911 T |
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The hard part is inserting the seal into the groove on the window frame.
David
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99 996 C4 11 Panamera 4S 83 SC Targa converted to a 964 cab (sold) 67 912 (sold) 58 Karmann Ghia choptop (traded for the 912) |
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Very cussy job IMHO.
Getting the slot head screws out is sometimes impossible. Drilling them is not easy..and even then the bent steel corner joints are hard to remove. I recommend cutting and tearing away as much of the old rubber as you can and resealing with black silicon. With care this looks fine and saves hours.. Kind regards david |
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I just did the frame to body seals, the top and bottom popped in easily. The B pillar piece was harder. I just pounded it in with a BFH (rubber), and also used a small screwdriver to push the bead into the frame. Also I used Wurth Rubber Care on the gasket as a lubricant. I used a lot of that stuff putting my car togerther...
Britt |
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It is one of the most complicated things I done to my car.
and be sure use OEM seals.
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