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Can't get new shift bushing into bracket

I am replacing the bushing behind the shifter that goes into the plate. I got the old one out by boiling it. I boiled the new one but still can't get it in. What's the trick? Also, I know I have to lubdricate the inside of the new ball cup bushing. Do I also have to lubricate the outside as well?

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Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance.
Old 08-12-2006, 06:20 AM
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Well. I found the threadf on this. Looks like I'm not the only one who finds it nearly impossible.
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John
Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance.
Old 08-12-2006, 06:39 AM
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If you are talking about the bushing that the shifter ball goes into then all you need is to lube the ball and the inside of the bushing with lithium grease and with some effort it should pop right in.
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Old 08-12-2006, 06:41 AM
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Re: Can't get new shift bushing into bracket

Quote:
Originally posted by rs6er
I am replacing the bushing behind the shifter that goes into the plate. I got the old one out by boiling it. I boiled the new one but still can't get it in. What's the trick? Also, I know I have to lubdricate the inside of the new ball cup bushing. Do I also have to lubricate the outside as well?
Basic Physic

Heating stuff cause them to expand, cooling stuff cause them to contract, execpt for water.

Trying throwing the bushing into the freezer over night or some really cold water with ice cubes for a while.
Old 08-12-2006, 06:53 AM
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I used the vise and screwdriver method. That worked.
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Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance.
Old 08-12-2006, 10:39 AM
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Yup, I used the Vice method and a screwdriver too. Just did this project today and was going to post to let you know how I did it, but you already got it. I guess great minds think alike!
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Old 08-12-2006, 07:26 PM
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How about a bit more elaboration for the rest of us following this thread? Did you use a large socket, or tube, behind the plate to support the opening when you pressed in the bushing? I just completed upgrading a 915 shifter housing using the Gate shifter kit and the factory short shift kit to upgrade my 901 shifter, and I'm staring at the bushing kit sitting on my desk thinking about all the horror stores I've heard about installing the shaft bushing. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks Allan

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Old 08-12-2006, 09:52 PM
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I did mine using a press and a socket on the backside of the bracket. It could probably be done in a vise using a thin piece of wood so as not to mar the bushing.
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Last edited by village idiot; 08-13-2006 at 01:36 AM..
Old 08-12-2006, 11:32 PM
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Gearbox - After seeing that pic, that's probably a better way to do it. Cause you could press your bushing all the way on right at the vice. But I did mine the same as in that Pic that village idiot posted EXCEPT for the socket. In place of that I used another piece of wood. As the vice pushed the bushing through the bracket I stopped and used a screwdriver on the edges and pushed the bushing the rest of the way through.

I hope this helps....
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Old 08-13-2006, 06:07 AM
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Thanks guys, I was thinking about the socket/tube idea as that's how I drive bearings in using a hydralic press. I still can't visualize how you can in there with a screw driver when you have both sides pressing against each other with the wood. Do you leave part of the bushing exposed, work the bushing with a screwdriver, then rotate it to expose another section of the bushing? Knowing my luck, soon as I release the vice to rotate the bushing, it'll pop out lol. Great pic tho, Thanks again Allan
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Old 08-13-2006, 12:32 PM
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The screwdriver is to pry the edge of the bushing so it clears the bracket. You are doing this from the top, sides, etc. I used a wooden workbench vise to press it in, so I didn't put anything in front of the bushing. The screwdriver was just to get the lip of the bushing to seat properly on the jagged side of the bracket.
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Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance.
Old 08-13-2006, 02:11 PM
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Do it the easy way: cut the bushing lengthwise (in the direction of shift rod travel) with a hacksaw. That will remoe just enough material to push it in by hand. It will not affect its operation. This isn't a rod bearing
Old 08-13-2006, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by cegerer
Do it the easy way: cut the bushing lengthwise (in the direction of shift rod travel) with a hacksaw. That will remoe just enough material to push it in by hand. It will not affect its operation. This isn't a rod bearing
Best advice on this subject
Old 08-13-2006, 02:26 PM
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But aren't Rod bearings completely cut in half?
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Old 08-13-2006, 05:37 PM
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I used a heat gun to heat the nylon and pressed it in. I used mechanix style gloves. The nylon was reasonably pliable after the heat. This was for the bushing illustrated by VE above. I have also pressed in a bushing into a 914 chassis shifter port on the firewall similarly. The bush is too hot to touch but not hot enough to bubble or catch fire.
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Old 08-13-2006, 06:53 PM
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Cutting this bushing is HORRIBLE advice. You might as well do a 'hack' job everywhere else then. If you can't make this bushing fit with the socket or a screwdriver then you have no business working on your P-car. It's too easy! Take it to the dealer or someone else. On a side note that if you EVER sell your car PLEASE disclose the fact that you hacked your car up to make parts fit. The 'Purist' would have you believe that the ONLY way is the FACTORY way is correct! I'm not a purist but even though this bushing isn't 'THAT' important I would not cut it. If it isn't a big deal to cut it way not sell an aftermarket one precut for 3/4 or 1/5 the price. They aren't out there as far as I could see. So my opinion is don't cut it, and use the vice and socket/screwdriver method and make it work like it's supposed to. If you are anal like me you won't lay awake at night wondering if it's going to come apart when you really need it.
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:03 PM
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If you put silicone grease on the nose/bevel part of the bushing after heating in hot water [dry thoroughly, first] ... it will go in the bracket a lot easier!

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Old 08-13-2006, 07:04 PM
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