So send me a ticket. ;)

Well...maybe we could talk website too, and I'll write the whole thing off when the time comes.

Where are you?

Being a carpenter for 37 years has given me some unique intuition as to how things align. I'll bet some bodyshop guys would LTAO at some of the stuff I do when it comes to measuring and setting up. Let me offer another thought or 2. Use templates, paper, wood or otherwise. And a cloth seamstress tape is a very good tool for finding dimensions on compound curves.

We should take this off line.

Indeed...but it looks like I can't PM you. I might still have your email addy...

nononono - leave this on-line. This is rare tech for pelican.

oh yeah - large.

Looking good. That's an interesting aero treatment you've got on the roof.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155780294.jpg

Chuck - that's proprietary - don't even think about it.

Keith...I wasn't suggesting that we take the whole discussion offlist...just the one where I was trying to bribe Milt into flying here and helping me with my project. :)

Hey Keith,

I have a buddy coming over today to help with the welding of the flares. Do you happen to have those numbers?

Thanks!

Glad to hear you got some local help. You can always brings pics and measurements back here to the forum. You get free help from multiple sources w/o any bribes. ;)

I'm actually thinking of videotaping it and putting it on the 2syllableword.com website as the first of my downloadable tutorials....

whoops, forgot about that - let me get you those measurements.

This is how we (Zuffenhaus) hang a 930 flare on a 911:

(make certain the flare is tight against the roll at the bottom of the 911 body - very important)

Disregard the outer edge of the flare you are installing - only the arch (of the wheel opening) is relevant to positioning.

First measurement (A) is from the edge of the taillight opening to the lower rear corner of the arch. Straight line dimension is 365mm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1181852491.jpg

Second measurement (C) is from the inner rear edge of the jack hole to the lower front corner (at line) or the arch. Straight line dimension is 470mm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1181852559.jpg

Now, the depth measurements!

First, depth from Fender A to Frame A (at the rounded boss of the lower bumper/valance support rod) is 325mm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1181852632.jpg

Straight line dimension of point B (top of arch) to inner frame directly behind it (over the top of the tire) is 365mm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1181852682.jpg

And Fender C to Frame C at point indicated is 330mm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1181852715.jpg

Aside from that, I try to tweak the flare up until it is similar in height to the SC/Carrera flare behind it, for good clearance when the car is lowered.

I position the flare and use 3 or so self-tapping sheetmetal screws to secure it to the original fender. I use a ziz-wheel (abrasive cutting disc) to start a cut at the TOP of the 930 flare. Then I use a pneumatic body saw to cut about 6 inches in either direction and tack as I go, down each side of the flare. If you've fit the flare properly, it will not walk or wrinkle on you and will line up at the bottom edge when you arrive there. If not, minimal tweaking is possible. Upon completion of the cutting, the old fender section will fall out (unless you've tacked it, in which case it can be motivated to displace itself fairly easily.)

That should get you a well-hung 930 rear fender flare. I'm still working on the 930 to RSR thing...

(BTW, these images/measurements are from a factory 930, in case you were wondering.)

Wow. Thanks Keith. You are a rock star.

keith...quick question. Do you cut through both the flare and the body, or do you essentially trace around the outside of the flare with the body saw?

Can I assume these numbers work for an early car as well?

We cut at the edge of the flare (unless the shape is goofy - occaisionally that is the case), meaning we cut just inside the perimeter of the flare - cutting both pieces of metal simultaneously for an exact fit.

I'm assuming by early you mean SWB? - and if that's the case, I'm assuming that if you are flaring a SWB you are also converting it to LWB. So, yes.

No, he has a '69.

Keith, I don't think anyone has nailed it as precisely as you. Great writeup!

ok, cool - all that should be the same for a '69. or earlier, if you are converting to LWB.

BTW, I slept at a Holiday Inn Express last night.