Pelican Parts Forums - welding flares, longhood RSR, alignment questions.

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- - welding flares, longhood RSR, alignment questions. (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/298521-welding-flares-longhood-rsr-alignment-questions.html)

sure, pull the top of the flare opening toward you. Push down on the flare where it gets joined to the fender to make it meet the sheetmetal. secure with a screw. stand back and look at it. If it looks too low, push it back in some, etc.

does that make sense?

get the fender happy, then just make the bumper match it.

you know what, I'll trace my template for you and mail it to you. What is your address?

That's nice of you, thanks. I'll PM you.

I got the passenger side tacked, seam welded, then ground down. It's really smooth and nice...probably my best welding work. (Which isn't saying much).

I should note that I welded it from the inside to reduce the amount of grinding I'd have to do on the outside.

I'll probably spend some time with a hammer and dolly shaping it a bit more, but I'm happy with how it turned out so far.

I'm a little intimidated by creating the filler panel for the bottom, and getting each side symmetrical. I guess I'll just take a lot of measurements....

On the bench:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207535110.jpg

Some perspective shots:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207535155.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207535207.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207535233.jpg

And finally the very nice seam on the inside...especially compared to what it was.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207535321.jpg

Another good thread to subscribe to !!!

Hi did you have the same for the front ?

It will be great ;)))

Quote:

This is how we (Zuffenhaus) hang a 930 flare on a 911: 
 
(make certain the flare is tight against the roll at the bottom of the 911 body - very important) 
 
Disregard the outer edge of the flare you are installing - only the arch (of the wheel opening) is relevant to positioning. 
 
First measurement (A) is from the edge of the taillight opening to the lower rear corner of the arch. Straight line dimension is 365mm. 
 
<img src="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads10/keithpictures+0571181852491.jpg" border="0" alt=""> 
 
Second measurement (C) is from the inner rear edge of the jack hole to the lower front corner (at line) or the arch. Straight line dimension is 470mm. 
 
<img src="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads10/keithpictures+0581181852559.jpg" border="0" alt=""> 
 
Now, the depth measurements! 
 
First, depth from Fender A to Frame A (at the rounded boss of the lower bumper/valance support rod) is 325mm. 
 
<img src="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads10/keithpictures+0621181852632.jpg" border="0" alt=""> 
 
Straight line dimension of point B (top of arch) to inner frame directly behind it (over the top of the tire) is 365mm. 
 
<img src="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads10/keithpictures+0591181852682.jpg" border="0" alt=""> 
 
And Fender C to Frame C at point indicated is 330mm. 
 
<img src="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads10/keithpictures+0631181852715.jpg" border="0" alt=""> 
 
Aside from that, I try to tweak the flare up until it is similar in height to the SC/Carrera flare behind it, for good clearance when the car is lowered. 
 
I position the flare and use 3 or so self-tapping sheetmetal screws to secure it to the original fender. I use a ziz-wheel (abrasive cutting disc) to start a cut at the TOP of the 930 flare. Then I use a pneumatic body saw to cut about 6 inches in either direction and tack as I go, down each side of the flare. If you've fit the flare properly, it will not walk or wrinkle on you and will line up at the bottom edge when you arrive there. If not, minimal tweaking is possible. Upon completion of the cutting, the old fender section will fall out (unless you've tacked it, in which case it can be motivated to displace itself fairly easily.) 
 
That should get you a well-hung 930 rear fender flare. I'm still working on the 930 to RSR thing... 
 
(BTW, these images/measurements are from a factory 930, in case you were wondering.)

I used the cut n weld as you go method on one of my front fenders and regular cut off then butt on the other side. Did the cut off then butt first and had a harder time with it. With the flare screwed on in three spots and nicely aligned its easy to use a cut off wheel and push the flare and cut off fender in just enough to spot weld as you go. Then the old flare just pulls out like it wanted to be out. Super simple. Just make sure it's all in the right spot. Really cool.

Great thread - in particular the reference measurements taken from a factory 930 for the rear flares. Does anyone have analogous measurements for the front flares, please?

Suscribed - great thread