Originally Posted by eimkeith (Post 3496225)

Mike - that looks like GT Racing front fenders (if they are fiberglass) with a Getty Design bumper - the GT racing flares are supposedly "correct" in shape for early RSR/ST, while the Getty bumper is designed to be the width of the 930 flares, which are wider at the bottom front edge than the RSR flares are.

Originally Posted by milt (Post 3327673)

The old skul grinding disc is just the hard fiber reinforced disc. Careful when you buy them at the home stores because some of them are made for concrete, etc. That's more likely to be confusing in the section where the cutting discs are, especailly if some jerk puts a concrete one on the metal cutting disc peg and you don't see the fine print. The labels are different colors, too. Go slow while grinding and cool with compressed air or a rag.

Now, some of your welds look like they are on top of the metal. When you grind the weld, look to see how thin you are getting. You can see when the thin part heats up and turns blue faster. You will need to reweld those areas. Next, look at the welds at night with a bright light just under the weld. If you see pin holes, reweld. The last step is to use a sandblaster to clean the slag out of those minor cracks you mention. That's just uneven welding and they are little fissures. You don't need any crap in there to covered over with primer and paint. It may come back to haunt you. You can fill some of these flaws with common solder. Make sure that is really clean of all flux, again, before you paint or skim with body filler. I actually go over my welds with lead to make sure they are sealed tight.