ignition problems?

Everybody seems to have problems with Porsches at idle,at high rpm,at low rpm,in the wet but not in the dry so let me throw in my two cents.All vehicles run the same way as far as ignitions are concerned,and up north we have tough weather conditions.the problems
we have are that its either super dry in the winter/spring with extreme changes to really wet or high humidity conditions at anytime.The distributor cap &rotor,if old& carboned will short out and burn on the high humidity (negative ions&ozone)inside the distributor leaving the engine stumbling on five or less cylinders.Opening up old cap shows a burnt rotor (ozone producer with extra gap),heavy carbon deposits on the cap electrodes,and brown powder on cap itself.If the rotor &cap are burnt bad enough in wet conditions,it will suddenly without warning,leave you on 2 cylinders on the side of the road ,cursing at your pride & joy!Ive been there.Then owners start blaming sparkplugs,fuel injections&whatnot.There was an article in Car Craft mag on rotors caps &wires which stated that these items are extremely abused by heat,spark and by an electricial force field built up inside the cap.Especially with the high voltages on the electronic ignitions.Over time the electrical forcefield actually changes the molecular structure of the material(lines up molecules) in the cap ,causing shorts .The ozone &-ions particles,from air, spin then attach ,forming a barrier(insolater)over rotor&cap electrodes.I believe it was Jacabs electronics that wrote the article.Ford changed their caps dramatically to remedy this by pushing their cap electrodes apartand adding ribs inside plus adding a ozone vent relief vent on top of the cap.jacabs says 2yrs maximum on rotor ,distributor cap,&wires,but this article was in car craft mag,and intended for watercooled,low rpm engines!Add 150 degrees F engine temp,& double the rpm on the porsche powerplant and now where talking extra heavy duty abuse.