About once a year my key switch locks up. Yesterday I had to pop my hood and grab a can of WD40, spray it into the starter key hole (without the red straw) before I could start the car. Mind you my clients were waiting for me to lead the way to the construction site and had to come over and see what the problem was. I guess it's my way of convincing them I need a new Porsche and they will have to pay me more. Afterall they can't have an architect without decent wheels.;)

Please keep posting on this topic, very interested in a non-$400 solution.

George,
Have you tried spraying a small amount of graphite or molybendium into the ignition so it will turn easier? WD40 really doesn't lubricate, it's a water dispersant that may help "clean" up dirt/dust but I think the others may give you the lube the switch may need...

It's what I had at the time, just an emergency situation.

There was a thread on this not long ago, graphite was dismissed so was WD40. I forget what the most people agreed on.

Is there any benefit to having the power to the relay unswitched and being able to crank the motor with the ignition dead? I am having trouble thinking of a good reason to want to do that. My thought was to take a 5A switched power feed off the fuse block as my low current feed to the switch/relay.

And for the record, I have sourced all the wire, switch, relay, relay holder, fuses etc and spent about $40.

I'd suggest one of these ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157127106.jpg

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37319&doy=1m9&C=SEO&U=strat15

Exactly what I needed, thanks so much Sherwood! :)

Eric

I like their description of the toggle switch cover: "Missile Style Toggle Switch Cover". :) Good name.

Sherwood

:eek: :eek: Oh oh! The ignition switch in my '76 turns easily but "locks up" before actually engaging the starter. This happens EVERY time I start the car. I have to turn the key repeatedly from Off to On, two or three times and.... THEN it will actually go to Start and engage the starter. Starts and runs fine then but I have been wondering if it is just gonna flat refuse to engage the starter one day? Now I read that this is a $500 (WTF?!!) part?!:eek: :eek:

Guess I'd better read this starter button thread a little more closely. What have most guys done about this problem? Buy a used factory switch and hope it lasts a while? If not WD-40 or Graphite then what product and is this just a stop gap measure?...because it sounds like it is.

"Is there any benefit to having the power to the relay unswitched and being able to crank the motor with the ignition dead? I am having trouble thinking of a good reason to want to do that. My thought was to take a 5A switched power feed off the fuse block as my low current feed to the switch/relay.

And for the record, I have sourced all the wire, switch, relay, relay holder, fuses etc and spent about $40."

Gary,
Either way. It's up to you, but with the ignition OFF, you can use the remote switch to crank the engine for compression testing or to rotate the engine to a desired position (e.g. to install the distributor @TDC, to adjust valves, etc.). In addition, you're not beholden to the ignition switch to provide source voltage.

Sherwood

Fair enough.
As before, thank you very much for the help Sherwood. I am grateful.

If you have an aftermarket key, it will be brass, and weaker than an original steel key. Go to the dealer and get a proper steel key made.

Here's a picture of my switch installed. All zing, no bling....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157147300.jpg

Check out this Thread...RE: Pushbutton ignition
 

I had a ignition switch that would just stop working every once in a while, so I replaced the switch and added a starter button to the right of the wheel. There was already a hole through the dash (behind the vinyl), so I got a cheap pushbutton at the local parts house. I just turn the key on and push the button. No real reason for it, but I like the "vintage race" kind of thing, and it takes some strain off the key and switch.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157201594.jpg

Just got done installing mine and it is everything advertised. I followed Sherwoods protocol and wiring diagram, built a harness for the relay and punched one hole in the dash where there was a hole already in the metal frame and then ran all the wires. Biggest hassle was running the low voltage wire from the switch through the tunnel but even that was no big deal. Not completely sold on the dust cover on the switch, I will look for another or put in one of the flashy red flip covers but for now it is certainly anti-bling.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157425957.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157425972.jpg

Gary,
Since you located the relay in the engine compartment, it would be simple to connect another push button next to it. Use for compression testing and such. Just a suggestion. Nice job.

With the start button on the right, your LeMans-type starts will suffer slightly. :)

Sherwood

Sherwood,

Thanks.

It was a conscious decision to put it on the right. I have the hazard switch and headlights as well as mirror and sunroof switches on the left. Did not want to inadvertantly punch the starter when attempting to get to one of the other switches. On ther right, there is nothing else nearby and the hole was already there.

A second remote switch would be a cinch, I even have fused power right in front of it. Maybe later.