Wastegate leak fixed. I can see some positive pressure now, but I need to get it on the street with some load. Clutch adjusted. CV's in. I'm just about ready to put the wheels back on and try it out.

I have air leaks, I suppose. I have to turn the idle screw all the way in to get it to idle at less than 1K RPM. I hope I just knocked a vacuum tube off the back of the TB.

Just took the car for a short ride to the store. First time out of the garage in 3-1/2 months. I took the scenic route.

WOW

Pat

Cool Pat! Im guessing you fixed the fuel pump problem?

-Jeff

glad you're keeping the thread going, I want to find out about the water alcohol thing.

Fuel pump is jumped out to operate. I'll fix it this week.
The water injection still needs to be set up off the pressure switch, a matter of tweaking. Gotta fill the resorvoir with distilled water. The A/F gauge I bought doesn't work; factory says it's defective, which is very disappointing.

So, I was taking it easy, got into third up a moderate hill, and I felt the car start to pull real hard. Looked at the boost gauge, which climbed to 5 PSI. Transition to boost was pretty even and not really noticeable, as I do have the 8.5:1 SC pistons. I really can also feel the difference with those DC-15 cams.

I knew there was a good reason I put myself through all of this. Now, I have to break it in a bit before I take it to Pocono this weekend, which will be the real indicator of how it works.

Pat

HA! see! best $$ you ever spent on the car!

It's all worthwhile in the end.
And then you realize it is the best money you spent

Hold the accolades...
I put a few miles on it tonight. The acceleration is rocket-like compared to my old 161 RWHP engine. The boost was at 7 PSI on the gauge. The difference is unreal.

However, an ugly problem has arisen. The crankcase is puking oil back into the airbox. Warm engine at idle, I can see the oil vapors coming in with the lid off the airbox. Must be doing the majority of puking on boost. It was about 4-5 paper towels worth to sop it up from the airbox after I shut it off. It was leaking out of the corner of the airbox onto the fan shroud atop the #5 cylinder, and quite messy. Crankcase breather is plumbed directly into the airbox. I think it used to go into the top CIS boot. I added the pictured tee to vent the oil tank, but the puking started before I put the tee in. The breather line from the crankcase has the restrictor elbow in it. I guess I'm building some crankcase pressure.

I am open for suggestions for a remedy from the great minds of turbo science. Maybe I need to re-plumb it so that the airbox isn't the low point?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158024483.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158024647.jpg

Dump the crankcase fume into a catch tank instead of the airbox until you have everything sorted out.

I think someone on this board is using a MOBIL 1 oil bottle as a catch tank.

here are my ideas.

put an oil-air seporator in the line if you can. The SC's came with a little elbow that has mesh in it. Put that at the highpoint in the line. Check to make sure that the oil level isnt too high.. Then maybe a catch tank..

Crankcase breather should run back to the oil tank, oil tank breather to the airbox. If your running the crankcase breather to your airbox you will see a lot of oil, not vapor. I suppose if you had a tee in the crankcase breather it and ran the vapor line from the top of the tee and then to a catch can mounted high. The way it looks to me is the tee is acting like a sump holding oil in the lower bend and purging it out it's nearest escape route IE airbox. Put a tee in at the top of the oil tank connection and try running the vent from the upper part of the tee facing up, to the airbox.

Chap
I think you're right on this. I'll build a new fitting today at work with the vent to the airbox at the top of the tank fitting.
Pat

My oil tank in my 914 has to provisions for the hoses, so the crankcase breather goes to one that goes directly into the tank and the other a vent to the air box coming from the oil filler neck.

Exactly. Get rid of the T and you'll be fine with a direct line across.

the BAE support is great on this forum!

Here is a picture of what you want to do. Ignore the red AC hose in the lower part also the duct tape labels on the fuel injector lines....
The upper vinyl/rubber hose is the oil tank breather hose. Direct connect from the large nipple at the top of the filler spout over to the air box side. This has been relocated from the back of the former CIS airboot.
The lower cloth covered dark hose is the crank case breather/ventilation hose. It connects direct to the lower connector on the oil tank.
Like this, you'll be fine until you over fill with oil.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158085796.jpg

tsuter:
It has just occurred to me that I have a lower tank connection. It's probably still taped over from when I painted the tank! What a dope I can be! I'd better look when I get home.

My injector lines have the exact same duct tape numbers.

Look about three inches lower and hidden to the back more....at the base of the filler spout.

I didn't want to ask...

But I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that uses duct tape to label the injector fuel lines...one of the many uses of duct tape.

One of the burdens of being a Mensa member.