BAE Turbo Install Part 2
 

Where were we? I put the engine together, put it in, took it out, getting ready to put it back in.

References for those who may be interested:
Fuel Pump Runs Continuously
BAE Install Part 1

The fuel pump issue is what annoys me. I'm going through the wiring, the connectors are getting cleaned, and broken or questionable wires are being replaced on the CIS and engine electrical system. I keep getting continuity through almost everything...the WUR, AAV, Airflow Switch. I finally started unplugging connectors one by one. The damn Thermal Switch is the problem. It was disconnected before, both on vacuum and electrically. The WUR had an open to atmosphere port.

So, for the CIS gurus, what is the normal mode for this switch? I'm guessing it must be NC when cold. Why would this switch basically ground all of my other components? I would think it should only affect the WUR.

BTW, I made a list of the pinouts in the 14 pin connector and the 6 pin connector; another mystery solved.

Pat

Whoo hoo nice to see it solved Sherlock.

Hey Pat, post a pic of the 14 pin connector, i could use it!;)

OK, here's the 14 pin connector. They work better (I assume) without conductive crud bridging the terminals. It's down to about a 9 pin connector, since I cut out some of the useless wiring.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157330834.jpg

Spiffed up a bit waiting to go back in (it's back in since this photo this morning)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157330932.jpg

Water injection cut in switch, and the usual golf tee...no install is complete without it!! (Test port for future)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157331101.jpg

looks sweet

Thanks, Jerry
I saw a post with some photos of yours...that looks pretty good also. How much boost do you run in that 3.2?
Pat

.5 bar, or, 7 psi
is there some info somewhere about that water injection?

I'm sort of the prototype on the water injection. It works really well on supercharged Chevrolets. I'll let you know how it works out and if it's feasible for the flat-6.
Pat

thanks

Im a huge fan of water injection!

Way less crude then dumping a ton of fuel in.


That kit never looked better... good job!

lol. Thanks for the picture but what i meant was the list of the pinouts you said you made. Looks great!

-Jeff

Nick:
Thanks! This water system is pretty slick, with real nice atomization nozzles. I am hoping to get 100% phase change on the water before it gets to the combustion chambers. I did also put in a wideband A/F meter, a boost gauge, boost ontroller, and I have to find something for inlet temperature. I just got the car started, but it only ran for like 7 seconds, cause the fuel pump quit. I guess either it runs all the time or not at all! While it was running, it didn't make any of those I-left-a-12mm-socket- in-here noises.

Jeff:
Needless to say, I'll be doing some electrical troubleshooting in the near future. It mmay help you to do a search, as I believe all of the 14 pin connectors for different MY's have variations.

"real nice atomization nozzles. I am hoping to get 100% phase change on the water before it gets to the combustion chambers"

more specs please! where did you get the nozzles? how much GPH on the system? What kind of pressure are you using? when do you have it triggerd? how do you have it triggerd?

just wait till you see your CHT drop like a rock... you will love it

Lookin' good Pat.

Ed

BAE- Bob's Automotive Engineering? Sheesh. Hadn't seen a BAE since they made them for Z cars back in the 70's.

Tom

Well, I had to jump the fuel pump relay to get fuel. Car sounds pretty good, especially those DC-15 cams. Unwilling to run it up to get any boost, as the vacuum/boost gauge isn't reading. Gotta test the vacuum and boost with another gauge through the golf tee test port.

Oil is definitely not draining back to the case, it's leaking out the compressor in the turbo drain area. I don't have any pitch back to the chain cover. No other oil leaks.

The dash indicator for the directional signals are both on weakly. If I signal for a left turn, the left and right blink alternately. WTF!! I guess I have a few electrical issues...

I take it you solved the problem of gas coming out of the exhaust. What was the solution?

Fuel plunger was gakked up. I pulled the fuel distribtor off, and squirted the plunger and the insides with carb cleaner. Works great again now.

I'm thinking the female side of the 14 pin connector needs cleaning also. May have got a bit of corrosion in it when I washed out the engine compartment a couple of months ago.
Pat

Oil leak fixed. It was the steel block which carries the drain fitting and bolts to the turbo center section; it wasn't flat. I filed it down for a seeming eternity, mada a new gasket, and it stopped leaking.

The wastegate leaks. A small percentage of exhaust escapes, enough to be noisy. The turbo doesn't make any positive pressure, according to my gauge, nor can I get the wasegate to open any farther. This is a problem.

I ran the car at idle and 2K for 10-15 minutes, enought to get the oil thermostats to open. Both the internal and external stats work, which is a 50% improvement over the last time the car ran.

The electrical problems are still there.

The car sounds so much different with those DC-15 cams and the Flowmaster muffler.

" The turbo doesn't make any positive pressure, according to my gauge, nor can I get the wasegate to open any farther. This is a problem."


it wont untill you put some load on it... holding it at 5k wont move enough volume of gas to spin things up.


once its on the street and you move alot more exhaust gas(because you will be at WOT for more then an instant) it will come to life.

if you have an air compressor you can apply pressure to the waste-gate's line to verify that it opens. I had a relatively weak spring in there... maybe 4 PSI. If you still have my setup the waste-gate will dump to the outside and you will know when it opens by the sound it makes.. Any questions you can give me a call. just PM me for my number.

_Nick