Help! Weber Rebuild Issue

vntgspd · 09-21-2006, 04:10 PM

I am in the process of rebuilding my Weber IDAs. So far everything has gone per the textbook, until now...

Now, the media blaster just came by with one of the bodies (fortunately only one!) saying that the shafts were stuck. He assured me in the beginning that the media blasting would be no problem and that he did it often. Apparently he was wrong.

I have worked the shafts slightly and they do move but you can feel the media binding in the shafts. I am sure I can clean it out with continued washing and penetrating oil but I am sure that I can't get it all out so long term bushing damage is likely.

So, that leaves me with the idea that I will have to remove the throttle plates to completely clean the bushings. I figure I can score the plates and shafts to help ensure they go back in the precise location. I hesitate though because I have heard that messing with these throttle plates is taboo unless you are an expert.

What can I do to fix this?

Also, what can I do on the remaining bodies? Do the throttle shafts have to be removed to media blast or should they be masked off somehow?

I think I'm going to go throw up now...

911quest · 09-21-2006, 04:28 PM

I would think if air pressure got the media in there I would try the same to get it out oil is just going to make it harder to get it out try blowing air from The inside

911pcars · 09-21-2006, 04:54 PM

Before rebushing my Webers years ago, I removed the throttle shafts in an attempt at "fixing" the leaking shaft bushings. There's a piece of teflon tape on each end of the carb that I replaced hoping it would block air that bypassed the regular path into the engine. Didn't work, thus the trip to Eurometrix.

Here's my suggestion:
Carefully remove the throttle blade screws; keep throttle plates oriented correctly so they go back into the same hole. Squirt some ATF, kerosene or other light-bodied lube into the throttle shaft bores; maybe even submerge/soak the throttle body in ATF, then rotate/remove the shafts so the blast media has a chance to float away. It's a good sign the shafts can rotate slightly. When reinstalling the throttle blades, I'd stake the throttle plate screws in place or use blue Loctite.

What kind of media did the blaster use? Glass beads, walnut shells, al. oxide? It shouldn't be abrasive otherwise it would affect the surface finish and affect the gasket parting joints. Masking the air and fuel ports is also a good idea. Too many blind holes for junk to lurk then loosen up a few miles up the road.

Sherwood

ruf-porsche · ruf-porsche's Garage

Bring it in and have the carbs boil out in carb cleaner.

vntgspd · 09-21-2006, 06:38 PM

911quest - good idea. I did this along with liberal doses of carb cleaner and the shafts are turning very well now. It feels pretty good but there is still a very slight roughness during rotation. It is so slight that I will need to compare it to the other carb to see if it's "normal".

911pcars - I have a feeling I will have to follow your suggestion but would like a little more feedback from this board first. The shop used fine al. oxide and said they would leave the surface texture intact. The smooth areas of the carb body are still smooth so it appears that there is no problem here. I wonder if walnut shells or corn husk would foul the shafts like the al. oxide though? Either way, I have corn husk in the cabinet at work and will be doing the other throttle body myself.

ruf-porsche - LOL! Having the pros do it is the ideal situation but my budget does not permit. Sometimes that means doing things the hard way, but hopefully only once! Besides, I am short on time as I have a race next Sunday and can't send these carbs across the country.

Thanks! I'm feeling a bit better now.

ruf-porsche · ruf-porsche's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by vntgspd
ruf-porsche - LOL! Having the pros do it is the ideal situation but my budget does not permit. Sometimes that means doing things the hard way, but hopefully only once! Besides, I am short on time as I have a race next Sunday and can't send these carbs across the country.

Thanks! I'm feeling a bit better now.

In the old days when every car had a carb, the best way to clean a carb was to dump it in a solution of carb cleaner for an hour. The stuff is caustic and would clean all the dirt and lead build up (remember when gas had lead) on the carb. When my dad was a live he would have a 5 gallon bucket of that stuff around the garage for his side work. Probably not available over the counter, but who know, do a search on google for carb clean solutiion.

EDIT:

Does anyone know of a really good (read: STRONG) cleaner for carburetors??

Replies:

From Elijah:

"Gunk" brand makes a decent cleaner that comes in a gallon bucket with a wire strainer. I've found it at Advance, AutoZone, and other major chains for about $10. It's worked pretty well on carburetors I've done recently.

If that's not strong enough for you, NAPA has a 5 gallon can of stuff that will take "hair, hide, and all!" as my dear old Granddad used to say. It's MUCH stronger than the Gunk stuff, but it's also about four times the price.