Shift Coupler Questions

Hey, have you ever had to do this?

I recently bought some shift coupler bushings for my 86 911. I can remove the shift coupler from the car, and I can see the old worn bushings. How do I get the old ones out of the coupler and the new ones installed? There seems like no way to remove the cross shaft.

Any input?



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Mark Szabo
1986 911 Targa 3.2

I brought mine to the local auto shop and
they pressed the old one out for me. They
also pressed the new one in. I did not get
charged, but I wouldn't count on that.
Tim

Mark, I did that job about 15 years ago, and my memory is a little fuzzy on the disassembly process ... I didn't have any problems, or I would remember it! I used one of the two following methods:

1. Using a deep socket with an inner diameter slightly larger than the cross pin on the underside to back-up, use a large, tapered brass punch and copper-faced mallet to knock out the pin.

2. Using a large 6" bench vise, with same deep socket on one side, and a smaller, 1/4" drive socket pressing directly against the pin, slowly press out to one side. After installing the new bushings, press pin back in.


One thing I do remember is that there was some longitudinal play, maybe 1/16" to 1/8", but no vertical play in the coupler, after the new bushings were in place.


Hope this helps. Good luck!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Hmm. I don't have access to tools like that, so it looks like I'll have to just buy a new coupler. Bummer.

I wonder how much a big vise would cost? I'll pay $60 for a new coupler...I wonder how much for a big bench vise?

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Mark Szabo
1986 911 Targa 3.2

I have a thrifty but effective fix for the coupler issue. Rather than spend $60 on a new coupler, try using a curved metal shim on each side of the coupler. Shim the backside(engine side) of the thru pin on each side.
After spending too much on new couplers and shimming an existing one there is absolutely no difference. A little unconventional but as effective as the overpriced alternatives. If you want to mail it to me, I'll do it and send it back gratis. Good luck. Email me and I'll explain in more understandable terms. Good luck and ket me know.

Rich Boylan

About $40.00 for a decent vise. The good thing is that you will use it more than once.
Look for one that has a cylindrical barrel that can rotate (they are better IMHO).

Also pick up some 1" aluminum angle stock and cut (2) 6" pieces so you can place them in the vise (half of each piece will hang in the vise the other half of each will hang over the top of each jaw) You clamp the object that you are working on between the aluminum. This is useful when working on softer jobs so you don't gouge them up.

good luck!

I agree with the above...
I did it about a year ago and it wasn't that hard. Just get a vise and drive out the shaft. (by the way,...what does IHMO mean?)

In My Humble Opinion.

Sounds like a lot of work that I could solve by buying the part It's $60, but I would have as much in a bench vise and the parts themselves and no guarantee that I would actually get it right without completely b0rking the part I'm working on. I can just return the part, and buy a coupler...wish I'd known ahead of time.

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Mark Szabo
1986 911 Targa 3.2

Not so fast, Mark. Of course, your thinking is still as reasonable as it always was and I'm sure you'ee make the right decision, but a vise is a primary tool. when you get one and mount it on a firm surface, you'll wonder how you got along without one. My vise has saved me hundreds of dollars, especially in enabling me to avoid breaking parts. I use it all the time. Same with my cordless drill.

If you have more hand tools than will fit in your pocket, you should also have a vise. IMHO.

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'83 SC

Oh, Ok...

I will certainly consider it. I'm scratching my head in consternation now. Where's a good place to get a bench vise? Sears?

Dammit, my dad had one that got thrown out in a move. :/

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Mark Szabo
1986 911 Targa 3.2

You might try a well-stocked pawn shop, as many carry plenty of old, used tools, and a 30-year old vise is just about as good as a new one ... and they are pretty hard to break or damage!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

See next post . . .

[This message has been edited by Allan Broadribb (edited 06-13-2000).]

I replaced my shift coupler bushings this weekend. I followed Warrens instructions. I placed the coupler on a socket for support then I used a 6" piece of 1/2" diameter aluminum rod to drive out the pin. I felt it move on the first hit - I was so happy!

My problem is that when I tried to replace the plastic bushing just behind the shifter I couldn't get it over the shift rod. Finally, in frustration, I split the bushing to get it over the rod but that left it with a 1/4" gap and it just wouldn't work. Does anyone know if there are different sizes - I ordered the part from Pelican and specified a 70-911E.

So right now there is no bushing behind the shifter (there wasn't one before) but with the new coupler bearings the shift is indescribably better.

One thing, being smart I marked the position of the shift rod on the coupler when I took it out so I could put it back in the same position. When I replaced the coupler bushings I put the splined rod back in at 180 degrees to it's original position . . . Duh!