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Back in New England!
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Quick help with fog lamp switch
I'm trying to fix my fog lamps. I've run into what I think is potential big problem.
Background: When I bought the car, the fog lamps did not work. I replaced the bulbs and glass (passenger side was cracked open) and replaced the fuse. The fog lamps began to work. During a long night drive about five months ago I was using the fog lamps and they went out when I move the my (outside air) ventilation control lever. Strange, it was almost like moving that lever pulled a wire off of the fog lamp switch or pinched a wire that came or went to the fog lamp switch. The switch appears to work perfectly. The face lights up dimly when the running lights are on, and when I pull it (to turn on the fog lamps) it lights up brighter, but the fog lamps do not turn on (when the normal headlights or just running lights are on). The fog lamp switch that I just replaced in my car has six posts only four of which have wires connected to them. My replacement switch looks identical except it has five posts. From what I've read there are supposed to be five wires attached to the switch one per post. I tried taking some pictures, but they're not coming out too well. The four wires are blue/white, black/blue, grey/yellow and brown (my ground). From the Haynes manual's one line diagrams, it looks like I should have another gray wire. The strange thing is that the switch seems to work fine. I replaced the old switch with a new one and I'm having the same result. I'm pretty sure that I'm missing a wire some where. Since my car was updated ('78SC Targa to a '86 Carrera Cab), the person who did it, did a sloppy job. I have a bunch of free wire ends (attached to wires) behind my dash. Some are grouped, but some are individual. Can anyone give me any guidance? Thanks, Matt
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'78 RoW 911SC Targa converted to a '86-like 3.2L Cab (w/930 body & No A/C) Custom subframe integrated into AutoPower Half Cage, Euro Ride Height, Turbo Tie-Rods, WeltMeister Bump Steer Kit, Sway-Away 26mm Rear Torsion Bars, Koni Adjustable Shocks and Strut Inserts, Two Bar Rennline Strut Tower Brace, Poly Motor Mounts, WEVO Trans Mounts, Modified Conical K&N Intake, ER PB A-arm bushings and 17" CUP3 Wheels. Steve Wong Chip! |
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09-26-2006, 10:19 PM
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Back in New England!
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A few things I forgot to mention.
I have the blower motor and associated stuff removed right now so that I have access to the fog lamp switch. The new switch is giving me the same indications as the old one did. It also is only wired with the four wires. On a whime, I found a solid grey wire with the proper connector on the end of it and plugged it into the free position on the switch. Result remained the same, so I unplugged it. -Matt
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'78 RoW 911SC Targa converted to a '86-like 3.2L Cab (w/930 body & No A/C) Custom subframe integrated into AutoPower Half Cage, Euro Ride Height, Turbo Tie-Rods, WeltMeister Bump Steer Kit, Sway-Away 26mm Rear Torsion Bars, Koni Adjustable Shocks and Strut Inserts, Two Bar Rennline Strut Tower Brace, Poly Motor Mounts, WEVO Trans Mounts, Modified Conical K&N Intake, ER PB A-arm bushings and 17" CUP3 Wheels. Steve Wong Chip! |
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09-26-2006, 10:23 PM
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Back in New England!
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Answered my own thread.
Four wires is correct unless you have a Euro spec with rear fog lights. Hopefully this will help someone in the future. Bad relay.....Check it before you remove a bunch of stuff. Well atleast I know now that I have a ton of extra wires behind my dash. -Matt
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'78 RoW 911SC Targa converted to a '86-like 3.2L Cab (w/930 body & No A/C) Custom subframe integrated into AutoPower Half Cage, Euro Ride Height, Turbo Tie-Rods, WeltMeister Bump Steer Kit, Sway-Away 26mm Rear Torsion Bars, Koni Adjustable Shocks and Strut Inserts, Two Bar Rennline Strut Tower Brace, Poly Motor Mounts, WEVO Trans Mounts, Modified Conical K&N Intake, ER PB A-arm bushings and 17" CUP3 Wheels. Steve Wong Chip! |
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09-26-2006, 10:44 PM
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1978 Porsche 911 3.2L
