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I'm planning to remove my entire exhaust system next week, to fit some Schnell/GSF turbo headers, and would like some tips on how to go abouts doing this successfully, especially the heat exchangers.
I've heard nightmare stories about people snapping the nuts and requiring them to be drilled out from the heads ![]() What tools do you guys recommend I buy before attempting this project? Gas torch perhaps, to heat the nuts? I plan to soak the nuts/studs with KROIL penetrating oil overnight first. Advice appreciated ![]()
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Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition ![]() Last edited by WydRyd; 09-27-2006 at 10:59 PM.. |
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If you can leave the car sitting for a few days, spray liberally the nuts and such with a good penetrating oil. Do it several days if possible. Kroil is excellent but try several days if possible, if not then overnight.
Then slowly try to loosen the nuts. Even try to tighten them a bit, then back off slowly and with even pressure. If one is tight then get the torch out. Buy the Porsche allen wrench and use it, its worth the investment.
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PB blaster is one of the best penetrating lubricants I have used. But it would be helpful to have oxy/acetylene torch handy to give a little extra heat if needed.
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Phil 2005 GT3 Milltek Exhaust/ECU reflashed/OEM Short shift 1988 911 coupe (GP white) Turbocharged 1998 BMW 328i |
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It's almost a given you will need a torch unless these have been removed recently. I have used the torch as a preheat before applying the penetrant. If you do not have an oxy/gas torch, this may help a lot. Heat the nut to hot, not cherry red (you won/t get cherry red with a plumber's torch anyway). Then, cool it with the PB or your favorite and let the stud suck it in as it cools. Do this a few times and you can take the nuts off that day, not a week later.
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Thanks for the great tips! I feel more confident tackling this job now
![]() My heat exchangers would have been removed about 2 years ago, when I had a complete engine rebuild done. Since it's a turbo'd Carrera, I'd think these heat exchangers/nuts would have gone through a lot of stress and I hope none are already snapped ![]()
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Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition ![]() |
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I don't know if luck played into tihs or what, but I pulled my engine last weekend to tear it down and I had to remove the exhaust system completely. I purchased the Pelican tool for the barrel nuts, and I used my snap-on swivel sickets for the rest. No oil, no heating on a dead cold engine and all of them came right off with no issues at all, the tool that Pelican sells was worth every penny for doing this.
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Which tool is that, Scott?
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Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition ![]() |
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I too, would like a link to the tool you describe. |
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Allen Heat Exchanger Nut Removal Tool (8mm) PEL-TOL-P243 $24.20 http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_ENGwiz_pg3.htm#item17 It fit perfectly, and is made from one solid piece of steel, it made the removal very easy.
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I always use an Oxy/Mapp torch for exhaust nuts and other real stubborn fasteners. You can get an extremely fine point flame and heat the nut completely cherry red w/o burning everything else around. I'm not that familiar w/ the Carrera HE's, so I'm not sure how accessable the nuts are, but I wouldn't even attemp to tackle this project w/o a good torch. You need oxygen for this type of stuff.
After I heat the nuts cherry red, they spin off like butter. Worth the time everytime. And don't get me wrong, I'm also a dedicated PB Blaster fan, but it is no match for a good torch. |
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Thanks guys. I think I'll invest in that special tool and an Oxy/Mapp torch. I know I'll be doing this a few times in the future, so I might as well have the right tools for the job
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Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition ![]() |
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Would it work if you heated the engine by running the car, and then use the PB stuff. Would this work if you repeated it every day over a week or so?
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John Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance. |
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB |
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You can make your own specialty tool very easily.
Buy a 8mm hex key and cut the bend off of it. Insert the key in a 8mm 3/8 in. drive socket and you have yourself a specialty tool for the cost of one cheap hex key. ![]()
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