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performing a leak down test
some basic (I think) questions about performing a leak down test..
1) do you not burn your hands on attempting to do this? 2) do any of you use that tool that screws into he spark plug hole so you don't have to fiddle with the rubber hose and try to find the spark plug hole?  3) How do you rotate your engine without having access to the crankcase pulley? Like others, mine is behind the muffler which conveniently also has a protector plate in front of it. do you remove all that stuff to rotate your engine?
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1987 930 1956 Chevy 3100 2009 Subaru Forester 2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!) |
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10-18-2006, 03:13 PM
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1. Don't do it with the engine that hot.
2. Never tried that tool, but never had trouble with the hose. 3.The engine will rotate fairly easily with the plugs out. Use a wrench on the fan pulley and squeeze the fan belt just a little by hand. Be careful not to pinch yourself in the belt!
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Mike B. '72 911E Coupe Early "S" #1065 |
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10-18-2006, 03:39 PM
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How warm should the engine be... taking the plugs out takes some time.. will that be too cold by that time?
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1987 930 1956 Chevy 3100 2009 Subaru Forester 2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!) |
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10-18-2006, 03:46 PM
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Autodidactic user
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 1,298
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Here are two good articles that should help: Compression test vs. Cylinder leak down and Compression / leak down tester.
The best explanation I've seen is on page 46 of Bruce Anderson's book 911 Performance Handbook, 2nd Edition. Pick up a copy if you can find one.
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Please help the MFI community keep the Ultimate MFI resources thread and the Mechanical fuel injection resource index up to date. Send me a PM and I'll add your materials and suggestions.  1973 911E Targa (MFI) |
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10-18-2006, 03:48 PM
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I wouldn't remove normally tightened plugs from a hot engine out of fear of damaging the head threads. I loosen cold engine plugs and just barely snug them on. I'll let the engine somewhat get warm at idle for a few minutes then pull them all. You really can't fully warm up our engines from cold at idle but for me it's good enough.
and going against factory recommendations on the use of anti seize on spark plugs I use Loctite Graphite-50 anti seize. Most guys use copper anti seize.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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10-19-2006, 03:51 AM
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I used that tool and it works very well...makes compression tests very easy
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Sold: 1989 3.2 coupe, 112k miles |
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10-19-2006, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
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10-19-2006, 07:40 AM
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Our host sells them
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1987 930 1956 Chevy 3100 2009 Subaru Forester 2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!) |
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10-19-2006, 07:42 AM
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I bought mine from Stomski Racing along with a few other handy 911 engine tools
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10-21-2006, 07:27 AM
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Porsche
1988 Porsche Carrera coupe 3.2
