Rebuilding Front Turn Signals

domtoni · 10-24-2006, 03:53 AM

Does anyone have experience with this, given good housings?

Thanks
Dom

rouxroux · 06:39 AM

Dom, Funny you should mention this as I just did it yesterday. My '86 had a problem with the bulb not "seating" with pressure from the spring, so this is what I did. I bought a used unit from a fellow Pelican and when it came in, I took out the reflector/bulb housing unit (held in with just 1 screw). I found that the one of the little "retaining clip tabs" had broken off the rear, letting the hexagonal spring retainer plate loose. I could have repaired the end, but it was much easier to just transfer the "new used" assembly into the housing.

One reassembly tip: Take a pair of needle-nosed pliers and gently tug on the insulation of the wiring group coming through the housing. This will give you enough room to work to reattach the wires to the terminal block, THEN attach the 2 wires to the posts inside the housing. Push the wiring back through the rear of the housing and you're done. It took all of 10 minutes, and MUCH easier than replacing the entire housing as a unit. Best of luck, Craig

Dan in Pasadena · Dan in Pasadena's Garage

Rouxroux - I have a 2 or 3 goes at getting my left front signal to work. My problem is twofold: There is not enough room to get my fingers in there to reattach the wires to those tabs. I will try pulling on the insulation as you state to see if I get more "play" in there.

The second problem is the little tabs that retain the flat plate (that the bulb contacts) and the spring don't quite want to hold the spring in. I get it to hold and then right as I am putting the whole thing back into the housing the thing flys apart. Seems like I should be able to somehow get it to hold but no luck so far.

RoninLB · 10-24-2006, 08:13 AM

i had the loose bulb problem. The mechanism is a pos imo.

I removed the main housing. I was able to file 2 notches in the rear of the spring holder mechanism that was splitting apart. Then I took some small dia saftey wire and tied the whole holder together.

I guess you could use some epoxy to create a case for the spring holder, spring and bulb contacts.

Dan in Pasadena · Dan in Pasadena's Garage

RoninLB,

Do you have to remove the bumper to get the whole signal housing out?

I agree this design is not real robust. I really need to get out there and futz with it. Maybe some cleverly placed JB Weld, allowed to harden in the right spot will function as a sort of "stay" for the spring loaded bulb plate to rest against?!

rouxroux · 10-24-2006, 10:40 AM

Dan, yes, I know how frustrating it can be! I found if you attach the wires to the "terminal strip on the inner assembly first, then use the needle-nose pliers to do the final attachment to the back 2 housing contacts it's a bit easier. Yes, I was not too impressed with the way the back contact plate was mounted. Get out that JB Weld!!! I guess "a little dab'll do ya'!" Best of luck, Craig

domtoni · 10-24-2006, 12:41 PM

Thanks Guys. I bought today two new housing inserts. It includes the plastic (which are not handed) and the two lights. The set up is for U.S. lighting, so presumably these parts are made in the good old US of A.

Should get installed next week, once I and my mechanic get back.

Ciao for now.

Dom

RoninLB · 10-24-2006, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dan in Pasadena

RoninLB, Do you have to remove the bumper to get the whole signal housing out?

Maybe some cleverly placed JB Weld, allowed to harden in the right spot will function as a sort of "stay" for the spring loaded bulb plate to rest against?!

no bumper removal.

once you can see behind the unit you'll see that the spring and contact housing is a weak pos that can't stay firmly closed.

JB Weld should do it.