Engine Mounting Fixture

[North Coast Cab]

I have this fixture. It appears thatthere are four bolt that mount the fixture to the engine stand and that there are only two bolts that attach the fixture to the engine. Is that correct?

[Jeff Alton]

Correct, it will fit over two of the studs that hold the transmission to the engine. That way you can still split the case with the engine on the stand. The factory tool works the same way.

Cheers

[North Coast Cab]

Thanks. Any chance you know what size bolts those are?

[Jeff Alton]

I think off the top of my head you need 10x1.5 nuts to hold the engine to the fixture. You can just use the ones that are currently holding the transmission on too!

Cheers

[Walt Fricke]

If you are planning on splitting the case, you want to mount the right side of the engine to the fixture. If you are just doing top end work it doesn't matter. The mounting bolts are in a rectangular but not a square pattern, so you only have two mounting positions to choose from anyway.

As a bonus, if you need to work on a transmission it will bolt right up to the mount. And you can work on VW/356 engines with it as well.

You may find that one of the studs is too long for mounting. Make some kind of tubular spacer to serve as a super thick washer. Nothing tricky about any of this. With old cars that have been worked on some, sometimes what came as a stud has been replaced by a bolt, and vice versa. Both will do the job.

Walt

[cashflyer]

It that something from Pelican?
If not, where?

[North Coast Cab]

Thanks for the help. I held it up and the tranny studs will work if mounted on either the left or right side. However, on the when on the left it hits the exhaust crossover and when on the right it hits the the flywheel sensor. Should the flywheel be removed first?

And yes you can get it from Pelican.

[Walt Fricke]

Hmm - my experience is with pre-3.2 engines (2.0-3.0), so the sensor isn't an issue.

I usually take the pressure plate and flywheel off before putting the engine on the stand if I'm going to split the case. That way I can easily use air tools to remove the various bolts quickly. Ditto with the rebuild end of things, and the torque wrenching is less complicated for me.

It is nice to be able to R&R the exhaust with the engine upside down, which suggests not removing that first.

The oil pump bolts into the right case half, and since it has to go in with the IS shaft you really need to have the holder on the right side (4-6).

But someone with 3.2 experience will have to give you the real skinny here.

Walt