3.2 Rebuild Complete

Some of you may be aware that over the last 3 weeks I have been rebuilding my 3.2 motor. Got it back in and running last night. So far so good. I know it's early days (40 miles) and may be a bit premature to call the rebuild a success but I am happy. No leaks (yet), runs cooler than before, makes an awsome sound, far less 'tappy' than before and the best part...no smoke!! As expected, the original guides (especially exhaust) were extermemly worn. After rebuilding, power feels good but I have not really put my foot in it yet. Idle and very low rpms feels a bit lumpy, this may be the 964 cam grinds, or it may just need general tuning.

A few problems on the way:

Be carful when hadling fasteners around the bellhousing, I dropped the clutch slave cylinder nuts into the bellhousing which meant I had to pull the engine to retrieve it. Working on my own, I did a partial 'in frame' rebuild. I build up the long block, put in in the car and built up the ancillaries around it.

Parts came from Vertex, Zimms and Motor Meister (cams) and all in all cost about $2,000 including a new aux. thermostat, sound pad etc.

A few lessons learnt, be carful about how much torque is put on critical fasteners (rod bolts!) when they are lubed. I found Bruce Andersons book confusing here as he calls for engine lube (moly based) on the rod bolts, but makes no mention on reduction factors for the torque, Try using the factory specified torque with lube and you end up with snaped bolts..btdt. I found it easier to partially install the pistons into the bottom of the cylinder keeping the pins accessible. The whole assembly can be installed over the head studs and the pin slid through the rod small end. Chain tension is important when timing cams, without a constant chain tension, valve lift readings will be irregular, I also found the timing marks on the fan and pully to be a little out. It is better to find TDC for #1 using a dial indicator and remarking before putting the heads on.

I found the most usefull thing in preparing for the rebuild is research. The more you feel you know the inside of the motor and basic rebuild procedures the better and more confident you are that it's done right. I would not be intimidated by those who say a home rebuild can not be successfull. Knowledge is power, I learnt as much as I could before getting into it. 3 months ago I had never driven a 911 and never contemplated rebuilding the motor. Thanks to those on the board who helped me out during the build and a special thanks to Warren for sharing some of his considerable knowledge with me. Even greater thanks to my wife who went husbandless and car-less for 3 weeks.

Hey Roger, how's yours going?

[This message has been edited by beetos (edited 08-28-2000).]

Congratulations!
I will be in your boat here shortly and have been following your posts carefully.
Good luck with the break in period and keep us posted of anything more you learn!


------------------
Leland Pate

___79 SC Targa

Congrats on your rebuild!
What books/manuals did you use?

Did you do anything special for the break in of your cams? I've heard of running the engine at a fairly high RPM for a short period of time say 15 minutes, as this decreases the load on the valve train. I also did the instalation of the pistons as you did, Lee from MM recomended that I thought it worked great and was a great idea.

Thanks Guys!

The cams came from Motor Meister with cam lube, precise instructions on timing (.051") and break in procedure. Something like idle for 15 mins, 2000rpm for 10 mins, 3000rpm for 5 mins....something like that. Drop me an EM if you want the exact instructions, they are at home somewhere. I know MM have been knocked on this board but I have had excellent service from them. about $450 for 964 cam grinds and rocker set resurface.

I definately found it easier using the ring compressor to put the pistons in partially under the cylinders on the bench, and then sliding the lot over the studs. This idea just came to me after wrestling with trying to release the compressor from under the studs, glad to hear professionals do it as well! Just have to be carefull to make sure that one of the wrist pin clips is preinstalled on the correct side, leaving the other for the accessible side once the motor.


I used Bruce Andersons book for the rebuild and picked the brains of many on the BB for detailed tech info. I know the motor had never been apart before so I was sure eveything was 'std' in size. I'm amazed at the wealth of knowledge on this BB. Cannot put a price on that!




[This message has been edited by beetos (edited 08-28-2000).]