Really Really Really Rusted HE Nuts

[North Coast Cab]

Ok, the Heat Exchanger nuts are so rusted it is impssible to remove. The allen ones wn't even take the wrench and the hex nuts aren't ctagonal anymore.
So...I'm considering cutting the HE's off and then trying t split the nuts. Sound reasonable? I've been soaking with PB and applying some heat.

TIA, John

[MBEngineering]

HI get the gas axe in and get the barrel nuts red hot to remove, and try a 12mm socket on the nuts if it will fit, also get them red hot, if the 12mm socket will not fit a long chisel to split the nut and then remove with 13mm socket. to save the studs??, never had to cut up the heat exchangers yet to remove them, but what ever turns you on with a 9" disk cutter, if you do cut them post a action photo so I know how to if I ever get stuck!!.

regards mike

[North Coast Cab]

Thanks Mike. The centers of the allen bolts are rusted and round so there is no bite. The hex nuts are rusted and sort of out of shape and angled down and none of the sockets will bite them either. I don't see much of a choice.

John

[randywebb]

do the chisel thing & use a MAPP or cutting torch - you don't want to cut the exchangers if you can help it

[911quest]

get a 12 point socket that will barly fit over the barrell nut and put it on a long extension and smack it over the barrell nut with a hammer and it will get stuck on the barrell nut and give you a good bite it should come loose you can do the same with the nuts

[Hugh R]

Go to Sears and get the "bolt out" sockets advertised on TV by Bob Vila, they're sockets with internal biting teeth and they really work. Hammer the tightest one on and try and unscrew.

[pwd72s]

Originally posted by Hugh R
Go to Sears and get the "bolt out" sockets advertised on TV by Bob Vila, they're sockets with internal biting teeth and they really work. Hammer the tightest one on and try and unscrew.

+1!...grab a can of PB blaster as well.

[john walker's workshop]

i've cut a few HEs off with a sawzall and long blade. if you don't care about them, do whatever. you still will have to heat/cut/split/grind the nuts off, but you would have more access.

[Zeke]

Originally posted by Hugh R
Go to Sears and get the "bolt out" sockets advertised on TV by Bob Vila, they're sockets with internal biting teeth and they really work. Hammer the tightest one on and try and unscrew.

You have to "stage" this. You need to be able to get the socket on the nut quickly and break it loose while still red. the cool socket will unfortunately suck some of the heat off the nut, so this is sorta counter productive. But, it will work. On the Allen nuts that are round, I think the Sear deals will bite on those, too. However, if you were to be able to g your Allen wrench in there, that will be better because you can keep applying heat. If they don't move pretty easy, stop, because you're just gonna break the stud. If you don't have a lift, this won't be fun unless the motor is out. Frankly, I'd consider taking the motor out if they are that bad. It might be less labor in the long run.

[klaucke]

I think it needs to be stressed that you use a torch w/ oxygen, otherwise it will not be hot enough. For example, oxy/mapp. The nuts need to be really cherry red, or you may break a stud. I mean really red all the way around. But if you can do that, you have a good chance of getting the nuts off.

Those nut extractors from Sears will work well, but preheat the tool so as not to suck as much heat off, like Milt said.

[North Coast Cab]

Ok, I need to go out and take some pictures. The 8mm allen socket heads are completely round on the inside. I have pounded the 8mm allen and a 12pt socket to no avail. The hex heads are barely accessable with the HE there and they are not of normal shape. I swear they are longer than they are wide and the octogan has narrower sides than normal. I have beenputitng PB Blaster on these babies for two weeks while I worked on the rest of the motor. It's in a stand so I'm at a good working height. I don't see any other possible way to get to these nuts unless I cut the HE's off. I am charging the sawzall batteries. Once they are out of the way at least I'll have good access to split or cut the nuts off.
I will keep everyone posted.

JOhn

[Jeff Alton]

A dremel tool with a "snake" attatchment and a cardide cutter takes care of those. Just cut through one side of the nut, heat it and back it off. Been there done that more than once.

Cheers

[Zeke]

Good new that the motor is on a stand. I'd get the drmmel out and make shapes before the sawzall comes out.

Also, you could use a sacraficial 12 pt. in the Allens. Another thing I've done is too heat the nuts cherry red and let cool a minute. Then spray the PB on it to further cool it. That seems to let the nut suck it in. Dimple the sides of the nuts for faster heating. Anything...... but the sawzall.

[North Coast Cab]

[zotman72]

That is about the nastiest bit of corrosion I have ever seen on a HE nut. Where did this engine live, in a beach dune buggy? I would be surprised if your studs do not snap whatever you do as there can not be much uncorroded steel left. YMMV

[Zeke]

I love a challenge. I'd sandblast them if I had to. Lots of mean little wire brushes on the Dremmel. The PB, the heat, whatever. NCC, you may lose a couple studs regardless how you go. Patience.

BTW, you'd be surprised at the shape of things when they are red hot. A lot of that rust burns away. That having been said, my cat nuts and bolts were that bad and I used a cutting torch. Nothing to lose there.

[North Coast Cab]

I like a challenge too, but I really don't have the time for this one right now. The engine came out of a wrecked car with 86k on the odometer. It ran and had good comp and leakdown numbers. The problem is it was sitting outside for 2 years and everything steel has rusted badly. Everything has been cleaned, removed or replaced at this point except the exhaust. I'm putting a new set of headers on and since the Carrera HE's aren't worth much I'm not concerned about cutting them off.
So.....tomorrow I will be looking for a couple of nice long sawzall blades.

John

[911quest]

You have to love those Ohio salt trucks

[john walker's workshop]

demolition blades! twice as thick. hopefully, a battery powered saw will cut the mustard. those pipes are stainless, and they are hard on blades. get a few.

[A Quiet Boom]

I'd use the blue wrench to just burn the nuts of if it where me. This will leave enough stud sticking up to use my tool to drill the studs out. If you try to unscrew the nuts and break both studs you'll have more trouble drilling them out. Sawzall will take forever IMO since the batteries won't holdup to all that cutting. You need an corded or pneumatic sawzall for a job like that.

Option two, use a SHARP drill bit larger than the nuts and drill the nuts off. Remember when drilling steel low speed and lots of pressure on the bit.

You/ve got my number, call if you get really stuck.