Can This Bell-Housing be Repaired? Pics

carmad · 03:52 PM

Just found this damage to my RUF transmission after my accident earlier this year. Getting a replacement is probably not an option, as the casting are different than a stock 930 tranny.
It looks terminal to me, but it is just the bellhousing part that is damaged the rest of the case is fine.
I was thinking of getting it welded up with some reinforcement gussets, and see what happens.
Any expert welders have an opinion?
Thanks

klaucke · 11-20-2006, 03:52 PM

I am by no-means an expert, but I had always thought/assumed that only the nose cone was different on the RUF boxes, in order to fit the extra gear. Perhaps this is not the case, as you have indicated.

In any event, I think a component weld job would work fine. Just make sure you take it to someone very good; I've had a lot of success w/ welded engine cases. Hopefully Ben of M&K will chime in.

Superman · 11-20-2006, 03:57 PM

There are welders out there who could do this behind their back while eating a sandwich.

carmad · 11-20-2006, 03:59 PM

Klaucke
According to BA, the castings are all different than a 930 4 speed. The differential housing has a short bellhousing like the 935.

Early_S_Man · 11-20-2006, 04:00 PM

Julian,

Sounds like the time to call your insurance adjuster and agent and tell them about the 'hidden damage' you just found!

I'm sure Ruf of America can get a replacement case ... just a question of how many Cubic $$$ it will cost!

It would require complete disassembly of the transaxle just to attempt a repair, as that casting would need to be cleaned thoroughly, then preheated prior to attempting a TIG welding repair. Iffy, at best, IMHO!

Walt Fricke · 11-20-2006, 04:04 PM

I am no welding expert either, but I too have seen worse damage repaired by those who are. In this area the trick may be to keep the input shaft in the proper position relative to the four mounting holes, and to keep the mounting plane perpendicular to the shaft axis. As things stand it looks like they might be a little off kilter, and you want them absolutely true. But if the welder could not correct all of that, perhaps a machine shop could after the welding.

What did the back of the car look like after that hit?

Walt

carmad · 11-20-2006, 04:07 PM

I had my fill of dealing with Allstate, after the accident, bottom dwelling, scum sucking A'Holes.

carmad · 11-20-2006, 04:12 PM

Car looked like this.

Aerkuld · Aerkuld's Garage

As others have already said, a good welder that has plenty of aluminum welding experience should have no problem with this. I have seen plently of fabricated bell housings which are welded entirely from aluminium components so this shouldn't be a problem.
I would recommend that you find the end of the crack and get a nice round, smooth hole drilled there to prevent the crack from propergating. Then, get the crack dressed properly and nicely cleaned up. If the crack has spread apart at all, see if the welder can clamp the bell housing up to get the crack to close any while welding it. I would also ask if both sides of the crack can be welded as much as possible, just for a bit of extra security.
If you get a good welder you should end up with a piece that is just as strong as the original.

carmad · 11-20-2006, 04:40 PM

Sounds like it is worth a try to get it welded, will be a hell of a lot cheaper than the alternatives.
I know that to weld aluminum properly it has to be ultra clean, as oil deposits will contaminate and weaken the weld.
I guess I should start tearing it down.

tab tanner · 11-20-2006, 05:01 PM

I can weld it if you need, I'm in Ohio P.M. if you are interested

BoxxerSix · 11-20-2006, 05:06 PM

Yes that can be welded and turn out fine. If you were in NY I'd just have you bring it to me. I do this about twice a week here for a local scrap yard that salvages engines and transmissions with broken mounts or cracked bellhousings from accidents.

With a bellhousing crack that bad, you'll want to be sure that the face surface of the bellhousing where it meets the motor is planed, or at least checked for surface flatness. 90% of the time when aluminum cracks like this it stretches and warps in flat areas. If it's out of plane by a good amount, when you torque the motor back up to the tranny there is a risk that a stress crack will form along the weld transition. There's an area on your BH where the crack apears to pass near or through one of the mount holes, so just be sure that whoever does this checks it out for you when the complete the weld/metal finishing proces

Hope it all goes well, I'd hate to have to source one of those cases!

carmad · 11-20-2006, 05:22 PM

Thanks guys for the advice, I will try to find a welder here in Socal.
Should I get it welded, then take it to a machine shop to get it checked?

BoxxerSix · 11-20-2006, 06:43 PM

A good machine shop "should" be able to properly weld it as most good machine shops have the ability to properly weld cracked heads and aluminum blocks. Any deviances can just be filed out with a large flat file, but the surface should be checked from the input shaft hole.

We're not talking about a headgasket surface here as even stock aluminum bellhousings can walk a bit around the circumfrence but if you've got some major rise or pocket, especially near one of the mounting holes you'll want to have it taken care of. You may not have anything to worry about, pictures don't tell everything.

carmad · 11-20-2006, 06:46 PM

Thanks Adam, I will use the machine shop that did my heads and crank.