Need Help With 915 TRans

[Rods81SC]

OK here's my problem, kinda long story, but maybe someone can help.

Had problem shifting into 1ST and reverse, grinding noise as if clutch was not fully engaging. Read some info in the tech pages and decided to do some simple fixes. Noticed clutch cable was adjusted all the way out. OK. Replaced clutch cable and readjusted. All good for about 200 miles, then noticed that clutch pedal had alot of extra play so I re-adjusted clutch cable to remove play. While pressing pedal a few times hear a load snap as if something broke. Looks like clutch helper spring stretched. OK replaced that, Clutch pedal still on floorboard. Found that the Clutch pedal lock pin had sheared. Replaced pin and aligned cable arm with clutch pedal. So good so far. While adjusting clutch cable again noticed that the large clutch arm had no tension. Pulled on it to pull it back and it snapped rite at the cable joint.

Since i couldn't get the large arm off when changing the helper spring and i didn't see a pin in the arm any where. I removed the helper pin mount and the exhaust header to get clearance to move the helper spring. Would I need to drop the trans to fix it and could there be damage to something in the trans?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[RFR]

Sorry, I am no help but I am interested in your situation and solutions

[Rods81SC]

Well I know the large clutch arm has to be replaced. but the question is can it be done without removing the engine and trans?

[Steve@Rennsport]

Originally posted by Rods81SC
Well I know the large clutch arm has to be replaced. but the question is can it be done without removing the engine and trans?

Yessir,....its just retained by that circlip on the splines. You do not have to pull the tranny.

[Gunter]

Look at the Bentley page 301-5.
Remove the circlip on the bottom of the cross-shaft.
Slide the smaller positioning lever down, remove.
Pry the larger release lever forward to release C-spring tension.
Watch it, it'll snap.
Now you can slide/remove the larger release lever.
If it doesn't come off, soak it as best you can with penetrating oil and try again to pry the lever off.
The cross-shaft should rotate freely, if not, it is binding because of rust or damaged bearings. You can only get to the bearings/bushings with the transmission out.
Get a Bentley SC Repair Manual, you'll love it!

[Rods81SC]

Sounds good. Everything else comes off easily except for the large arm. Can pry it down about an inch. Then the long arm doesn't budge. Looks more like the rod is coming out. I'll try soaking it more in penetrating Oil and see what happens. Have the Haynes manual and a bunch of the tech articles. They helped a lot. Thanks

[Rods81SC]

Pic of damaged part. wondering if it can be welded or would it be better to just buy new part?

[Gunter]

The release lever normally rotates freely on the cross-shaft. The lever is obviously frozen to the shaft. Use penetrating oil and move it up and down on the shaft until it comes off.
You'll need a new lever and you have to make sure that it rotates freely on the shaft.
The smaller positioning lever (On the spline) is the one actuating the clutch fork.
Like Kevin says: Internally, the fork on the cross-shaft moves the release bearing against the pressure plate operating the clutch.
The release bearing slides on the guide-tube.
Unless the transmission is out, the bushings for the cross-shaft cannot be checked.
There is a reason why the lever broke; something is stuck/frozen in the clutch mechanism. If you just get a new lever, the underlying problem is still there.
Once you get the new lever, install everything and check why the lever is working so hard.

[KTL]

The cross shaft is not going to rotate freely. With the transaxle installed in the car, the shaft and release fork are engaged with the clutch release/throw out bearing. The shaft will only rotate freely by hand when you have the clutch release fork disconnected from the release bearing, thus the engine and transaxle must be separated.

Seems to me like all that breakage could be due to a release bearing, cross shaft or clutch housing that is binding and stressing the other components of the clutch actuation system? I'm guessing you will end up replacing the release bearing guide tube too.

[Gunter]

Of course, Kevin; I'll edit.
Too early and not enough coffee.

Man, a foot of snow, and the 0 deg F (-20 C) doesn't help.

Winter is soooo much fun!

[john walker's workshop]

the long arm alone should be free on the shaft. if it's free and won't slip off, then there's a pin that has to be driven out. some had the pin, but i can't remember what years. if it's not free, then it's rusted and more force is needed, like a puller or an air hammer.

[KTL]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
the long arm alone should be free on the shaft. if it's free and won't slip off, then there's a pin that has to be driven out. some had the pin, but i can't remember what years. if it's not free, then it's either rusted onto the shaft, or it's rusted AND pinned and more force is needed, like a puller or an air hammer.

JW is of course correct. I worked on a friend's 79 SC with a non-original 915 Al case trans (which I don't know from what year it came so don't use '79 as some sort of model year reference) and the big arm shaft has no pin. Another friend's '78 with an 82 trans. has the pin.

Edited my quote accordingly, John

[john walker's workshop]

edit: if it's not free, then it's either rusted onto the shaft, or it's rusted AND pinned.

[Rods81SC]

Thanks alot for the info. Here is a pic of the large arm. I am able to turn it about 1- 2 inches freely left to right. The numbers on the trans are 915/63 741 1994. The trans has been rebuilt once and only has about 60k on it. Was working pretty good until this problem. But still unable to pry it off. Doesn't seem to be a pin anywhere.

[yelcab1]

You need a puller if there is no pin.

[Gunter]

Squirt penetrating oil onto the top and wiggle the lever up/down and left/right to work it in.
If there is no pin, pry with a large screwdriver or a 2-arm puller.
If the lever was without lube for a long time, it may have worn a seat into the shaft?

[Rods81SC]

Well after spraying with wd40 and twisting and pulling on arm finally able to remove. Now to find correct arm. #'s on part are 915.116.713.5R
Having a had time trying to match up numbers.

[KTL]

That number you see is a casting number.

The actual part number you need for the long arm is 915 116 713 06

[Gunter]

Originally posted by Rods81SC
Well after spraying with wd40 and twisting and pulling on arm finally able to remove. Now to find correct arm. #'s on part are 915.116.713.5R
Having a had time trying to match up numbers.

A tip for the future: WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil, it's pretty useless. No wonder you had a hard time.
Get a real penetrating oil like "Move-it" or the PB Blaster.

Remember, even with a new arm, there is still the problem of why the arm broke.
Install the new arm with Moly-lube on the cross-shaft, adjust the C-spring, cable etc. and carefully try the clutch.
If there is a real resistance on the pedal, stop, before something breaks again.
The cross-shaft could be frozen, the guide-tube worn out.......??
These long arms don't break that easy, something isn't right in the clutch mechanism.

Keep us posted.