Power window upgrade on an Early 911

Gearbox · 12-19-2006, 09:06 PM

Does anyone know where I could get a OEM complete power window unit to upagrade a manual crank windowed 71 911? Also, has anyone have any experience with the aftermarket kits and the possiblity of incorporating the factory switches? Thanks Allan

RoninLB · 12-19-2006, 09:20 PM

you could buy used parts or go new.

i went 100% new with beeper alarm and locks. Running new wires inside the door was a pia. If I had to do it again I'd use relays for the pw.

Might as well install new rubber window wipers under the molding.

Gearbox · 12-19-2006, 09:27 PM

I looked at the SPAL kit, which claims to work better (faster?) than factory. From the picture of the kit, it seems like it drives the window crank. How well does your system work? Any binding or sticking? And what did you end up doing with the window crank holes? Thanks Allan

Jack Olsen · 12-19-2006, 09:40 PM

Find someone who already has the power doors, and swap. I'm sure there are guys on this site who would do it for the weight savings.

RoninLB · 12-19-2006, 09:51 PM

Originally posted by Gearbox

I looked at the SPAL kit, which claims to work better (faster?) than factory.
---------- My car had stock pw. I went upgraded factory regulator and lower glass edge bracket + newer bracket spec fitting.. same deal with power lock solenoid placement. I have no experience with aftermarket. Maybe install a tweeter in the hole?

member "bell" may be making trick door panels?

. How well does your system work? Any binding or sticking?
---------- like new 911 pw which isn't a big deal. New frame felt and frame adjustment allows a nice install. If I installed relays for the pw motors it'd be faster I believe.

Mysterytrain · 12-20-2006, 03:22 AM

Personally, I would use new factory parts and factory harnesses for a specific year. Go in once and do it right. You could save some money by using the old style parallel window regulators that will match up with the window lifter rail that you have mounted at the base of your window currently. In the end you will be able to get help from this board if you have a problem with a factory install..If not, you are going to be posting questions on SPAL's website. This is another one of those 'slippery slope' projects. You start with the windows..then you need new door panels..maybe an alarm..maybe new speakers and grilles, seals etc
Its on my list of projects too!

RoninLB · 12-20-2006, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mysterytrain

. This is another one of those 'slippery slope' projects.

ditto

a sheet of sound deadener on the skin, door wind silencers, door frame seals, upper door external rain seal up-grade. In for a nickel, in for a quarter.

randywebb · 11:44 AM

I'd first make sure the advantage was worth it -- there are only 2 windows and they are close together. Also you can't move elec. windows if the ignition switch is off - unlike manual ones.

Wouldn't you want to convert to the later type lifts??
The original window lift design is a parallelogram linkage that is tensioned against the coil spring and puts stress on the swaged shaft, which often breaks; the change was partly to allow the elec. motors to operate easily and not bog down.

The newer design requires new style window support channel; see UpFixing VII: 191.

Gearbox · 12-20-2006, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mysterytrain
Personally, I would use new factory parts and factory harnesses for a specific year. Go in once and do it right. You could save some money by using the old style parallel window regulators that will match up with the window lifter rail that you have mounted at the base of your window currently. In the end you will be able to get help from this board if you have a problem with a factory install..If not, you are going to be posting questions on SPAL's website. This is another one of those 'slippery slope' projects. You start with the windows..then you need new door panels..maybe an alarm..maybe new speakers and grilles, seals etc
Its on my list of projects too!

There inlies my problem. I'm all for originalilty, butI looked for "factory" set ups, complete used would be the way to go and failed. Pelican sells the OEM, but only for 74 and on and my car is a 71 and I'm not sure about fit. And it gets real expensive, between the regulators, lift rails, motors, switches, harness, etc. I just finished on a full body and interior restoration, so all the felts are new. I figure if I ever was going to install this stuff, it'll be now. I guess I grew lazy with the convience of power windows and door locks, and the mod wouldn't really hurt the car's originality or look if I got a set of OEM switches.

Quote:

Originally posted by RoninLB
a sheet of sound deadener on the skin, door wind silencers, door frame seals, upper door external rain seal up-grade. In for a nickel, in for a quarter.

Way ahead of you lol. POR15 the entire insides of the doors, Dynamat sound proofing material, and all new seals. Foregoing the door panel speakers (not OEM), but will be upgrading the center dash speaker with two 3.5" Blaupunkt 2-way 90W speakers through the factory mono Frankfurt US Blaupunkt. Hey, who listens to the radio anyway. Just kinda sad seeing this project finishing up. Maybe a set of pressure fed tensioners, and while I'm in there, upgrade the idler arms, and figure out the John Woods tensioner mod. And you know, this would be a good time to drop and detail the engine. Ok, I'm set for the next month or so, any other ideas? Thanks Allan

dd74 · 12-20-2006, 11:03 AM

Maybe purchase doors which already have power windows?

Gearbox · 12-20-2006, 11:06 AM

As I mentioned before, car has just been fully restored. Painting doors again would be a real pain, especially with my neighbors. I figure I could get away with one every year or so lol. But will the internals of a late door fit a 71 door shell?

Eric-325I · 12-20-2006, 11:10 AM

I'd love to dump my power windows for manual...

Eric

Gearbox · 12-20-2006, 11:26 AM

If your system works, wanna trade? My regulators are in great shape, no broken nor worn anything. Let me know, Thanks Allan

Eric-325I · 12-20-2006, 02:31 PM

You have a PM.

Thanks.

Eric

RoninLB · 12-20-2006, 02:39 PM

I used marine tinned AWG wires.

Screw factory on this one imo. The door compartment is a severe environment. Also marine is a little larger dia for same as auto.

Steven Patalano · 07-23-2020, 11:09 AM

I know this is an old thread but just installed an after market kit to upgrade my crank windows to electric on my 77 911 targa. I used a JDMSPEED New Universal Electric Power Window Lift Regulator Conversion Kit with Switches Wiring and Hardware for 2 Door. The kit works well. The directions for installation are useless but you can watch videos on line of how to install it. The kit includes almost every thing you need and cost about $65. The whole kit cost about what you would pay for a single original switch! I chose not to mount the switches onto the door panels because I didn't want to cut any holes in the vinyl in case the system didn't work well. Instead I mounted the 2 switch unit which comes with the kit on the bottom of the ash tray. The location of the switches are therefore in the middle of the car and easily reached by either front seat.You just have to drill two holes on the back of the switch mounting device to allow the wires to pass back under the dash board. On my 77 targa there were already holes in the body and another in the doors to get the power to the inside of the doors. There is a large white plastic plugin the body of the car that can easily be removed. I drilled a hole in it to pass the wires through. On the door panel I removed one of the unused plastic door plugs and replaced it with a grommet. If you don't have pre drilled holes from the factory I would seriously consider not upgrading to electric motors. You would have to remove the doors to drill the holes in an inconspicuous spot.

Installing the motorized device required drilling some holes for screws, bending some mounting brackets to fit the door, and drilling a 1.5 x 3 inch hole in the inside of the door panel to allow the motor device to to lay flat on the crank mechanism on the car.