Shock/Strut Removal. Need Help.

Paul Ferradas · 01-02-2007, 05:49 PM

Hey guys. I'm starting the process of matching up my struts. I have a Bilstein n RSR type strut (right side) and a Bilstein F4-V36-0127-HO on the other (left side). My first task is to remove the left shock and find out what type of insert so I can order the correct shock for the right side.

I pulled the tire off and the first step is to get the roll pin off. So far it hasn't budged. I'm trying to hammer it out with a hammer and tap. Does it only come out in one direction or can I try it from both sides?

Here's a pic:

randywebb · 01-02-2007, 06:00 PM

tap?

maybe you are spreading it as you go -- very imp. to not do that

use a punch that has a flat surface that will not go into the hole in the roll pin

Paul Ferradas · 01-02-2007, 06:05 PM

Ok, I just learned the difference between the two.

Can I punch it out from either side?

wcc · 01-02-2007, 06:05 PM

You can drill just enough of that pin out to take off the tension. Then you can easily remove it with you hammer and punch. Are you using an hammer and punch or hammer and tap? Don't use a tap you'll ruin it, get a punch.

EDIT: You guys are quick..... Yup a punch.

pozee · 01-02-2007, 06:05 PM

I was under the impression that you could remove the insert without removing the strut. Am I wrong? If I'm correct, then why remove the strut if you're only going to replace the insert?

Experienced with Boge - so may not apply in this case.

Just curious.

Formerly Steve Wilkinson · 01-02-2007, 06:07 PM

I'd try from the side you _haven't_ bunged up by using a nailset or whatever you tried to use...

Paul Ferradas · 01-02-2007, 06:42 PM

Thanks guys, I got the roll pin out. I took a wide enough drill bit and sawed off the drill part. I was able to punch it out with that. The last half of the roll pin I lightly tapped it out with a Tap. On to removing the top strut nut accessed through the trunk of the car.

Pozee- you don't need to remove the strut to get the insert out. I'm only removing the RSR strut. I'm just pulling the insert out of this one to check it.

wcc · 01-02-2007, 06:51 PM

Here's your chance your use your impact wrench, if you have one. There are few places it works well, and IMO this is one of them.

Paul Ferradas · 01-02-2007, 08:24 PM

I'm done working on the car tonight. It's back to work tomorrow after enjoying 4 days off.

Removing the insert was pretty straight forward. I wasn't sure whether or not I had to loosen the front sway bar to give more play to the strut assembly so I can pull it pass the fender, I loosend it anyways. The Impact wrench came in handy with a few of the bolts.

I started with a breaker bar on the nut at the top of the strut but I noticed that although the bar was turning, it wasn't loosenin the nut, it was turning the entire insert. I was able to use the impact wrench again to quickly loosen the nut with rotating the insert. How does one hold the washer from moving when I tighten it?

On to my next step..........

It took a few trys to muscle up the downforce needed for the insert to clear the top of the fender. I quickly learned that maintaining the pressure caused the insert to slowly contract. Here I'm holding the strut with zip tie's so that it doesn't stretch the brake line.

My brake pad wear sensor cable was tied on to the Bilstein strut with zip ties. Quality work there guys! sheesh! Is there a clamp housing that goes on the cable and attaches to the strut?

So here's part 1 of what I was looking for. The shock on the left is the one that I pulled out of my car. The shock on the right I got from RMG, they had a used but good condition one laying around. Since the numbers almost match up I'm guessing that the are the recripocal of one another. They are identical. So why would there be a left and a right? Are they not the same?

This came off of the end of the shock. I'm assuming it keeps the insert striaght inside the strut? Do I regrease it when I insert it back? What's the red stuff on it?

And finally. I'm trying to picture how the roll pin situates itself inside the strut. I thought I was going to see a hole through the end of the insert where the pin goes through but I think it works this way:

Sorry for all the questions guys but I'm a newbie at all this. I hope one day to learn enough so I can be on the other side of the table and help newbies just like myself.

Tomorrow I plan to take the insert out of the other side and see what that is.

HOw do I determine if an insert is still in good shape?

aigel · aigel's Garage

I would replace the inserts regardless of their looks or feel, if they have more than 50k miles or if they can not be dated. The labor is the main work, so why put something questionable back over a few hundred bucks? If you do not feel that way, generally, a real bad shock will stay compressed when you push it in and / or leak fluid.

You got it right in your comic there, that's how the roll pin holds the insert in. You also have the slit in the pin oriented the right way, away from the strut insert shaft. If you put the slit towards the shaft, it may fatigue the pin over time. Not good!

George

jevvy · 01-03-2007, 02:50 AM

nice work Paul, agree with George that you should bite the bullet and buy a matching inset and not use the old one - hope those arent expensive Ruf Wheels you are using as emergency chocks?

I used to do this with crappy wheels on crappy cars but I cant imagine being more upset than damaging my car AND my wheels should the car slip off the jacks/stands

jaydubya · 01-03-2007, 05:50 AM

The black thing is the bump stop. It needs to be re-installed on the new insert. You don't need to grease it.

If you car is lowered quite a bit, you might want to consider trimming the bump stop.

http://www.smartracing.net/pdfdocs/bilstein_rubbershock_front.pdf

http://www.smartracing.net/pdfdocs/bilstein_rubbershock_rear.pdf

Paul Ferradas · 01-03-2007, 08:32 PM

Jaydubya - Thanks for those illustrations. When putting the rubber stops back on, does the small hole end go in first?

Paul Ferradas · 01-03-2007, 08:36 PM

I got my insert out of the passenger side. Here's what the strut looks like:

Paul Ferradas · 01-03-2007, 08:42 PM

What's this piece called? It doesn't look healthy. Do you guys agree? It's the top mount for the strut but I'm not sure of the name:

Paul Ferradas · 01-03-2007, 08:44 PM

So before I remove my brake calipers and the strut, what am I supposed to do with the brake pedal to not leak brake fluid when I loosen up this break line?

aigel · aigel's Garage

You can tape the line shut. A vinyl glove finger and some tape will do the trick. Any other way that keeps the inside of the line clean will work as well. Key is not to let any air get in from the top (by accidentially letting gravity bleed out all the fluid).

George

Paul Ferradas · 01-03-2007, 09:12 PM

Thanks George. I'm sure I'll have to bleed my brakes anyways after this job.

aigel · aigel's Garage

Paul, absolutely, yes!

Georg

Paul Ferradas · 01-04-2007, 10:43 PM

Geeeezusss!!! THat was a PITA!!!!

I finally got one of my Tie Rods off. This had to be the hardest task so far! Getting the outer end off the strut assembly was easy, a couple of whacks with the pickle forke and it came off. Then came the inner tie rod end. Reading Waynes Book I bent the shaft downward and pulled as hard as I can and it wouldn't budge. I couldn't already see it now, it wasn't going to be easy street for me. Got on the mighty boards and learned about the lock washer that you grab a punch and hammer to. Mind you this space is tight but I was able to hook up to a groove in the washer and give it some whacks. I was not able to loosen the lock washer. It didn't budge either. I thought I had met my match. I'm quickly learning not to give up to early in this game so I persisted. When I tried turning the tie rod again by bending down the shaft it moved a bit. OK, some progress. Now the orientation of the arm was left-right instead of up-down so I could no longer get a good angle on it. I thought I was done, ready to throw in the towel again. I went into deep thought, then, while looking at the ti rod I noticed a flat groove on both side of the tie rod shaft. Out came the big pipe wrench. Locked her in to place and turned with all my might and I mean every last huff and puff that I had! It turned! These are half turns that I'm doing, take the wrench off, reposition, another half turn and so on. The lock washer was tight this entire time so each turn of the shaft took every ounce of energy that I had. I had ato take a few breaks inbetween and after finally getting it off my arms feel like the want to fall off my limbs.

I'm not looking forward to the other side! I think the key is getting that lock washer loose. I hope I have better luck on the other side.