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Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Location: dorset england
Posts: 80
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sc wont go help !!!!!!!!!!
Hi
i have an 81' sc. It just wont start. It has fuel getting to the cylinders,it has a spark, but it wont even make like ti is going to try to start. What do i do now? I am a nurse not a mechanic ! but please please help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gordon Last edited by gordoncoll; 01-20-2007 at 08:17 AM.. |
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can someone delete this for me I put it in the wrong place and It has been moved but i started the same thread in the right place so now there are two and I dont want to cause confusion. thank you. Gordon
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 3,238
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Gordon,
How do you know fuel is getting to the cylinders? Have you checked simple things like the plug wires are all connected (14 locations if you include the short one to the coil)? Most of these issues are something rather simple. Please outline what steps you have taken or had a friend/mechanic take. Thanks!
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David '83 SC Targa (sold ![]() '15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold ![]() I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Location: dorset england
Posts: 80
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sorry, it was off road for a while getting sprayed after some little B***ard scratched it, wouldnt start at paint shop.ran like a bag of spanners about a month ago, ran for a bout 2 seconds yesterday (like a big bag of spanners) now doesnt even sound like it will start, this all began about a year agoafter the cdi gave up the ghost. so I fitted an msd, whilst this was being done had ssi's fitted, hasnt really run properly since, now i keep getting jolts from the plug wires, tried a new set no difference, new rotor new cap, same but plugs out and connected, all firing with a bright white /blue spark, that much petrol going thru it was at one point leaking from the ssis but the plugs were also coming out petrol wet.! oops! Am stuck now.
Gordon Oh am in Dorset uk. |
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Registered
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Location: dorset england
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yup tried that! the injectors are getting fuel and if i hand operate them by pushing the lever in the air box up they have a good pattern maybe not atomised enough now i come to thnk about it,is that a possible problem?
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Maryland
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I'm a novice with these cars but seems to me if you have good spark, and you know you're getting fuel, it must be a timing issue.
I suppose it could be ignition timing, and/or injection timing. I'm the first to admit I don't know much about these cars, so I'm just going with my expierence with other cars. |
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Student of the obvious
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7,714
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"Bag of spanners"... that doesn't sound good. Do you have pressure fed chain tentioners? Follow the oil line that runs from behind the distributor. Does it have a "T" that runs down to the chain cover?
Turn your engine until the Z1 mark on the lower pulley lines up with the mark at the bottom of the fan housing. Now look at your rotor. Does it point to the notch on your distributor? If not, turn crankshaft 360 degrees and check again.
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Lee |
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thing is if it were ignition timing i should be able to make it run rough? if it is injection timing i dont know how to alter that but i thought the cis was contiuous with no way of altering it?
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Cracked Distributor cap?
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Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Location: dorset england
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when it ran it was backfiring like mad, the z1 mark and the notch on the rotor will just about line up with the rotor pushed right toward the left hand bank of cylinders. otherwise when it is due to fire on no 4 it is in the opposite position.
tes the tensioners are the oil fed type |
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Student of the obvious
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Phoenix
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Quote:
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Lee |
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Registered
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Location: dorset england
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yup, with the distributor slack you can move the timing backward and forward. if i push the rotor all the way anti clockwise until it cannot be moved any furthe the rotor arm points to the distributor notch when the z1 mark lines up with the notch on the fan housing,
Does that make sense cos I am confusing myself a bit! basically with the rotor line up with the notch and the z1 aligned i canonly alter the timing one way. I dont think the distributor has been out although I am beginning to suspeect !! |
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 3,238
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I'm thinking Lee is on the track here. I would verify that the timing is correct. Do not try and start her. I'm hoping smarter people will chime in shortly.
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David '83 SC Targa (sold ![]() '15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold ![]() I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back. |
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can i add that the car turns over fine with no banging or clattering in the mechanical sense. take the plugs out and there is no problem at al. you cannot hear any valve contating the piston etc and you can also feel the piston shovne air out of the head
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Student of the obvious
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7,714
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Quote:
![]() I think I'd start by relocating the distributor so that you can adjust the timing in both directions. But I have to wonder how it got where it is in the first place. You might want to inspect the gear at the base of the distributor. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_static_timing/911_static_timing.htm
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Lee |
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I cant time the thing until i can start it ! that sthe problem.!! even when it is turning over on the starter the strobe wont find a spark althought with the plugs out you can see that they all fire ! really weird.
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how do I check that the cams havae not shifted or the cam chain has snapped? i s there an easy way to do this?
Gordon |
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Somatic Negative Optimist
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Gordon:
You'll need a few books; the Bentley SC Repair Manual for sure will make you understand more. You mention that the CDI failed, what do you have now? If it was running very rough, there could be a vacuum leak like a cracked airbox. Do you have a pop-off valve? The rough "Bag of spanner noise" is not good and may be due to a tensioner failing. To check, remove the small oil lines on the chain covers and the covers. It's a little tight and requires the removal of muffler and rear tin. The dual-chains do not break but will make an awful noise when the tensioner fails and allows the chain to become slack. So, set the engine to Z1, open the cap and see if the rotor points to the notch for #1 combustion. If it is exactly opposite, you are on #4. Just turn the engine CW one turn until you are on Z1 again. Now you are on #1 combustion and the rotor points to the notch. If you need to correct slightly, do not try to turn the rotor. Instead, open the hold-down nut for the distributor and turn it to make the notch point to the rotor. This is approximate but should be good enough for the engine to start provided it doesn't have a bad vacuum leak, bad ignition parts, wrong fuel pressure. Baring major mechanical damage, it's usual either fuel or ignition related. Do you have the Bentley? What ignition system do you have? Pop-off valve leaking? Cracked airbox?
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1980 Carrerarized SC with SS 3.2, LSD & Extras. SOLD! 1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats. ![]() Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ". ![]() Last edited by Gunter; 01-22-2007 at 06:13 AM.. |
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I'm with Bill
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Scottsville Va
Posts: 24,186
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Ok lets back up here for a min. It did run until it went in for some body work. Then it ran like crap after and now it won't run at all. You by some chance don't have Platinium plugs or worse yet those iriudiam plugs in this thing do you? I have found (with my SC) that the other plugs are too cold and will allow the cylinders to load up when starting and shutting the car off without a proper warm up. You also said your timing light won't strobe, is this while you have the plugs in the car and are trying to start it? If that is the case you don't have any spark, I don't care what color it is with an open plugwire. If it won't bring up a timing light it damn sure won't fire a plug, especially one that is gas fouled.
Check your base timing (Z1 and rotor position) replace your plugs with the proper Bosch, copper plugs, and try it again. You might want to turn the car over with the fuel pump disconnected first, this will clean out the extra gas in the cylinders. Good luck and don't worry you will get it running, sometimes you just need to take a break and come back later.
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I have bosch wr3cc plugs in it. No i cannot get a timing light to strobe whilst I am turning the car over on the starter, i have seen all the plugs spark outside the engine, running from the cars distributor on their own leads. i have tried again today with no luck.
The bag of spanners noise was just me being overly horrible about the car. turing over without the plugs in the car is whisper quiet, with the plugs it makes a compression noise as any car would. today I took the cam covers off the top (where the spark plugs go)of the engine all the rockers are moving freely and the oil is squirting out of the oil bar fine. the ignition now runs off an msd 6a whiich according to the test prescribed by msd is working, I may go back to the cdi(thoughts??) i have the Bentley book which incidentally claims that the rotor arm runs CLOCKwise which I know is wrong ! Gordon Last edited by gordoncoll; 01-21-2007 at 09:27 AM.. |
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