Best 911 to clone into a 1973 RS Carrera

[luisrinsivillo]

Guys,
I've been wanting to have one of these cars since I was a kid, and I am sure I am not the only one here. The problem is they are hard to find and/or too expensive. So, my solution would be to buy a used 1970-1974 911 and converted to the 1973 911 RS Carrera. I know some of you have done this already, so can you let me know which model and year is best to do this. I don't plan to take this car to the track and it will not be a show car, what I am trying to say is that it doesn't have to be perfect. I am asking you this since I know some of you have invested an enormous amounts of time and research into this conversion and I don't want to repeat the mistakes you encountered during your project. I would like to know if there are any specific models that are easier to convert to the RS Carrera, or which models not to get. You can also talk about engine modifications or upgrades, just let me know what you consider I should know about this project. Thanks,
LRR

[70SATMan]

A 73T.

[RallyJon]

Having started with an early car based RS replica and spent a fortune in time and money making it fast and handle, if I were to do it over I'd start with an '87-89 Carrera and backdate the body only. You'll be having bodywork and paint done anyway, and once it's done you can just drive it without worrying about upgrading everything else.

The early '70's happened a long time ago, and unless you find a superb condition donor car, the project will nickle and dime you to death.

[luisrinsivillo]

RallyJon,
What parts of the car would I have to change? Front and rear bumper and rear ducktail? Any side fenders, Is that it? Does anyone know the differences in body between the '70-73 Carreras and '87-89 Carreras.
Thanks,
LRR

[Scott at Pelican Parts]

You'll have to figure a way to get the later front fender (below the headlight) to meet up with the early front bumper. I think some people make a plug that helps the procedure.

The Ultimate Backdate thread is a good one.

[dd74]

I'd start with an SC or Carrera, as you at least won't have to flare the rear fenders. TRE Motors in N. Hollywood, CA., specializes in this and have done really nice jobs.

Here's their link: http://www.tremotorsports.com/

[spooldup]

74 or 75 EURO Carrera, it already has the right motor.

[kilodawg]

Don't think it would be smart to cut up a 74 or 75 Euro Carrera. They have their own thing going now....

[curlesw]

What about a 964? Didn't TRE mods one of these to be a RS? You have a very modern and capable car with most mods already done for you...a 3.6 with a good suspension...plus air! Heck, they seem to be the best value these days.

Wayne C.

[GrantG]

Originally posted by 70SATMan
A 73T.

I agree

[spooldup]

Im in the "own thing going now" with my euro 1975!

[randywebb]

The factors to consider or to balance are:
- rust-proofing
- chassis-stiffness
- cost of cosmetic conversion
- quality of cosmetic conversion (FG front will never look exactly right or so they say)
- changes to the motor
- light wt. -- the later years will weigh a lot more tho most of that can be jettisoned

[TRE Cup]

This SC has all fiberglass front parts. what's wrong with it?

As far as weight, yes the G series 74-89 are heavier than a 73, but if you carefully remove the bumper shock mounts and install all the fiberglass, you end up with a pretty light car. Around 2200 lbs on the last one we did

[Joeaksa]

1976 and newer models should be all zinc coated, thus less chance of rust. I backdated my front tub and removed the impact bumpers front and rear and you cannot tell it from a 72/73 model unless you start looking at other parts of the car that give it away.

Find a good later model car with no rust and no accident damage, then go from there. Otherwise buy one already converted. Would possibly be cheaper and a hell of a lot easier.

[randywebb]

Dave - one would have to get up close and look to see. There is also the cost to make it look 'right'

[Joeaksa]

Originally posted by TRE Cup
This SC has all fiberglass front parts. what's wrong with it?

As far as weight, yes the G series 74-89 are heavier than a 73, but if you carefully remove the bumper shock mounts and install all the fiberglass, you end up with a pretty light car. Around 2200 lbs on the last one we did

Dave,

Did you guys line the inner front fenders with anything? I ended up putting metal early style front fenders on mine only after hearing horror stories of rock on the inside causing damage inside that later caused the paint to come off on the outer part of the fender.

Have heard that lining the inner part of the fender with old scuba suit material does the trick.

[TRE Cup]

On this car we used heavy wurth undercoating to protect from smaller rocks. If the rocks are big enough, then fiberglass or steel won't matter

Not crazy about the neoprene as it acts like a sponge. It does help with the impact better though

Whether you go fiberglass or steel, you still have the issues of making the parts fit right so the gaps are neat and uniform.
But Randy W makes a good point, even the best fiberglass fenders out there take more work than steel counterparts to fit correctly. There are always exceptions we hear about (they bolted right on, gaps were perfect out of the box, etc) but that is rare

In the end it is still less expense going with fiberglass as there is no inexpensive way yet to backdate the later front fenders (at least without a seam from the add on piece some have chosen)

[luisrinsivillo]

How much is it to replace the rubber moldings around the windshield, side and rear windows on late '70 911 models with metal moldings as in the early 911. Are these metal moldings hard to find?? Install? These moldings and front and rear bumper is what I would have to change on any late '70s and early '80s 911, in order to give it that classic 911 look from the 1973 Carrera RS.
Thanks,
LRR

[Rich76_911s]

THe chrome window trim is avaliable from our host:

Well they used to have it as of right now it is temporarily unavaliable. Part number: 901-541-911-20-OEM

Just be aware that I think the trim alone is 150 for the front window, and rear window, then you have the window trim on the door and the trim in the quarter windows.

Some SC's have chrome trim around the windows. Black was made standard in 1980.

I don't know how much the cost is. If you figure all new gaskets, and used trim maybe 4 to 500 bucks. But that is just an estimate.

Rich

[TRE Cup]

used door and rear 1/4 window trim in bright aluminum finish is usually available for around $200-500 all depending on condition and who is selling it. We only buy new front/rear window trims as used ones get so beat up from removal, sitting around, etc.

That does help complete the correct RS look when backdating a car