3.2 short-stroke observations, building and starting.

[Gunter]

Over the years, I felt that the SC would be very nice with an extra 50 horses.
I liked the concept and challenge of building an ss 3.2 keeping CIS because it's so reliable.
My existing 3.0 had been rebuild, has Mahle P/C's, runs great and I wanted to keep it.
So, I bought a running 3.0 and the necessary tools and fixtures.
Wayne's book is a must but I recommend not installing the main oil seal on the crank when mating the case-halves. Do the seal much later.
Read everything carefully; follow the procedures and check the tolerances.
I prepped the case with extra care, making a smoother chamfer on the bores for the distributor and main oil seal. I did some mild boat-tailing on the main bearing webs.

Bottom is an '82 - 3.0, top is a '78 CIS, heads ported to 39mm,
98mm Mahle cylinders, JE pistons 9.8:1 CR,
964-cams, Bosch CDI.
SSI's with M&K muffler 2in/2out.

The transmission (With LSD) was rebuild by JW. Fuchs 7's and 8's. Sport seats......Should be fun.

My procedure for starting a new engine with CIS:
9 liters of 10W30
Connect fully charged battery with charger attached.
Fire extinguisher close by. Stroboscope and 3mm Allen key handy.
Trouble light in engine compartment.
Pull out injectors and place into small glass jars.
Disconnect CDI module, ignition ON, pump will run, lift Airflow Sensor Plate (ASP).
You'll hear hissing and whistling as the CIS vents air and sprays gas into the jars.
Release the ASP and switch off ignition. Check for gas leaks in the lines.
Empty out the 6 jars, replace the jars and repeat the procedure:
Ignition ON, lift ASP for a few seconds, all 6 jars should have the same volume of gas indicating that the injectors have an equal spray.
Ignition OFF, remove jars and install injectors if they are good.
Disconnect CDI module and remove pump relay.
Build oil pressure by cranking engine 10 seconds past oil light going out.
Stop cranking. Connect CDI and replace pump relay.
The big moment: Start engine. If all is well, it should come to life with a few puffs provided the timing and mixture are close.
If WUR and AAR are good, it should rev at about 2000 RPM.
Check the oil pressure gauge immediately, it should read about 3.
Smoke is normal on a new engine; it should disappear after about 10 minutes indicating that the rings are seating.
As the RPM's come down with warm-up, tweak the mixture and timing.
I rev the engine up and down keeping it close to 3-4000 RPM for about 30 minutes.
Check for gas leaks and oil leaks.

Baring anything unforeseen, it worked out fine so far.
Still another month before driving and trying out the rebuilt transmission.
I even made a plaque for the ss 3.2.



Just a no-nonsense engine compartment; removed heater blower, cruise control and A/C.

[Scooter]

Great job Gunter. Can't wait to see it at the CanAm!

[Drago]

You know, carbs would give you better performance.

Looks great Gunter! I'll second Scooter in that I can't wait to check it out. See you at Round-Up '07.

[Gunter]

Thanks guys.
Yeah, carbs would certainly give more performance but.............they are a science in themselves.
I am quite familiar with, and like the Bosch CIS.
However, I still have my rebuilt 3.0 and who knows?
An early 911 refurbished and spruced up like Scooter is doing has always appealed to me from a technical point of view.

Drago, just because Scooter has center-stage now, let's have some details about your progress.