Oil Line Conversion

[John Phillips]

I am replacing my 2.2L engine in a 1971 911 with a 2.4L engine. (Lots of good reasons why) One issue I have come up against is that the "S" oil line from the oil cooler to the oil tank is a 26mm threaded connection on the 71 and the 2.4L has a male connector which uses a hose clamp. Is anyone aware of an adapter (supplier) that would screw onto the 26mm tank outlet and on the other end have the male end that the hose pushes onto and then clamp? Actually not sure that makes sense, but if you have come up against the problem, you know what I am talking about

[Grady Clay]

John,
Welcome to the Forum.
You will find a lot of help here.

There are a number of things from your 2.2 that you need to swap onto the new 2.4. The engine oil cooler is one. All you need are three new oil cooler O-rings.

Another is the long oil hose from the engine (under #3 cylinder) to the oil tank. The reason is the 2.4 oil pipe will interfere with the clutch cable end. Be sure to use the three hose clamps that secure the hose to the differential side cover, the starter bolt and the tin alongside the cooler. This hose jumps around a lot and will wear the mag casting and the hose if left unsecured.

Be sure and use the 2.2 clutch on the 2.4 flywheel. The splines in the disc are different and the clutch release bearing is different ID and actuation. The pressure plate is also different. (Don’t forget the ring gear.)

Is the ’71 equipped for MFI or CIS or are both engines carbureted? There are fuel and MFI/CIS control issues. Solving them is easy.

Note that the long throttle rod (trans bell-crank-to-engine) doesn’t interfere with the tin.

Has either engine been updated with an internal voltage regulator?

I want you to confirm the 14-pin connectors (2.2 & 2.4 engine side) have the same color wires in the same positions. They should interchange if original. There is too much opportunity for someone to have changed things to simply plug it in without checking.

If the 2.4 has carburetors, it will have some extra wires from the MFI/CIS. Use heat-shrink tubing over the exposed connections and tape the pigtails back to the main harness.

If original, your oil pressure and oil temperature are the same. The tach will continue to work.

If you have the transmission out, remember to re-torque the CV joint bolts after a couple hundred miles.

Best,
Grady

[John Phillips]

Thanks Grady, I have sent you an email. I was looking for an adapter because the oil cooler in the 2.4L is new and the 2.2L is no good. Thanks for the feedback on other updates.

john