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(the shotguns)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21,620
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Webers almost rebuilt; Q on initial settings
I hope to be finished rebuilding my Webers tomorrow and SHOULD have my Motoparts rebuilt distributor in today (PLEASE PLEASE MR. UPS MAN!) and i am now wondering about initial settings.
Currently i have one carb rebuild and the other partially apart (it's like that when you have a toddler and working wife) and my plan is as follows: 1-count threads showing on adjustment screws on the not yet torn down carb and duplicate these settings on the already rebuilt carb. 2-rebuild second carb using same settings (a no brainer it seems) 3-install rebuilt dizzy using mark i made when removed for timing 4-install carbs 5-Fire it up!!!! Let it idle until warm. 6-set timing (hopefully it can at least idle; i did not change idle set screws and i'm thinking if adjustment screws are close to before it should be somewhat okay) 7-proceed to carb adjustment per Wayne's book and the PMO sheet i got when i ordered the rebuild kit. 8-go for a drive and reinstall perma-grin that has been missing since i parked the car in December! Does this seem a reasonable way to proceed? My concern running it rich or lean during the adjustment process. I have never set timing or tweaked carbs before so i will probably be a bit slow at it. Thanks! Erik
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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03-24-2007, 05:23 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,384
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Thats how I have done it in the past. Seems like you have all the general ideas in place. Quick question, what was it doing when you parked it that made you want to rebuild?
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03-24-2007, 05:47 AM
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(the shotguns)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21,620
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There were some obvious leaky areas and it popped/backfired quite a bit at idle.
Interestingly i noted that the inside tops of the watershields had some residue on them and the stacks were pretty yellowed up. I wonder if this is the 'spitting' i have read about and also wonder if i need to change my idle jets to compensate.
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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03-24-2007, 05:50 AM
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Regis turd ab user
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tacomatose, Wa USA
Posts: 1,489
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Sounds like it was gasping for air. Do you have a synchrometer, and what type of exhaust?
David |
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03-24-2007, 09:02 AM
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(the shotguns)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21,620
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Do have a syncrometer.
Exhaust is a Leistritz.
__________________
***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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03-24-2007, 09:16 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
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You have two projects here: rebuild carbs and replace distributor. If there's a glitch in starting/running the engine, you have to diagnose two systems to narrow down what system is the source of the problem. I suggest rebuilding the carbs first, run the engine, tune the carbs, etc., then the distributor, or vice-versa.
Once the fuel system is adjusted, replace the distributor. At idle, the engine doesn't care what kind of distributor is installed nor the off-idle timing curve. My $.02 Sherwood |
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03-24-2007, 03:10 PM
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