Jacking Points ???

Is the torsion bar a good/safe place to place jack stands???



------------------
jevose
82 911 SC

Yes. Lift car via jack at sump with particle board or heavy protective that can crush to conform. Place 'jacks under (what I call) Frankenstein ears just forward of wheels.

Interestingly, when I do this, I can jack the whole front of the car from one side of the car. I put my 4x4 inch slotted block on the car just aft of the front wheel; at the seam, jack it up, and the whole front end rises. Jacks placed just inboard of the front wheel well, slightly back finished the job. Rock car to check for stability. If, as you lift and settle the front end, the rear 'jacks do not touch the ground at all points (they have shifted), lift the rear end again and let the rear 'jacks resettle correctly (happened to me only once, but...).

jw

Put your wheels under the car at all four points---if the car falls, it falls on the wheels and not your chest.

jevose,

If you mean the rear torsion bar tubes, yes, just inboard of the end castings! At the front, just behind the front skids at the forward mounting point of the control arm.

The proper way to lift the car is with a jack plate in the factory jack receptacle!
------------------
Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 01-18-2001).]

Warren:

That's exactly what vexes me on this one---lifting the car via an alloy pan just gives me the shivers. Yet I see it endorsed everywhere. I swear I didn't have half the oil problem from my cam towers prior to lifting the car via the sump the first time.

The problem I have with the factory wedge in the side mount for a floor jack is how this flexes the car once you let it down on the 'jackstand. If you intend to only lift the rear end, how does the car sit with one jackstand under one of the rear corners with the rest of the car on the ground as you run to the other side to lift it? At least if I lift the rear via sump I know that when it settles the car is not flexed heavily.

Am I just overthinking this? Is there really nothing to worry about via the side mount jacking and the car flex on one 'jackstand?

Jw

Would all of this discussion apply to my C4 as well?

------------------
Louis
'91 C4

jdub, this flex is not hurting your car. Road forces are MUCH greater. But I agree that if its the rear you want to lift, lift it all at once.

I am absolutely convinved that the factory recommended, and many, many people use, the lip cast into the engine case in the center, just behind the sump plate. I believe it would be a mistake to us a point forward of the sump plate (closer to the tranny). Instead, there is a ridge, about six inches long, between the sump plate and the rear edge of the engine case (toward the rear bumper). Using a block of wood for protection and making sure you don't touch the sump plate, a floor jack can safely and securely lift the entire rear end at this point. Then come the jack stands. And then comes the wheels or wooden block that will catch the car if it falls. Cars do fall on people in their garages, and it usually kills them.

The front of my car is so light, if I jack up one corner far enough, the other side comes up too. With jackstands under the rear torsion tubes, I wonder if I could lift the front by hand. Seriously.

------------------
'83 SC

Well I wouldn't doubt you could--I mean, they DO call you Superman ;>

I have been lifting right square under the sump plate/bolt. I will check the area closer and see what you mean by the cast ridges.

Jdub

How does everyone feel about the sheet metal where the engine mounts to the rear cross member? This seem like a logical place to me and seems like it puts less stress on the engine.