Another power window problem - help pls

[hobieboy]

I tried the search but didn't find anything similar...

My passenger side window will not slide down. I opened the door panel, motor & mechanism is working 100% but the glass separated from the scissor mechanism.

If I lower the window, the scissor mechanism will lower to the bottom of the door, window stays up & closed. Manually force the window down, slide it back into the channel. Close the window by pushing the switch up. Window closes. When I try to open again, same thing - it separates.

What can I adjust to fix this? It seems that the window is misaligned in the door frame? How does the "bottom channel" grabs onto the window? Is it strictly by gravity (so when the mechanism falls, so does the window)?

thanks!

[Quicksilver]

The window needs to be pulled down so once it has separated from the regulator rail it acts exactly like yours.

Easy fix.
Clean the rail and the bottom of the window real good. You want to stop any rust that might have contributed to the problem. Then put a healthy quantity of RTV silicone in the groove of the rail. Position the window back in the rail and roll it back up. Make sure that the window is seated correctly in the window frame and then roll it up real tight and leave it for at least a day.

Make sure that there isn't any overflow of RTV that will drip inside of the door and make a mess.

Oh BTW, your door channel weather stripping might be worn out. It could be a good time to change it.

[hobieboy]

Thanks Wayne... so wow, the window is simply "attached" to the channel via RTV/silicone?

Its interesting that the rubber seal stayed with the scissor mechanism and its just the glass that had separated.

[MattAlpha]

Usually the most difficult part is getting the window glass out of the regulator rail when you need to do some type of repair in the door. As QuickSilver said, this is an easy fix, unless there is something wrong with your regulator rail. I would remove the glass and inspect the rail very thoroughly while you clean it. If need be, it is very easy to replace while the glass is out.

Good luck,
Matt

[mb911]

don't use RTV silicone. It has an acid that with cause rusting. Us window weld(3m product) or a ureathane. (not spelled right)

[Zeke]

Originally posted by mb911
don't use RTV silicone. It has an acid that with cause rusting. Us window weld(3m product) or a ureathane. (not spelled right)

Never heard that before. Not saying it isn't true, but people have been using silicone for years on all kinds of automotive applications. There are specific glass sealing compounds that the auto industry uses, but figure on about $12 a tube for 11 oz. If you don't want to use the silicone, the polyurethane caulk I use on residential windows is some killer stuff. Not water clean up, so beware of any mess. I use PL brand. About 4 bucks.

[hobieboy]

Thanks for the tip Ben.

Matt, the rail looks to be operating correctly so the only cleaning I was thinking is the glass, rubber seal & the channel (where the glass & rubber fit into). Do I need to remove the glass & rail? The glass is not exactly out - think I have to remove the door frame if I have to remove it?

thanks.

[mb911]

Originally posted by milt
Never heard that before. Not saying it isn't true, but people have been using silicone for years on all kinds of automotive applications. There are specific glass sealing compounds that the auto industry uses, but figure on about $12 a tube for 11 oz. If you don't want to use the silicone, the polyurethane caulk I use on residential windows is some killer stuff. Not water clean up, so beware of any mess. I use PL brand. About 4 bucks.

My family owns a dealership and spoke with the glass guys about that years ago.