Removing starter, top nut problem. Please read.

[rnln]

I read the tech article on removing the starter but I found that my car is diff from this article described.

I tried to reach or the tranny but there is no room up there. My tranny is very closed to the top chassis, even one of my finger can't pass through the area, and the tranny is way bigger than my arms can hug it.

Spent all day today under the lift and finally I gave up at almost 6pm. The bottom bolt is the allen bolt but the top one is the normal 6 points nut. I tried everything at the shop but there is nothing works. A shop's owner next to my friend's shop let me borrow a 1/2 circle wrench and still doesn't work. My short socket can go into the nut but there is no wrench can fit in the area. I used the tiny wrench with an adapter to fit into the normal socket but then the adapter make it too long to fit into the edge of the nut.

My friend suggested to partial-drop the engine but is it a must? I really don't want to drop the engine if there is another way, and I don't know how. Is there anyone successed removing the starter without partial drop the engine? Please give me a hint.

[JTL]

This is a pita, no doubt. I used a allen socket, ratched, long extension and a swivel joint-elbow socket or whatever that is called. You do have to get up close and cozy with the engine Be careful when you do get the top nut off. The starter is surprisingly heavy.

jt
-84 targa

[Fishcop]

I use a 12" extension and work across the transmission, I don't actually have to reach all the way...

[rnln]

JTL,
my top nut is not the allen. It is the normal 6 edges nut. And by feeling from my fingers, there is something like a grove on the starter housing not too far from the nut therefore the small ratched head-adapter from small to big socket-socket itself can not fit into the nut. If I use the bigger (normal size) ratched, then there is no room across.
Can the solenoid be taken off when the starter is still in the car?
It'll be on the lift again tomorrow. Anyone in SCal know wxactly what to do, who is willing to help?
Thanks a bunch.

[Fishcop]

Mine's a hex too. I use a 13mm 3/8 socket on a 12" 3/8 extension and a short and articulated handled ratchet.

No you can't take the solenoid off in situ as there is a hook arrangement internally (hard to explain, but you'll see what I mean), and you need room to manoeuvre it off.

[Larry_Ratcliff]

mines a hex too...

but taking out the two motor mount bolts and letting the engine sag an inch to an inch and a half can make this a lot easier... then you can go from the top... might want to take off the shift linkage @ the PSJ if you go that route though

[Larry_Ratcliff]

Oh and btw mini starter is a weight saver upgrade that makes it much much easier to get at in the future...

[Doug Steinel]

Let's clarify the problem. Is your problem : A) that you cannot slip a socket onto the nut because of clearance issues, or B) that you can slip the socket onto the nut but can't get the rachet onto the socket, or C) that you get the rachtet onto the socket which is on the nut, but have no room to work the rachet to loosen the nut, or, D) none of the above, or, E) all of the above?

[jester911]

I remember reading here that the G50 cars have less room than the 915. I changed my starter last year and it was a pita.

Do a search and see if you can come up with more. If I remember correctly you may need to do a partial drop.
Good luck.

[89911]

Having done this, I would recommend the partial engine drop. It's really not that hard! Just put a jack under the engine and take the weight off the tranny bolts. Remove the bolts and lower the engine and tranny about an inch or two. Place some jack stands and then get the bolt off. The G50 have the slave cylinder up on the housing and it blocks your hand from reaching around and getting it loose. Some talented guys can do it without this, but I saw no other way.

[john walker's workshop]

the trans needs to be lowered a bit after disconnecting the shift rod and removing the two trans mount bolts. better angle than lowering the engine.

[rnln]

Thanks much guys.

john walker's workshop,
I feel like your method is doable for me but may I ask how to "disconnecting the shift rod"? I assume you meant the rod at the front of the tranny (there is a boot there) which go through the tunel.

Also, after lowered the tranny a bit, how do I get the ratched into the socket since the ratched head is bigger then the space available. If I use the connector with elbow, the elbow and the socket will be longer then space availble. There is a grove toward the end of the starter which preventing me from inserting the elbow into the socket. Will lowering the engine about an inch or two will allow me to use an open wrench?

Will lower the engine be as easy as take off the 2 mounting bolts at the engine of the engine and lower it about an inch or 2? Is there anything else involve, such as wires/cables/hose/etc?

Doug Steinel,
(B) is best described.
The 6 points socket can go into the nut but the ratched can not go into the socket because the nut is too closed to the starter housing and the "ratched head" is bigger then available room.
I then used a tiny ratched (1/4"?) sot he head of the ratched can be really small and used an adapter to connect between the 1/4" ratched and the socket, now this makes the wholething longer and also can't go in because the ratched hit the grove closed to the end of the starter housing.

Anyone has closed up pictures of the starter, at the top view?

[Doug Steinel]

Have you tried to add long extensions after the socket so that your rachet hooks up beyond the transmission? That is what I and many people responding to your question have successfully done. I have removed my starter numerous times doing it that way. It is a PITA, but not as much of a PITA as lowering the transmission would prove to be.

Good luck. Think of how good you will feel when you have that starter in your hands. You will want to wrap your fingers around its neck and squeeze.