SWB 911R...the beginning

[74cookiecutter]

Great project!
subscribed

[Dans71T]

That project gives me hope

[randywebb]

That might mean the prices would shoot way up - I dunno.

For sure, he should send out a message that says "I don't serve fast food." My work takes a long time but it is worth waiting for.

Or something like that.

[rennch]

If I may...

It's not about the time it takes as it is the lack of communication. If he said "Hey, it's going to be two weeks before I can ship your order", I think it would make a lot of people happy.

[speedo]

the nasty front suspension pan....


And now you don't...



This was a sorry old repair...


I drilled ....
and drilled

and drilled


Gotta keep the little things going...so The pedal cluster is painted ,rebushed and reassembled.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads10/newt1181180637.jpg
A-arms and rear bananas are going to the sandblaster and then to be powder coated. All the suspension bushings are ordered . I found adapters that will enable me to run carrera rear brakes and rotors using the stock control arms. Axles have been updated at some point to six bolt, they will be disassembled,inspected and cleaned up then packed with grease and reassembled with new rubber.

Anybody have any larger diameter through the body charlie bar shafts? I could go aftermarket, but this will be a street car and I'd like to use the original sway bars up front if possible. I also need to decide if I am going to run rear sway bars as this is the time to get the brackets welded on.

I have 22mm torsion bars for the front, and 26mm tbars for the rear. Ideally, I would like to have 21 and 26s or 22 and 27s. So anybody want to swap either the 22s for 21s...or the 26s for 27s?

Here is the 76 "orange menace" w a 3.0

This car doesn't do speed bumps.

[SCWDP911]

What size cookies are those?

[AvonGil]

[Doug&Julie]

Originally posted by v8_ranch
What size cookies are those?

Look like 15x7. They only came in two sizes...15x6 and 15x7, so they must be 7s.

[SCWDP911]

I thought the lips looked deeper, but maybe it was the angle

[Doug&Julie]

..and the very narrow sidewalls (for 15" wheels anyway). Of course I could be wrong...

[rennch]

Well, I had a chance to stop by and see the post-sandblasted beast today.

Wow.

That is a very ambitious project. I'm looking forward to hanging out and learning the art of some metal fabrication there because there's plenty to be done. I didn't realize a big chunk of the tunnel was gone too. That said, I've seen Lars' work, and it's going to be awesome when it's done.

The good news is, all of your sheet metal has arrived Lars! Unfortunately, mine wasn't with it like it was supposed to be. Bill at Restoration Design keeps finding new ways to disappoint. Very impressive...

Anyway, cheers to you!

[ty901]

Grady pointed me here. i've been collecting parts to do something similar for the better part of the last 4 years. my car, a '66 912 coincidently, is not nearly as rusty, but i'm not afraid of that kind of thing;

http://www.356registry.org/Members/haussler/index.html

although i don't relish the thought
it's great to just "sit back" and watch a project like this unfold

i'm not yet set on the suspension & brakes so will be interested to see what you do. the SWB rear brake adaptor here;

http://www.early911sregistry.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9572&highlight=brakes

may be overkill.
thoughts ?
again, a big thanks for letting us tag along.
cheers
jerry

[berettafan]

Originally posted by Doug&Julie
Yes, I should add that I've never heard of anybody not getting their orders from RD.

well now you have. i placed my order several months ago and finally called to cancel and gave Stoddard my business. pan from them got here in less than a week.

[rennch]

Lars, long time...what's the latest?

[speedo]

Work is proceeding at a decent pace....floors are removed, as are rockers and front suspension pan...and replacement parts are being fitted. I am also sending out suspension parts to be powder coated. The trannie...902/1 has been hot washed and is the cleanest trannie I have ever seen.Bushings and tie rods are sourced...still need 27 mm tbars for rear. I will post pics eventually with arrows and explanation. For now, I get more work done ...by just working. The ongoing docu-drama wears on me.

I am trying to finish up the 2.2 race motor, and have also helped a couple local P-head with some suspension work and another doing some PPIs. My 74 broke his wiper actuator and needed to have the wiper motor/regulator swapped out...what a pain. And I have to do another run of the block-off plates. Just found a nice pair of new 16x9s though, that will need to go into a wide project in the future...Gotta spread the love.

[speedo]

ok, ok an update....bad rockers and jack receiver...


I removed the outer rocker

Cut out jack receiver and reinforcement

I will need to replace the doubler area behind the jack receiver

Temporary fit of outer rocker

Here is a problem area at the bottom of the smugglers box where the cross member mounts as well as the steering rack cover
Cut out bad steel
and using old steel cross member as a guide, replacement part is fitted

Rusty front suspension pan drilled for removal
removed ...but not as easy as it looks
bad piece of metal now excorcized from car
And temporary fitting of new pan

I will fit all replacement panels and then have a weld-a -thon and get everything welded in.
See ya

[rennch]

Hey Lars,

I notice from the pics that your inner rocker has some cancer as well. Are you planning on removing and replacing it, or are you just going to do a patch?

[SCWDP911]

awesome work Lars!

[speedo]

Originally posted by emptyo
Hey Lars,

I notice from the pics that your inner rocker has some cancer as well. Are you planning on removing and replacing it, or are you just going to do a patch?

Anything rotten gets repaired or replaced. Size of the rotten determines whether or not it gets a repair or replacement. For the doubler behind the jack receiver, there is no replacement patch that is available so it needs to be fabricated. It is essentially an overlap over the rear of the inner rocker. It is essential that this area is treated as a "doubled area" and that not just the inner rocker is fixed. This point is critical because it ties the jack point, the floor, the door sill (longitudinal) and the latch post of the door and the inner and outer rocker together. Most non- Porsche shops don't understand how the car is constructed in this area and their repairs are surface repairs that are "hack jobs" that involve brazing and bondo.

Mike, I'm not sure what area you are addressing....the gaping rectangular hole where there is no inner rocker because it was removed when I took out the jack receiver and reinforcement, or the periodic holes along the inner rocker that resulted from my separating the spot welds joining the outer... to the inner rocker. Even pin holes can be big problems if you can't see the other side of the steel.
Rule of thumb...cut away the bad steel till you find good steel. If it is still small enough to patch, then treat it and close it up correctly. But before you close the panel up, get into the cavity with a mirror and look at the back side of the panel you are fixing...chances are that you didn't get all the rust. If you continually blow holes while welding up small rust holes, you are trying to weld the back side of rusty steel and you will fill the cavity with welding wire for future generations to find, and it will be a bad repair. You can't weld rusty thin steel even if it has been POR15'd....or I should say even if it has been POR 15'd. All closed up cavities should at least be treated to weld through primer first.

later...

[speedo]

Done with the racecar for a while, engine is run in, carbs dialed in, and major 5hr head tightening, rocker arm tightening and valve adjust done. The little 2.2 motor runs great. So no excuses not to dive back in to the welding.

I cut out the seatbelt attach points in the rear inside quarter panel and welded in a cover plate. That was not the best place for that attachment. I'll utilize later retractable units mounted to the door pillar.

Closed up the drivers side rocker...inside and out. New jack receiver, doubler plate and patche a couple holes in the reinforcement plate behind the door lock post.





And now to close it all up...


Time to attack the passenger side....first get rid of the bad and expose the area . Next, repair the weak steel behind the jack plate. I double this area up to reinforce the jack point


Then install the new jack receiver and reinforcement plate



I had a friend come up today that needed some welding on his fuel safe...and in the process, I used both all my welding wire and ran out of gas. No big deal, I took the chance to do a lot of prep -cut and fitting. Here is the floor in preliminary stages of being fitted.



This is going to take many hours to fit correctly and there are areas on the passenger side of the tunnel-floor where the steel vertical attach points are gone and I will need to fit and recreate the right side of the tunnel and the inner passenger longitudinal. Steel is all made up in 4 ft strips 2 inches with a 1/2 inch flange.

Out of wire and out of gas and tomorrow is Sunday...so I get to do more fitting.

Later

Speedo