clock fix if anybody is interested
 

Kind of remember reading that a lot of clocks aren't working, as mine wasn't for 10 years till I told myself its already not working so I took it apart and fixed my clock in about 45 min total on a 73, very easy and quick if anybody is interested I'll post pics and instructions

Great ! please do.

Toby, my clock works but white second hand does not. Any ideas?

Thanks!

Hi

Yep please do , I'm also interested in your fix


Fanof

Oops....a search on this subject indicates white hand is not a second hand - it is an elapsed time marker (which explains why I can move it manually). Guess my clock working properly.:rolleyes:

well first i took out the clock, then the three little nuts on the back one has a lock on it I just broke that little piece so the nut could come off, then there are three more nuts on the inside back took those off. Basically its a wind up clock that rewinds every 20 sec or so with a magnet on a spring and a set of points that gives it power to wind. All that was broken on mine was the lead from the power in to the coil. Just tinned the points, soldered on a piece of metal from a resister and clipped it. resprung the little clicker when putting it back together and tick tick first two picks are were the wire was gone next two with resister soldered on. No pics of clipping it but you can figure that out and last two clock jumpered on battery and moving. Also in near the middle of the back a little to the right and up is a adjuster in case its running slow or fast and my second hand dosn't move but the clock moves. Haven't figured that one out yet Hope this helps some of yahttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1179832394.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1179832421.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1179832446.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1179832496.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1179832519.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1179832543.jpg

makes sense on the white hand now i don't have to worry about it thanks

Toby,

Great fix! Thanks for the pics.

Now I just gotta figure out how to keep my clock from becoming all blurry once I do the repair! ;)

Randy

The point you soldered is basically meant to be a fuse. They originally used a low temp solder so that if it got too hot it would pop open. If you use standard solder, you run the risk of melting your clock. I put a really small diode in instead as I couldn't find the low temp solder.

I seem to be able to blow up small diodes with enough current so I thought it would be a good substitute for a fuse.

Thanks, I too was wondering why the second hand (lil white hand) was not moving

Just too phreaking simple:p

Thanks for the heads up on the low temp solder, think i'll leave the metal from the resister with reg solder and just put a .75 amp in line fuse before the clock. Maybe make it easier next time if it blows the fuse.

There was a guy selling a clock in classifieds about a week ago... said it worked except the second hand.

I had a clock in mine, it worked fine..., just as long as the engine was running??????? Just as soon as you turned off the car, the clock would go into "REST MODE" and not do a thing until I started the engine again. I guess it would have been a great hour meter of sorts, but you could not tell time. I picked up a used one from Oklahoma Foreign, was about $30.00 at the time. I removed the old clock, plugged in the "new" clock, it has been working perfectly ever since. I never could find out from anyone why the original one was acting like it was. I can't even remember the amount of times I took it out and checked it, but it never did work, except when the engine was running. I am very happy now that I can see what time it is, and the old one is in the box, I guess for parts if ever needed. Just my .02 on this subject.

Okay, that is really wierd. At first, I thought you must have had a switched power connection that went off when the ignition was off. But if you replaced with another clock and didn't change any wiring, how does the new one work?

The coil that pulls the winder represents an inductive load. Is it possible the battery didn't have enough voltage to kick the coil and with the engine running, the alternator did have enough? Any EEs want to speculate?

Has worked great ever since. I still have no idea what the deal was. I did not change anything other than to remove old clock and plug in "new" clock. As far as the voltage as being a problem, the car always started and never had any low battery symtoms. It is still a mystery to me???

Did I hear the words "Magnet" and "Coil"?

If someone has a coil that has actually failed, I'll bet you I can fix it.

I would need a broken clock, or at least the coil, to dissasemle and examine. Count the turns of wire, the winding pitch, and the wire guage..
Mount the Coilform to this, and wind away...
The blood of my life:

http://wolfetone.com/images/winder.jpg

are you guys kidding on the white hand?

i assumed it was a rallye inspired thing? if you pull the knob out you can move it around the face and "mark" a time. as an enduro rider from way back time and distance can reveal average speed.

you guys really are joking about the white hand right? my take may suck,,, but i had one.

T$

My clock stops every winter - like clockwork. Then when it warms up, it works fine again. It also works in winter, after the car is started or if I move the hands. Living in SoCal, so I'm not talking sub freezing temps here. I have been lazy to take it apart, but looks simple enough. Tomorrow's project.

Dave

Sounds like the old lube is gumming up in the cooler weather. Probably it just needs cleaning and new lube.

Over the years the clock's lubricant hardens and is the primary reason that the fuse link blows and the clock stops. If you are making on run again, you should clean and re oil it before repalcing the fuse link, or you might eventually get an unwanted electrical event behind your instrumnet panel...:cool: