Need quick reply about what brake fluid

[DelPico]

I have a 77 911, stock brakes. What DOT brake fluid do I use. Is there a good brand NAPA would sell? How much do I need to flush entire system?

Thanks,

David

[Por_sha911]

ATE super blue (DOT 4) is great stuff and mixes with DOT 3, 4, or 5. I don't know what your car calls for. You will need 1 liter.

[Mo_Gearhead]

My 1969 takes about 40 ounces for complete flush. Lots of "subjective" advice on BRANDS of fluid. Any, good quality brand will work. Should be changed every few years anyway (they all attract moisture).

[DelPico]

Thanks. Is that something I have to special order or do most cars places have it?

Thanks,

David

[Por_sha911]

Call your local FLAPS and ask if they stock it. They can also look up what fluid your car calls for. Do a search and you will get a lot of opinions on many great brands. Unless you are tracking the car, all of them will work well since you are doing an entire flush.

[Quicksilver]

The first question should be, "How hard are you going to drive the car?" The important part of this is how hard is the hardest it will EVER be driven.

If you drive it like a fairly normal person or in a spirited fashion you will find that any good DOT3 fluid is just fine.

If you drive a bit harder you might want to find the Castrol DOT4 fluid that is available everywhere.

If you go into the twisties and really lean on the car or ever do track events you need to get ATE Super Blue, Motul Racing 600 or RBF 600, Or Castrol SRF (bring $$ for the SRF). If you get to this point you will probably be well on your way to upgrading almost everything in the brakes.

A great resource for this is Steve@Rennsport's website: www.rennsportsystems.com

[Gunter]

Originally posted by DelPico
Thanks. Is that something I have to special order or do most cars places have it?
Thanks,
David

Any DOT 3 fluid is fine.
"Exercise" the pistons by pushing them back into the calipers and then use the pedal to push them back out 3-4 times.
Leave the old pads in for this.
If the pistons are frozen, a rebuild is in order.
No new fluid, or pads, or MC, or lines will help if the pistons are frozen.

[DelPico]

I bleed the brakes. I can now lock the wheels up so I believe I am in good shape.

Thanks everyone.

[unclebilly]

I bought ,y DOT 5.1 at a motorcylce shop. It was more expensive but more convenient that running across town to a performance shop to get Super Blue.

[Gunter]

Originally posted by DelPico
I can now lock the wheels up so I believe I am in good shape.
Thanks everyone.

"Lock the wheels up"??

If you didn't check for frozen pistons, or "exercised" the pistons in the calipers, you still have problems with friction-heat.

Lots of people don't understand the design-priciple of the inner seals or the 20 deg piston-offset on the ATE calipers.
The square seals inside the calipers cannot retract the pistons/pads away from the rotors if they are frozen. (Rusted up)

Consequently, the pads are constantly grinding against the rotors robbing you of horse power and creating unwanted heat.

Only a rebuild of the calipers solves that problem; a change of fluid is just a short-term band-aid solution.

A real brake job means all 4 wheels:
Rebuild or exchange calipers, new or turned rotors, new pads, possibly new rubber lines, new fluid.

If you don't know how many years ago any of this was done,
you'll be back.