First it took me a 1/2 day to clean up the hot oil that shot out like a firehose, bounced right off the bottom of my 5 gallon pan, back up to the underside of the engine, then back down all over the floor where I was to spend the next week adjusting the valves.

Then it took me a day to get the engine to TDC - the PO had rotated the fan housing about 30 degrees (why, how, who knows) so there was no mark to line up, so I had to figure out where the mark was and how to get it back where it belonged.

Took me another 1/2 day to get the guidance I needed to remove an oil line blocking an upper valve cover.

Wound up adjusting 3 or 4 per night using the backside method as I couldn't get them quite right............

Next time I'll have a shop do it.

The very last valve I did was like that, I'm kicking myself for not checking the rocker with the 5 mm Allen. It's going to haunt me for the next two years/ 6,000 miles. I had to work the .0025 for quite a while, I'd say it was at least as accurate as all the others.

I'd still rather do it myself and know my own car.

I would like to see the adjuster stem an allen rather than flat screwdriver slot. I think I could hold a better tolerance when tightening the nut. Backside is the way to go, I did mine yesterday and it took me half the time of the traditional way.

might be off topic, but i noticed oil is leaking between the cylinders and the case halves (not the case halves in the middle), can i tighten them up??if so, what tq spec ?

2nd Valve Adjustment
 

Well, I'm now on my second valve adjustment - the first one was awfully clattery. Good news - it took around 4 hours start to finish, and I appear to have gotten it right (or at least a lot closer) this time.

I used a combination of backside method and traditional. Backside for initial check. If it seemed close, just a tweak or two of the setting usually got it there. A few were way out, so I used the traditional method to get it close and double checked with the backside method.

I made myself a few feeler gage extension / stiffeners that really helped me a lot. Just sandwiched 1/3 to 1/2 of the blade between two thin pieces of wood (popsicle sticks would probably work too) & clamp with rubber bands. Also helpful were offset screwdrivers (the cat was in the way for the stubby on #1 & possibly #2). Had 3 beers cold in the fridge. Also, switched to a fluorescent trouble light for 100% fewer burn-related colorful metaphors. A little magnetic tray kept all the parts from spilling on the floor frequently. Should have done it this way the first time...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186084015.jpg

Now the wait for new nylocks & washers - I reused the old ones, and as predicted a few of them appear to dribble a bit.

Update...

I'm going on three weeks for my first valve job.

But then again, I'm pretty busy with family and work. So the actual time amounts to about 10 hours. I plan on finishing the job this Saturday, after a triple-check on the clearances.

At last my click-adjust tool has arrived, so I'll be doing my valves/tappets on Saturday, seems pretty straight forward and the tool appears small enough to fit. I've got the Porsche factory tool also so this time I'll be double checking all the clearances just to evaluate the tool.

Mark

Hey Capt. Carrera:

I feel your pain... however....

If you use the backside method BEFORE you undo any settings, you will likely find that a few ( many?) valves won't need adjusting at all. THEN.....for those that do, close the adjustment down until it closes completely to zero gap...and use the "click" tool to open up 3 clicks. If you don't trust the result.... use the "backside" method again on the valve you just adjusted ...as a "go-no/go" verification.

No need for the approach / detail that you showed. As to climbing up and down...well..the architecture of the car has top-side valves and some accessible from the bottom. The only help I can offer on this is that if you rotate the engine every 240 degrees ( instead of every 120 degrees) ...you at least stay on the SAME SIDE of the engine.... instead of bouncing back and forth from one bank to another.

First one: about 5 hours with the help of a friend.
Last one: 7 weeks (Broken head stud made the job more "in depth" and created a "new Clutch while you're in there" add-on).