How long did your first valve adjustment take?
 

Just got my first Porsche (88 911 coupe)... bought a bit north of NYC. Flew in, drove it home - very fun road trip.

Just did my first valve adjustment :mad:(still going through the car finding all of the things PPI didn't). After 4 hours, I still hadn't adjusted a single valve. After around 9 or 10 hours (includes lunch and a run to the hardware store for loctite to reinstall 9 valve cover studs; also 1 - 2 hours for getting stuck nuts off backed out valve cover studs, and reinstalling them) I was done. Took me 1/2 hour just to get the feeler gage under the first valve:mad::mad::mad:!

Most folks claim "easy" as the difficulty level for this task. Wayne's book says "3 hours". Am I just too mechanically disinclined to own a 911? Are folks on this board 3-armed, stalk-eyed telepathic space aliens with powerful hands that double as wrenches;)?

I've worked on cars all my life - never been quite this annoyed by routine maintenance.

Tried to upload a photo of the car, but I get a Java Script Error....

So, just curious hoe everyone else faired at their initiation....

I think it must have taken me 4-5 hours the first time. It does take a bit of "feel" to get it right. I didn't get it right the first time and ended up having to go back in and redo it. So my first time was really 8-9 hours. Now it takes me maybe an hour start to finish.

1st one took 10 hours!! I cut that time in half on the second go around.

do you have to replace the valve cover gaskets every time?

Not if you buy the silicon type. They are reusable but they require less torque.

I got lucky. Suited my fingers perfectly. The actual adjustment took less than an hour. Love to do it. I am weird that way (too).

However. Took me several hours to get all the stuff off that is blocking the access.

Some owners like the 'backside' method better. Strait feeler blade with a go-no go teqniche. I tried it but found the factory method more to my liking.

One guy said it took him 2-days, I have him beat..............2-1/2 days (12 hour days too).

In my own defense I was doing the work outside and did not want rain water in my engine and all over my tools. I battled several weather fronts.

I also spent time cleaning the inside of the engine (lots of time), power-washing the underside when done, torquing the head studs, checking a couple of rocker arms with a 5 mm allen, posting a dozen times on Pelican for more information, took a few naps (hey it was raining at the time), new spark plugs, new rotor, new cap, printing tech articles.......................and cleaning up.

I think next time I'll be able to do it all in a single 10-hour day.:cool:

I should note that I used the ultra fast and easy "backside" method, I'm assuming it would of taken me even longer doing it the traditional method.

EDIT:
I should note that my alternator replacement also took a long time because I painted part of the engine, polished the fan, cleaned the top of the engine and other things while it was opened up.

3+ months... I'm slow :(! I'm not EVEN going into my "while you're in there" story...

The first one took a week (while in winter storage), but I'll say I went through it 3x before I was convinced things were cool. I probably spend 3 hours or so on it now, assuming the car is already on jack stands for the winter.

"Took me 1/2 hour just to get the feeler gage under the first valve!"

FWIW, I found on some valves it was much easier to loosen the nut and back the elephant foot out just a bit. The feeler gauge then slid in easily and then do your adjustment.

Sounds like you are doing it the traditional method. I used the "backside" method and found roughly 1/3 of the tolerances too tight (starting out), 1/3 too wide (starting out), and 1/3 required no adjustment at all.

I hope knowing this helps you in some way and saves you time.

First time I did this, it took about 4 hours.
I VERY frustrated with it, so I decided to quit, do something else more fun and try again the next day with a fresh head and rested eyes.

The next day, it took about 2 1/2 hours.
I used a combination of the 2 methods- the "Backside Method" worked great for areas too tough to reach using the conventional procedure.
I was so glad I downloaded and printed that article.

Thanks Pelican, you made my day!

Adjusting these valves was quite a challenge compared to my beloved '71 BMW 2002.

It's best if you allow plenty of time, work slowly and methodically and actually look forward to it, rather than "trying to get it done by X-thirty".

When I took the car out for a spirited run, man, I couldn't believe the difference in sound!
Such a rush ! The car sounded and actually felt faster.
Refine your skills- you will be glad you did and you'll have a sense of accomplishment nothing else provides.

I have "passing power" now and not just a momentum machine any more.

funny... glad someone else mentions having a 71 2002. The valves for that are like "on my way out to get the paper ... I stopped and adjusted the valves". For my 89 it took me a few times and modifying the feeler to make it easier to get it in there... all the comments sound what I went through. I need to try the backside method but haven't yet.... I go for the feel of a firm slide.. no play using the .1mm or is it 0.004" feeler. I used the silicon gaskets and still have them on the top. It is easy to overtighten them... I used to use a torque wrench for all the nuts, not anymore I just go by a constant feel and angle after things "bottom" out. Have plenty of time so you don't have to rush.. it takes a bit of practice to be confident and get a consistant adjustment. The thread pitch doesn't really help the situation, what is the pitch anyway? Probably .5mm to .75mm. I should know that....

I agree with several folks here..That being:

1. The first time you attempt the job is a frustrating experience.
2. You must have the right tool and slightly modify it to the correct angle to access the valve.
3. Backing the nut off, inserting the gauge and then adjusting; will save time.
4. I rotate 120deg. at a time to allow me to adjust one side of the engine at a time.
5. go back and check before buttoning up the engine.

The caveat here is the last step (#4)...once you have done SEVERAL valve adjustments, you'll be able to complete #4 in a short peiod of time.

My first time valve job only took 1/2 an hour....................to drive it to John Walkers shop!

okay, I guess it took an hour because I had to drive back there to pick it up.......he heh.

If it's your first time then x1.75 times how ever long it should take. The reason is that you spend you ENTIRE weekend adjusting the valves. Starts up the engine and it sounds like crap because you adjusted the valves TOO loose. The "drag" should be really "DRAG".

Then it takes you another 1.5 days to readjust your valves. The second time, you work a bit faster. That is why total time is only 1.75 instead of the 2x. :)

Yes, it happened to me too.

Anyway, if you are worried that the valves are adjusted TOO tight, simply try to rock the rocker. You should feel a little/small click. If you don't then it's adjusted too tight and the elephant foot is in constant contact with the valve stem. And that is bad.

Correction...on kqw's post.. for step 4, need to rotate the engine 240 degrees ( not 120) to stay on the "same side" of the engine. If you rotate 120 degree increments, as per factory ...then you're jumping fropm one side of the engine to another.

Also...yep...use the "backside" method. much easier and it also checks if you're OK before you loosen any nuts. It gives you a "go/no go" if you need to adjust at all !!! It's in the Tech section and also look for name "Doug" and 2.7Racer.

-Wil

Thanks for the replies - I feel better now!

Good news from the adjustment was that all head stud barrel nuts were present, accounted for, and at least not loose ... didn't feel too confident re-torqueing those Dilavar studs after all I've read.

Looks like the reply section will let me upload a picture:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185554433.jpg

backside baby!