|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Hmmm... can't keep from throwing 2 more cents in.
I looked and looked, and I can't find anywhere on Loren's website any reference to him selling chips or advocating using them. It does say someplace that modification of the DME maps is not done at his shop. Not sure why he just doesn't say so in a calm manner. I actually agree with much of Loren's writings, though they could be presented in a more pleasant and clear manner for sure. Not walking in his shoes, I can't judge him (or anyone else posting), but this is a good post topic, and more calm and factual discussion of timing advance strategies is useful IMHO. Loren says 3.2's need 95 octane. I believe that's research octane. US fuel is quoted as (Research Octane + Motor Octane) / 2 (says on the pump R+M/2), and I believe 95 RON is pretty close to 90 or 91 octane as labeled on the pump. Steve W claims 3.2's were tuned for 87 octane. I can't remember where, but someplace on my 88 (or its documentation) Porsche stated 91 octane is the required fuel. Assuming the content of Steve W's website is factual, it looks like Porsche made some tuning changes on US spec 3.2 engines as well, which does indicate that at least SOME ignition map changes can be made safely. Of course, I didn't see any fuel maps - maybe the ignition map changes were accompanied by other changes as well? I'm no expert - just asking questions. As far as vacuum advance goes, I can only speak to my old Firebird. It was a 12 or 14 degree advance unit, and it came on when engine load was light. Its sole purpose is to improve emissions and fuel economy. It did not affect performance in any negative way, and I would not suggest anyone remove a vacuum advance unit from the distributor for street use. All the hot rod tuning books I read stated the same thing. That said, I recurved my F-car distributor for better throttle response (and it did make a noticeable difference below 3500 RPM). And I also had to run 93 octane gas on my stock 8.2 compression Pontiac 350 afterwards to keep it from pinging on occasion. And I adjusted the carb to run a bit rich. I would think GM left greater margins for error than Porsche, so I would be very nervous changing much on a Porsche without taking care to gain some margin elsewhere. Not sure how that is done easily except with fuel octane, and 87 to 93 is a much bigger jump than 91 to 93. I guess one could refrain from using WOT when the engine is running hot also (Steve W says his chips leave the part throttle maps unaltered I believe). We were at a wedding in Iowa recently, and my father in law had issues because the best gas he could find was 90 octane (his Lexus IS250 said 91 or 93 required). I assured him the knock sensors would take care of things... BUT, 93 octane fuel is NOT available everywhere except California. There has never been any harm in listening to both sides of an argument, as long as everyone retains the freedom of personal choice afterwards....
__________________
'88 Coupe Lagoon Green "D'ouh!" "Marge - it takes two to lie. One to lie, and one to listen" "We must not allow a Mineshaft Gap!" |
||
|
|
|
|
3.4 Bigger is better
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 1,497
|
Burgermeister,
Do a search on the "performance chips". There are hours of reading on the subject. Loren has tried to bash everything and anything to do with performance chips and especially from SteveW. Porsche themselves made changes in 88 to a more aggressive mapping,(part # ending in 58) but of course Porsche wouldn't have left anything on the table according to Loren. If you haven't been the target of Loren (I have) then you don't know how nasty he can be. He has been temporarily banned here and at Rennlist for doing this. You are watching usual behavior for him on this subject. After you have been here a while and been subjected to his ranting on this you will understand. Steve Weiner is one of the top engine builders in the country and Loren rebuilds Motronic equipment Hmm which would you trust to get advice on what to do with your engine? I know who I would trust and it isn't Loren. I have had a chip in my car since 1992 (Autothority) and most likely has been there before that (only have records back to 1992) and it was in the car at that time. I switched to a SteveW chip 4 years ago and now have a custom program chip due to going to 3.4 upgrade. I rebuilt the engine due to two broken head studs. The engine was is great shape including P&C's. I am one of those according to Loren that does not know anything even though I did the entire rebuild of my engine except for machine work myself. I have not seen any CHIPPED Motronic equipped cars that have had damage to the engines. And everything that goes wrong will get put on this board. I have run my car at the track on very hot days with no problem and I don't hesitate to take advantage of red line anytime I can. So consider the source of information and the experience that goes along with that information then make any decisions from that point.
__________________
Michael 88 911 Diamond Blue CE Carrera 3.4 HC3.4 member 2020 Honda Passport |
||
|
|
|
|
*****
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
|
I don't mean to re-open this painful thread .... but ....
... I checked my timing today (haven't done so since it was tuned up a year ago by a local shop). It looked to be around 10-12 degrees BTDC at 950 rpms. I set it back to TDC and took her for a drive. I couldn't believe the difference. IT WAS SOOOO LETHARGIC!!!!!!!!!! I know that I need to do a rebuild in the next year or so ... therefore, woud it be so terrible if I set it back to 10-12 degrees BTDC ?
__________________
82 911SC Coupe Chiffon / Chocolate 9.5 JEs, 964 Cams, SSIs, Dansk Exhaust, CIS (SOLD) |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
Posts: 21,140
|
Quote:
I've been in some desolate towns where 87 & 85 was only offered at the pump. next time i'm taking a pic
__________________
Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Newcastle, WA
Posts: 966
|
mca,
I don't think you timed it correctly. I thought I read in the past that it doesn't really matter what the timing is at idle. You want to set the timing at 5000 RPM. For my 3.0SC I was told to try 32degrees.
__________________
James 1969 911E Slate Grey 1981 911SC Wine Red 1997 911C4S Ocean Blue |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Sweden
Posts: 5,911
|
Quote:
Hmm...I fiddled a bit with Bosch Motoronic equipped with knock sensors and found out that timing isn't maxed at all. Bosch used knock sensors as extra safety-net and not as a way of finding optimum ignition timing at all loads, most beacuse knock sensors go deaf at higher revs and ignition timing is tapered into "safe area" to avoid knock where sensors cannot hear it, if car was fueled with low-octane brew. Only 100%-sure way to detect knock is to fit in-cylinder pressure senders (musho $$ and only used in factory test-cells) or use ion-detection circuitry by applying control-voltage across the spark-plug gap and checking for formation of ions (as burned mixture will start conducting in a certain manner a short moment after pre-detonation occured). Bosch didn't use ion-detection in their early Motoronic (and as far as I know, still isn't?) so there are definite "hard-stops" in software where ECU stops increasing timing even if detonation didn't occure. So there is certainly an untapped margin of ignition advance that can be explored by moving these hard-stops a bit further, depending to owners will to gamble and usage of hi-octane fuel. I believe I read a piece on this where Car & Driver measured the effect by fueling three cars with 89 and 93 octane and doing the dyno-runs. Cars were fitted with no knock-sensor, a knock sensor and ion-detection ECU respectivly. That being said, there is another side of the coin. I'll take my car as an example: I have a turbocharged 2L 4-valve pentroof engine with 9.1:1 C/R. I converted it to run on ethanol-based fuel called E85, made from 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline. It's very knock-resistent and it's higher evaporating temperature makes it cool the mixture much better (and make cold-starts much worse, but that's another story). It's very hard to make this car ping. As long as I limit thee boost, it will not ping at all, even when passing the ignition-optimum sweet spot. But such aggressive ignition mapping will also raise in-cylinder pressure (and crank/piston/rod loads accordingly) to alarming levels wich might be harmful to engine. So essentially we have many parameters to play with here, depending on engine design: 1. Compression ratio (the higher it is the greater the chances are of running into knock before hitting max BMEP) 2. Combustion chamber design (Porsche 2-valve aircooled heads are big and have quite long flame-front propagation. They also run hot, as water-coolant cannot stabilize the temperatures in same manner as in water-cooled units) 3. Fuel octane number 4. Intake air temperature and presence of forced induction. So depending on engine design, you might or might not run into one of limiting factors. I venture to say that aircooled Porsche engines, even being somewhat special and more knock-prone than later designs, can be tuned further by careful ignition re-mapping. But it will take substantially more effort, knowledge and precaution to do so compared to modern watercooled engines.
__________________
Thank you for your time, |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
I do not know the standard SC timing specs (I have a Carrera), but I can't imagine a car that runs well with timing set to TDC at idle, unless there is a silly amount of mechanical advance in the distributor. Most anything needs a wee bit of advance! Most distributor-timed cars I've worked on were in the 8 to 12 deg BTDC at idle range. As SP2 noted, also gotta check timing at high RPM's. Considering the Porsche hemi-head design, 32 to 36 degrees sounds reasonable to me. On the Detroit cars, you have to unplug the vacuum advance before checking, otherwise you get another 12 or 14 degrees of advance when checking the timing at off-idle RPM ... which of course goes away when you are actually driving and you mash the throttle. Not sure if this applies to the Porsche's.
__________________
'88 Coupe Lagoon Green "D'ouh!" "Marge - it takes two to lie. One to lie, and one to listen" "We must not allow a Mineshaft Gap!" |
||
|
|
|
|
*****
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
|
Quote:
Just going from the Bentley manual ... even within the SC years, there are different specs for timing.
__________________
82 911SC Coupe Chiffon / Chocolate 9.5 JEs, 964 Cams, SSIs, Dansk Exhaust, CIS (SOLD) |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CA
Posts: 5,876
|
You *must *verify the timing is correct at higher RPM so as to avoid damage to the engine. Whether you do it hoses disconnected or connected or both is up to you, but you MUST check the timing at higher RPM. You don't know that your distributor works correctly by timing at idle. Idle timing is a base point assuming that your distributor operates perfectly (it's supposed to give you x amount of advance so if you time it 3 deg at idle you get 3+x at speed)...
Except that any gumming up of the mechanism or degradation after 25+ years might give you less advance or too much advance... you cannot be sure until you check. I advanced my timing on my car to help a hot running condition, I thought that was brilliant until I heard pinging under load anywhere above 4000 rpm. I backed it down to factory specs quickly... The one thing I found hard to find is the advance values with the car buttoned up. I think the manual gives you an idle and 5000 rpm w/ vacuum hoses disconnected, but what I wanted to find was the same numbers with the hoses connected normally so I could tell all at once if my vacuum advance was working as advertised... Say, how many degrees at idle and 3,4, 5000 with the hoses on the distro.... |
||
|
|
|
|
*****
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
|
Thanks Greg ... I am going to check values at throughout rev range.
I only set mine back 5-7 degrees from where it was.
__________________
82 911SC Coupe Chiffon / Chocolate 9.5 JEs, 964 Cams, SSIs, Dansk Exhaust, CIS (SOLD) |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
So what does overly retarded timing cause?
__________________
Donnie Currently Porsche-less.....
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 2,350
|
"Bosch used knock sensors as extra safety-net and not as a way of finding optimum ignition timing at all loads, most beacuse knock sensors go deaf at higher revs and ignition timing is tapered into "safe area" to avoid knock where sensors cannot hear it, if car was fueled with low-octane brew."
Conflicting statement (like - a nonsequitur)! 1. "Bosch used knock sensors as extra safety-net and not as a way of finding optimum ignition timing at all loads" To max timing (safety net) - Call it what you want. 2. "knock sensors go deaf at higher revs" Hardly! Tell that to ALL the OEM auto manufacturers who use them. 3. "ignition timing is tapered into "safe area" to avoid knock where sensors cannot hear it." That's your "guess" at what happens! Do some tech reading at the library beyond what gets posted on the internet. And it's Motronic and not Motoronic.
__________________
Have Fun Loren Systems Consulting Automotive Electronics '88 911 3.2 '04 GSXR1000 '01 Ducati 996 '03 BMW BCR - Gone Last edited by Lorenfb; 08-27-2007 at 07:05 AM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Quote:
Now back to the thread I say, but one comment from the peanut gallery. Lorenfb-Tuning a car on the street is one of the best ways "a tuner" can tune a “modified street car." Your comment about using a laptop to do this? What the hell else would you use for “certain cars”? Sorry to stray.
__________________
72 911 Although it is done at the moment, it will never be finished. Last edited by tobluforu; 08-27-2007 at 06:31 AM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
|
At idle, engine runs slightly hotter; perhaps reduced exhaust emissions depending on mixture setting.
At higher rpm, you could be leaving some power on the table as well as fuel mileage. The trick is to identify the ideal timing for all engine speeds under all operating conditions. It ends up to be a compromise with older engine management systems. Sherwood |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 3,346
|
Apparently Loren doesn't know the difference between RON and MON octane numbers. Quite the expert on these matters.
-Andy
__________________
72 Carrera RS replica, Spec 911 racer |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Quote:
D
__________________
Donnie Currently Porsche-less.....
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: WinterHaven FLA
Posts: 151
|
Oh, the horror! I plugged a SteveW chip (84 Euro 3.2 93 oct.) into my Carrera and ran the living crap out of it on 93 oct. My engine, being illiterate with no access to the ongoing controversy, was definitely more responsive, with a noticable increase in power. I bought the chip with the usual curiosity and reservations, but have been totally pleased with it for the last 4 months...This is in very hot, humid conditions with no indications of any problems.. Not meant to be a plug for Steve, necessarily, but this the experience I have had....I have raced and messed with various engines for many years, and there is always room for improvement over stock, not a big revelation to anyone who has been around very long...duh. Alas, the flip side also applies, more power= more stress=less margin=shorter life=less reliability. As has been pointed out, ...thanks, Gordon.
__________________
1984 RoW Cabriolet (needed me-followed me home) |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Louis region
Posts: 3,147
|
Geez Gordon, don't you know you can't trust your own experience? All you have to do is look at the evidence Loren has posted. You know, pics of broken rings, broken ring lands, holed pistons, stuff like that. Oh, wait....
__________________
Deceased: Black '88 Carrera Coupe, Steve Wong and Russell Berry chips, Dansk premuffler, custom MK GT3-style muffler, Magnecores. Al Reed 7 & 8 X 16 Fuchs. Full Elephant Racing suspension, 21/28 T-bars, Turbo tierods, bump steer kit, Bilstein Sports, BK strut bar. Ruf bumpers, 935 mirrors, Carrera 3.0 tail, DasSport bar. '11 BMW 328iX, '18 Nissan Frontier 4X4, '92 Acura NSX. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
tobluforu: funny,.....we know who we are,...and better yet, "why" we are.......thanks..I didn't know what else to do with the thread....so frictional, at times....inanycase,..thanks!
How does a knock sensor "go deaf" at high RPMS? I don't quite understand....... what are the circumstances....I ask this quite earnestly,..so as to learn more about it.....being a recording/audio engineer, I'm, quite interested to learn more of these resonances and what creates them. Thanks to this great group, I've uncovered great reads as to these resonances...cool stuff, me thinks.. As always,..many thanks to all for opening your minds and sharing the "fuel"... Best to all,
__________________
Recording Engineer, Administrator and Entrepeneur Designer of Fine Studios, Tube Amplifier Guru 1989 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe 25th Anniversary Special Edition Middle Georgia |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Better yet,..do the sensors' sensitivities differ at different frequencies (the device itself)? Why would one design a sensor that isn't somewhat more broader-banded, if you will?
If someone has some nice trace displays (scope-based) of this phenomena, I would love to see it........even better if on a specral analysis plot..(just simply transforms would do...) Thanks again!!!
__________________
Recording Engineer, Administrator and Entrepeneur Designer of Fine Studios, Tube Amplifier Guru 1989 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe 25th Anniversary Special Edition Middle Georgia |
||
|
|
|