Installing new shifter bushings need a little help.

[oregonmon]

I was going to title this "oh yeah, this is why I don't enjoy working on cars" but I'm going to try to not get discouraged. I accidentally removed two nuts on the shifter's plate which underneath were two nice little springs popping the plate up so now I have to figure out how to push that plate back down and get those nuts on.


Also is this the center pin in the coupler? The metal round piece in the center of the bushing which is in the coupler. How hard should this be to get out, and how? And if I do get it out how hard is it to get back in? Wayne's book says possibly best to take it to a machine shop.


Thanks.
Oh by the way, I'm not a real DIY'er but I thought I would try to bond with my car on another level by doing some home projects.
It's going to be ok, it's going to be ok, it's going to be ok.

[911pcars]

Renewing the the shift coupler bushings is a fairly common topic. I'll suggest you get some info from the archives.

As for replacing the carrier plate, I see the shift housing is removed from the vehicle. Here's how I do it:

Place the shifting housing on the floor on top of two 2x's. The shift lever goes between the two boards so the housing sits flat.

Wear safety goggles. With the two M6 nuts ready to install (washers go on later), install the springs. Place a shop cloth on stop of the carrier plate then press straight down. Use your body weight to compress the springs with the carrier plate until the stud(s) protrude through the carrier plate. Install nut #1 a few threads. Press the other end of the carrier plate downward to expose the other stud, then install nut #2. Tighten both nuts with a 10mm wrench, making sure the ends of the spring guide plate protrudes into the slotted holes in the carrier plate.

After the carrier plate is fully seated with both nuts tight, remove one nut and install the washer (one nut will hold everything in place). Tighten, then repeat on the other stud.

There may be other methods, but that's how I do it. Most facial cuts and contusions will heal. :-)

Sherwood

[oregonmon]

I can't get the shifter completely out because of the shift boot. Will the boot rip if I try to pull it over the shift knob?
What about the center pin on the coupler? How should I tap that out?

[C4 Pazzo]

You should be able to remove the shift knob. Some have a hex set screw. Others just need to be levered off with a couple of screw drivers (wear safety glasses).

Regarding the coupler, you can press the pin out using a vice and some tall sockets. Use one socket that is slightly smaller than the pin on one side of the pin, and another socket with an inside diameter wider than the pin on the other side. Slowly tighten the vice to press the pin out. Installation is the reverse, as they say.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by oregonmon

I can't get the shifter completely out because of the shift boot. Will the boot rip if I try to pull it over the shift knob?
What about the center pin on the coupler? How should I tap that out?

You should be able to compress the shift boot and slide it through the hole in the carpet and/or center console.

If you have to remove the center console, here's some info that might help:

http://seinesystems.com/GateShift-Console.htm

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

[jbirkett]

Unfortunately the best way to remove the shift knob would require the shifter to still be in the car. Assuming you still have the screwdrivers in place like in the picture, I would bolt the shifter back in place and then use the method described by Sherwood (911pcars) and once that is done you find an open end wrench slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft. Placing that just under the knob use a sizeble hammer and give it a few sharp raps upwards. There is a compresion sleeve between the shaft and the knob that tightens the knob on.
I had a terrible time getting my shift knob off when I needed to replace the bushings.
The shift coupler looks to be in pretty good shape, but hard to tell from the pictures. Since you have it this far off I would replace it. If you are inclined to spend the extra money I would replace with either a Weevo or a Stromski. I haven't done that with mine yet but it is one of the 'to do' items and at the top of my list.
Good luck

Buy the way, you might want to look now for the how to on readjusting once you get these things done. Be patient and you will get it just right.

[oregonmon]

Regarding the coupler, you can press the pin out using a vice and some tall sockets. Use one socket that is slightly smaller than the pin on one side of the pin, and another socket with an inside diameter wider than the pin on the other side. Slowly tighten the vice to press the pin out. Installation is the reverse, as they say.

That sounds like that could work and maybe not to hard to put the pin back in. Thanks.
I would rather not mess with taking the shift knob of if I don't have to. I've got the two bushings upfront already replaced, I just need to put that plate back on. Any other ideas that don't require taking the assembly completely out.

[dtw]

The dowel in the shift coupler is easily removed with a vice, drift, and BFH. Took me a few smart raps with the BFH on a 30 year old coupler, no problem.

[livi]

Perhaps I am just a foreign sissy, but I opted to buy a whole new coupling instead of fiddling with the bushings in it, as reportedly has put gray hair on many a brave man..Didnīt cost that much either.

[oregonmon]

Well even if you buy a whole new coupler, wouldn't you still have to get the center pin out?
I've got the two front bushings in, so now replace the coupler bushings, put the shifter back together, and do the adjustment procedure.
Thanks for all your help so far, it really helps.

[safe]

Originally Posted by oregonmon

I would rather not mess with taking the shift knob of if I don't have to. I've got the two bushings upfront already replaced, I just need to put that plate back on. Any other ideas that don't require taking the assembly completely out.

I don't understand your problem, you don't need to remove either the shift knob or the shift boot to remove the shift housing from the car, or has I misunderstood something?

Originally Posted by oregonmon

Well even if you buy a whole new coupler, wouldn't you still have to get the center pin out?

No, when you replace the coupler you don't need to disassemble it.
Pushing the pin in and out with two sockets it quite simple.

[jmcn3rd]

Don't fear getting the pin and bushings out of the coupler. I did it for my first time and was surprised that it was fairly straight forward. I did purchase this little tool a while back from Harbor Freight which makes these little press jobs pretty easy though.



You should be concerned about getting the adjustment of the coupler back to how it needs to be after you re-bush so try to leave yourself a reference point. It took me about 10 or more times to get it to properly shift into and out of 5th.

[oregonmon]

Well after more reading and help from a local Pelicanite Alex (aka Russian Blue) we got it all figured out. Had a machine shop press out the center pin and put back in and to be honest the tech article on this website for linkage adjustment worked much better than the 101 projects procedure. For a real beginner the book leaves out a few things that I wished it included.
Anyhow it's done and I'm real happy with the results. I was a little concerned that after all is said and done it wasn't going to be a difference. The bushings I replaced were not too bad but in the long run it really cleaned up the feel. I could just imagine what this and the short shift kit could do.
Well I guess on to the next project. Ohhh. Alex!!!!