Definitive solution for the 911 A/C problem

[squelch]

Gentlemen,

I have read everything I can find on getting the A/C to effectively work. There is tons of great information on this forum, but it all seems to be scattered randomly throughout multiple threads and much of it is several years old or incomplete.

I have read so many different approaches but none of them seems to stand out as the best solution. Surely, by now, we have tried everything and have determined the best way to make a 911 A/C system work on R-134.

Can someone please point me to this information.

If there is not a good how to article, how about if everyone who has gotten their A/C working well will post the specifics of their set-up, to include:

Specific parts (with links if able)
Costs
How satisfied you are with the results

This subject seems to be addressed so often that it would be nice to have a one-stop thread to harness all of the A/C knowledge we have on this forum.

Thanks,
Chuck

[NoLift911]

Definitive solution = removal of the tumor...

[Mitch Leland]

I knew Chuck's request left himself open for Nolift911 reply, "final solution, remove the tumor"... HaHa.

Chuck does have a point, there is a lot of different information on the BB, I guess pick the one that fits your ability or pocket book. It will be interesting to see what Technical Wizards weighs in on this.

[Tim Hancock]

A quick link to my AC/134 experience. PS, it is still working good.
DIY 134 conversion in SC complete!

[mthomas58]

One of my favorites.... orig published in a Feb 2004 Texas PCA newsletter. Reprint posted here:

http://www.rennaire.com/MiddletonArticle.pdf

Orig article with pics here:

http://www.mavpca.org/slipstream/ss_feb04.pdf

[1982911SCTarga]

My experience from a year and a half ago. Still doing fine. A/C Repair and Leak-finding

Brian

[charleskieffner]

try contacting patrick motorsports. jim or brian 602 244-0911. we just broke historical records for the hottest summer in history. 30 days straight of 110 degree or above.

and dont give me crap its a dry heat.............60 degree plus dew points.

as a native of 50 years..................R-12 baby. worth every penny!

[squelch]

Thanks for the great input guys. This has given me plenty to think about.

I am especially intrigued by Tim Hancock's cheap conversion to R-134. I might as well start with a basic R-134 conversion and then go from there.

I am also interested in the Duracool solution. Anyone have any happy stories converting to Duracool?

Two quick questions:

1. Anyone have a part number or description for the cheap dryer I can get from Napa or Autozone. Maybe what car it originally came off of?

2. Where is the best place to get an R-134 conversion kit?

Thanks,
Chuck

[Tim Hancock]

Originally Posted by squelch

Thanks for the great input guys. This has given me plenty to think about.

I am especially intrigued by Tim Hancock's cheap conversion to R-134. I might as well start with a basic R-134 conversion and then go from there.

I am also interested in the Duracool solution. Anyone have any happy stories converting to Duracool?

Two quick questions:

1. Anyone have a part number or description for the cheap dryer I can get from Napa or Autozone. Maybe what car it originally came off of?

2. Where is the best place to get an R-134 conversion kit?

Thanks,
Chuck

Chuck, I ordered my $18 dryer from a local Advance Auto. I simply said I needed a dryer for a '79 SC. The older cars such as my SC uses 45 degree flare type connections and the cheap dryer indeed had them, but the fittings were oriented differently than on my car. I simply made a short adapter line with some aluminum tubing and a few 45 degree fittings from a local auto/hardware store to allow the original hoses on the car to reach the different configuration (only port was out of position compared to stock, so you only need to fab up one extension/adapter). At some point Porsche started using oring type fittings and there are cheap dryers available with those fittings also. The generic 134 kits complete with a can of oil/134 mix are available at pretty much all chain type auto parts stores (the adapter fittings might not fit your AC service ports, but I used my old r12 gauges and simply used a adapter fitting to hook the 134 charge hose supplied with the kit to my gauge set to charge thru). A little bit of imagination will allow you to come up with something that works.

Keep in mind, I am a "hard core" DIY type and am an engineer and also have aircraft mechanic ratings. Some stuff that seems simple to me, might not be so simple for those who are not quite so mechanically inclined. That said, I have had good luck rebuilding (re-sealing) a few AC compressors and restoring function to most of my old german cars that had non-functioning AC when I bought them.

AC gauge sets are fairly cheap now at most chain auto parts stores, but IMO, a decent vacuum pump is the biggest obstacle standing in the way of the average weekend mechanic. The average guy might want to simply leak check/repair the system, buy a dryer, then take the car with new dryer to a auto service center to have them vacuum and charge the system. IOW fix all the mechanical problems yourself, then let the pros simply vacuum/charge the system, that way you save the sometimes costly repair portion and only pay for a recharge.

PS: my old stock York system charged with 134 is STILL working just fine and has only required one can of 134 in about 3 years now.

[charleskieffner]

does it get to 124 degrees F where you live?????

R-12 BABY! screw the freeking OZONE! we are the global warming poster kids and theres no turning back the hands of time!

lets see industrial revolution started when?

thats how many years?

im 50 years old.

and its all gonna change and be cool again because we use R-134?

meanwhile 200 miles south of me in mexico they still use R-12 and it costs nothing. they wipe their a$$ with it cuz its so cheap!

thats right we have a wall that not only stops illegal immigration but also stops any R-12 from getting into the U.S.?

new 2008 GM trucks w/R134 are blowing less cool than older GM's with R-12. hmmmm

new porsches blow less cool than older porsches w/R-12? HMMMM

VW rabbit gas truck with R-12 blows colder than any vehicle i have ever been in ?

hmmmmmmmmmmm????

gosh maybe the heat is getting to me after 50 years here???

the hole in the freeking ozone layer is right above our heads every single freeking day here in the summer!

[skipdup]

I run R12 in my 930 - added a fan to the small rear 1/3 sized turbo condenser, replaced the York with a Sanden, added the center vent and run an underbelly condenser.

It blows cold! Freakishly cold. Cold enough to burn your leg if left on hi. Wife has to wear a sweater/jacket when riding with me. I have to run it a low speed. Even in TX, during the summer, in stop-and-go traffic, etc.

The system hasn't been touched in four years.

I'd tell you that the solution for the 911 cooling problems is quite simple.

- Skip

[Tim Hancock]

I am not saying that the 911 stock system cannot be improved, but it can be made to work for very little money. If I had to daily drive my car in stop and go city traffic for long periods of time, I would not be happy with the stock system. In Ohio it indeed gets very hot (we had weeks of 90+ high humidity days this summer)......not 124 degrees as Charles mentioned, but none the less too hot to drive 40 miles to work each way without AC daily (sure, I could do it, but work is stressful enough without having to drive home sweating like a pig). My CHEAP DIY fix works just fine for me. The first few miles of city traffic on the way home after the car has sat on black pavement all afternoon are a bit warm, but the stock system, once on the remaining 35 miles of freeway/rural roads is plenty cool (after about ten miles, I typically turn the fan down a notch or two even on the hot days.

I simply would not drive my 911 daily if it were not for the AC as I have many other cars that have AC. More power to the folks who have modified/improved systems, but until you ride in my 134 charged stock AC SC, you really can't honestly say it does not work good enough for 90 degree days. If I lived in the south where temps are closer to 100 for months, I too might consider upgrading with more condensors. Some folks here might have only one toy to lavish their hard earned dollars on, I have too many other hobbies/interests to blow thousands of dollars on the "ultimate" AC when the stock system in my locale works sufficiently.

[charleskieffner]

first i have a black cab top(heat sink), second, all patrick moto and myself did was freshen the system after years of abuse. we replaced everything! all lines compressor evap blah blah. every single stinking o-ring!

if you read owners manual it even states to run system often year round.

the only way to keep the system cold and working is to use it all the time. in the winter run it and in the summer obviously.

i too have looked into the spal fans and its not a bad idea. we got 35-37 degrees dependant on which thermometer we used blowing out of the ducts.

since it does get cold here also especially if we get an arctic cold front, on water cooled vehicles we run the heaters during the summer to circulate water thru entire system to clean out crap. also works to add a little bit of capacity to system if towing up a grade sometimes. or in the case of hi-po chevy motors w/aluminum radiators to cool them down.

my point being is you MUST keep an eye on that sight glass in your wheel well. bentley will splain everything. any leaks must be addressed asap. could be as simple as an o-ring or just a loose fitting. a sniffer will help out alot. and run the system YEAR ROUND and not for just a coupla minutes, for a while. keeps seals moist and system happy.

yeah i know its nuts to run the heater in the summer, but i have no problems with heater when i need it in the winter and the exact same with running a/c for awhile in the winter. aircooled or water cooled vehicles.

as mentioned earlier..........we have made the history books with "the hottest summer on record"

it is rude and nasty and people are dying from it literally in the dezerts. our monsoon historically starts around july 4th. thats when humidity goes through roof. swamp coolers on homes are worthless after 50-55 degree dewpoints. 60 and 70 degree dewpoints and ABOVE have been the norm since july.

the dry heat im used to, this humidity crap is just that CRAP! and it sucks the life out of you.........literally!

drove my cab yesterday on errands and stopped by patricks late afternoon. first question out of his mouth was hows the a/c???

el PERFECTO!

its damn hot here kids, with an aircooled car with a gazzillion feet of a/c hose designed in freeking der vaterland which i dont think has EVER seen a 100 degree day. but you can make them work very well.

my oil temp in traffic yesterday when it posted 114 degrees was 200degrees stopped in traffic. while on freeway 180degrees. yes we are using oem fenderwell cooler and mongo setrab cooler in front.

and thats how you stay cool and your engine stays cool living here in HELL!

R-12..........is THE ANSWER HERE!

[nostatic]

treat the problem, not the symptom. You're the one that's hot. The interior of the car doesn't care about the heat, so why bother to cool it?

[87coupe]

^ Real practical for your daily commute