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Todd Simpson's Avatar
 
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275's on the rear with RS flares

Well, not yet.

Actually 255's on Lindsey 17's and the right rear rubs my oil line.

Where would you reroute these oil lines?

Advice on how to work with these lines appreciated as well, don't even know the first thing about them.




Old 04-16-2005, 12:59 PM
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Todd,
We've got many cars with SC/RS flair running 275s with no problem. Where do yours hit the oil line? How's that motor running?
Dan Jacobs
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Old 04-16-2005, 01:24 PM
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Todd:

I too, would ask you precisely where you see the rubbing?

One more thing,....Do I see a Mocal thermostat in that picture?

If so, I would strongly recommend that you replace it with a factory thermostat as they are the only ones what contain a pressure relief valve and that not only protects the front cooler, its also shunts oil back to the engine as needed to prevent oil starvation at high RPM.
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Old 04-16-2005, 01:52 PM
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check with tyson he set mine up

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Old 04-16-2005, 01:59 PM
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Bunch of ways to route the lines, here's one.
Back of my 86 turbo look with a 17x12 rim and 335/35 tire.

Old 04-16-2005, 02:05 PM
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TEASE!!! Let's see another view of those wheels!
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Old 04-16-2005, 07:29 PM
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I assume you mean these?
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271
1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’
1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie'
1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’
1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress
Old 04-16-2005, 07:36 PM
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Okay James, I'll ask. What are the specs on your wheels? I guess you know they're really nice.

Sherwood
Old 04-16-2005, 10:00 PM
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Dan-Motor runs very nicely. I've got 2 days in this year at Summit and will be at LRP 4/28. Look me up if you're there, you've done a lot of work for me and we've never met in person!

The rubbing is right where you see the 2 clamps, on one top of the other. The offending spring plate bolt is directly below, though that does not need to be shaved...yet.

I think there are some differences in wheelwells, this is a '71 tub. Later cars have more clearance? Check the pic, below car is an '84.

Steve-Thanks for the tip on the thermostat, I had no idea...will add that to the list. Will it work with these lines?

Old 04-17-2005, 06:12 AM
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What not space out the wheel an 1/8 of an inch or more?
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:49 AM
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That's an option, lips are not rolled yet and it's close.

Since 275's are on the way, this will need to be done sooner or later.
Old 04-17-2005, 03:39 PM
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there should be enough negative camber to not have to roll em.
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1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress
Old 04-17-2005, 04:47 PM
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From Mr. Verburg's website

http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/wmv/3_6liter.htm
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Old 04-17-2005, 05:21 PM
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Yeah, as usual Bill's got the info. However, the shelf he references is not present on a '71. You can see the differences in the pics above.



One possibility is the run the lines along the seam, behind the spring plate, then up with a 90 degree transition into the thermostat. The other option is Ted's over the top of the wheelwell solution, though only the tank line can go up there. The other line comes out from where the starter is.

Camber is already -2.5.
Old 04-17-2005, 06:05 PM
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As Todd knows, the early cars don't have the shelf that you can recess the oil lines into. D & E will be the initial area of contact when the backspace of the wheels gets ito the ~150+mm range.

The solution is to reduce backspace w/ a spacer keeping front space > 114mm

W/ perfect o/s 9.5 and 10" wheels can be fit in that space w/275s but only when clearanced at C, D and lip

If you are racing it's worth doing, or if you are just a fanatic. Otherwise I would use a 255/40 or 265/40(35) on the 9s and have an easier time of it.
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Old 04-18-2005, 05:48 AM
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Lazy way to reroute oil lines

I just picked up a set of 930 wheels (16x7 and 16x9) for my SC. I have 265's running on the back, and I too have the wheel rubbing the oil lines.

I know I could go out and have someone make me some braided lines...which would require me to measure and/or take a sample to the shop and figure out how long of a line I needed etc......

The lazy part: Is there a place out on the web that knows we P-car guys do this and already has a set of wheel well lines that route up around the well already made? Then all I need to do is order....
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Old 09-07-2007, 03:51 PM
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on an SC it's very unusual for 9s w/ 265/ to have n oil line interference. But if that is the issue just relocate the stock lines down into the crease. A little pressure and heat is all that is needed.

If you look at the last pic Todd posted, that is my right rear wheel well. 275/40 on +19.05mm wheels are perfectly centered. But the oil lines were relocated down and back into the crease and the trailing arm bolts trimmed a tad. The lips were shaved and pulled out for clearance(not for the faint of heart)
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Old 09-07-2007, 04:07 PM
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It rubs (just barely shines the lines) but it's with some neg camber too. I suspect it angles it twds the lines slightly.

Whats your method of heating? Do I need to remove the lines to do this?
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Last edited by flat6pilot; 09-07-2007 at 04:16 PM..
Old 09-07-2007, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flat6pilot View Post
Whats your method of heating? Torch?! Do you actually just heat up the end near the thermostat and bend it down??
Torch or heat gun, try to spread the bend out over as large a length as possible.
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Old 09-07-2007, 04:17 PM
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I've got 265x18's mounted on 10" wheels in the rear, no rubbing. I had to massage the stock oil lines with a 3 lbs sledge (not dented just changed the changed the curvature a bit). I'm about 1/8-1/4 inch from the eccentric bolt with approximately 5.75" of back spacing on the 10" wheel. My fender lips aren't rolled or shaved, and I'm running stock ride height and suspension setting at the moment. A 275 tire shouldn't have much more section width than a 265...brand to brand the section width varies slightly for the same tire width.

Old 09-07-2007, 05:14 PM
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