snap-on solid deck mid-rise scissor lift

1985coupe · 10-06-2007, 02:41 PM

Read a lot on this forum about scissor lifts, and I am pretty much set for the model I'd like to go with: Bend Pack 6000lbs mid-rise.

Now I came across a used snap-on mid-rise with the solid deck (late model) for $500.00 cheaper than a new Bend Pack.

So I have 2 questions for you guys out there with some experience with those lifts:

(1) does the solid deck interfer with some jobs that would be easier done with a more open-design such as the Bend Pack (or HF, AC, panther, etc...)?
I came across at least one pelicanist who posted on this forum who had that snap-on model with the solid deck (Bill Verburg if I recall correctly). It looks like the deck length is about 80" so it might cover some components such as e.g., suspension (front) or transmission (rear). Is there flexibility in placing the car above the deck to make those components more easily accessible? Any balancing issue?

(2) the snap-on costing more than twice the price of a Bend Pack, is this IYHO justified in terms of quality of components and safety.

Now I realize that's more than 2 questions, but I am sure you understand my major issues. Any comment on this would be greatly appreciated!

RoninLB · 10-07-2007, 07:22 AM

Car and lift is in fixed position and makes engine drop a problem. Don't know about moving lift more forward.

I bought mine used for $1,400 yrs ago. Used should go for 1/2 or less than new.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

Yes, I have a Snap-On w/ solid deck

I use it mostly for brake and wheel work, never tried it but local shops do use them for droping engine and trans from 911s.

The only issue from my perspective is the deck height, it makes getting a very low car like my 993 a bit more of an issue. Normal cars it's not an issue.

Again I haven't done it but I have seen the local shop guys pick low race cars up on the deck, w/o using the lifting arms, 911, 964 and 993 can be done this way.

plus is that you have an adjustable height work bench, it is very useful for awkward and heavy objects like motorcycles and snowblowers.

The white pads are needed to get mu 993 on it, most other cars not needed.
I carpeted the deck in case I want to lift on it. The wide side ramps are kust a convienience for a flat work area, the carpet is rolled up for messy work.

1985coupe · 10-07-2007, 07:50 AM

Thanks for your input Ronin. The newer snap-on model (retailing for $4000) has a solid deck that would also (or even more so) get in the way of things. I am planning on installing some ramps such that I could play with the positionning of the lifting arms (e.g., all the way back for an engine drop); my concern would be about stability. Where is the center of gravity of our cars? I'd assume it would remain within the contact points made by the lift with the floor. Is that a correct assumption?

And I might be able to get the snap-on lift with solid deck for... 1/4 of the price, so that's definitely a strong argument. I'd rather go with a bargain on a brand name, but if in the end it doesn't suit my intended applications, I might be better of going for a Bend Pak (or similar) that might allow better access to some of the car's components.

Thanks and hope to get more feedback. Hope Bill Verburg will get back to me as he seems to have that late model snap-on.

Greetings.

1985coupe · 10-07-2007, 08:00 AM

Well Bill I guess you heard my prayer... and were faster than me... Thanks for all the input! Glad to hear that you've actually witnessed this lift being used to drop engine/trannies on the 911; that's really all I needed to know! Since you mention that they don't use the lifting arms and just load cars on the deck, I'd assume that a sheet of plywood (like in your pics) would be all what is needed to go between the lift deck and the belly of the 911? I even have some HD memory foam lying around that I could find some use for

Not that I am planning an engine drop any time in the near future (cross fingers), but it would be nice to know that I could do it if I were to get that snap-on scissor lift with solid deck; I know it's doable now, so that's some unvaluable information here! Thanks Bill!

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

The wood is just used for projects, I think I was cleaning wheels that day. I usually keep a piece of carpet there.

There are some things like 964/993 shift linkage that are blocked from below but a 911 has very little of interest in the center.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

ps hard to believe that they are up to ~$4k, I paid less than $2k new hust a few years ago.

1985coupe · 10-07-2007, 08:15 AM

Well that's at least the price published on snap-on website:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?store=snapon-store&item_ID=72216&group_ID=1711

OK, it's only $3995 so I exagerated a bit

RoninLB · 10-07-2007, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1985coupe

....drop); my concern would be about stability. Where is the center of gravity of our cars? I'd assume it would remain within the contact points made by the lift with the floor. Is that a correct assumption?

hard info
My bud took his volvo wagon into a one man body shop. He knows my lift and saw his car "centered" on the snap-on in the shop. He asked him about stability and the guy said it will never tip off.
"Can I try and tip it?"
"Sure"
A 200# guy winds up on top of the fender trying to tip the wagon.. no can do.

Maybe heavy and stiff Detroit iron had something to do wit it ?

i use 3" thick snap-on rubber lift spacers instead of 2x4 no the arms.

ljowdy · 10-07-2007, 05:06 PM

http://www.pantherlifts.com/shopping/index.php?action=category&id=3&gclid=CLqO5sqN_o4CFQh6gwod9zR91w

1985coupe · 10-07-2007, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoninLB

Car and lift is in fixed position and makes engine drop a problem. Don't know about moving lift more forward.

Ronin, you have a really nice set-up with the lift recessed in the floor... I am going to start digging a hole in the middle of my 1-car garage and see how hard my 60-year cured concrete is. The digging of a shallow pit makes total sense especially in the case of a garage floor with any kind of slope -talking about things not tipping over

It seems like the snap-on lift is about 4" when collapsed (the "thickness" of the deck), and I think I read somewhere that the minimum clearance to lift up a car was 4.75". My 911 is stock so this shouldn't be a problem in my case -for now

Bill, talking of slope, is the rear end of your lift on some sort of "spacers"? -that's what it looks like from your last pic; nice way to conceal things. I'm sure my wife would love me for putting carpet in the garage! I could definitely think about such a set-up, and there wouldn't be such a big deck area to build; I'd first want to check hands-on how much head room I'll actually have once the lift is actually in the garage -roof on a slope too

I do like the rubber pads you're using and at $165.00 they seem like a bargain

So 2x4's it will probably do for now, but those babies will be on my "wish list" if I were to get a snap-on that doesn't come with them

I'm not so concerned about stability of those scissor systems when the car is centered on the lift, but rather curious about the range of positioning to allow better access to either the front or the rear of the car. Especially will a deck that could be directly supporting the belly of the car if that'd offer more range and/or more access. However there is obviously a limit to how far you can move the car one way of the other before the center of gravity goes "overboard". I'd think the center of gravity is somewhat aft of the wheel-base middle, but how far out?

Thanks for all the input.

- Olivier