Checking torque on cylinder heads

[dfhtrhjn]

I've got my 2.7L engine out right now and I was wondering if it's a good idea to check the torque on the cylinder heads. Am I at risk of breaking a head stud? The engine runs great, only has 50k miles, and I'm not having any problems with it.

thanks

[Flat6pac]

You wont break a head stud, thats an aluminum case problem. The torque will pull the magnesium threads so you will have to case save insert and install dilivar after a complete disassembly.
Bruce

[timmy2]

Just check to make sure they aren't loose and leave them alone...

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

You wont break a head stud, thats an aluminum case problem. The torque will pull the magnesium threads so you will have to case save insert and install dilivar after a complete disassembly.
Bruce

Bruce,

Are you saying not to check the torque?

It's a good question but I am not sure of the answer.

[dfhtrhjn]

Great. They're not loose and I'm leaving them alone. The alternative doesn't sound nice.

thanks guys

[manbridge 74]

You chose.... wisely.

[timmy2]

Yeah! The real fun starts when a nut and a piece of the stud falls on the ground for the aluminum case engines. Or when the nuts just keep tightening on the magnesium ones...

[Flat6pac]

Bob, I wouldnt take them to spec, as long as they arent falling off. Youre dealing with a sure fired rebuild on a 2.7 and that isnt cheap....
Bruce

[911pcars]

Initial break-away torque is much higher than the torque spec. The most accurate torque readings are obtained as the threaded fastener rotates.

Thus, to re-torque accurately, each head stud nut should be first loosened slightly, then brought up to the specified torque as it rotates.

Check for loose fasteners by applying a fraction of the specified torque (YMMV). If it's loose, you'll feel it move.

Sherwood

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Youre dealing with a sure fired rebuild on a 2.7 and that isnt cheap....

Got you. That is a lot of risk.