Caliper rebuild lube type

[redcoupe86]

I need to get the proper assembly lubricant for the inner seal and piston. From what I'm reading I need a Silicon assembly lube.

I'm assuming this is not the same as Silicon spray that comes in the can and has the consistancy water, but more like a thick gel, but I'm not sure.

Are there any alternative other than brake fluid? For instance, could I use teflon greas, or lithium grease?

I only have an O'rileys

__________________
1986 944 Turbo - Guards Red

[Nine9six]

FWIW,
I used nitrile gloves and brake fluid so I didn't have to worry about brake system contamination.

[Superman]

What you need is a tube of Dow Corning 111 or 112. This stuff has a wide variety of important applications. Brake rubber is just one. Any o-ring is another. O-rings coated with this stuff, I swear they'll stay soft for a hundred years. And electrical contacts. Keeps out oxygen and prevents corrosion. And there are other uses. Suspension bushings. More.

You get this stuff at hydraulic hose places, or plumbing places. Industrial stores. DC-112 handles a little more heat than DC-111, which has been the long-time standard.

[sscates]

I used the Napa (permatex) ULTRA DISC BRAKE CALIPER LUBE (syntheteic). It comes in individual packets and cost about $1.50. for two packets. Each packet is more than enought to use on the pistions, pins, etc. Item # 765-2429. Good luck.

[KTL]

Originally Posted by sscates

I used the Napa (permatex) ULTRA DISC BRAKE CALIPER LUBE (syntheteic). It comes in individual packets and cost about $1.50. for two packets. Each packet is more than enought to use on the pistions, pins, etc. Item # 765-2429. Good luck.

Yep. Any local auto parts store will have this stuff. Look in the section of the store that has all the silicone RTV, epoxy, anti seize paste, gasket sprays, disc brake quieting goop, etc. etc. etc.

[chrisp]

Why would you use anything other than brake fluid? Why introduce grease into the sealed system that really only wants brake fluid in it? Isn't caliper grease for the lubing of the pins and sliders in floating caliper systems?

[Superman]

Again, my suggestion is to get a tube of DC-111 or 112. Same stuff, only a much larger tube. Probably around $15. It is THE grease to use in a number of applications.

I've used BF quite a bit to lube brake parts, and I greatly prefer a very thin coating of the Dow Corning. Part of the reason is because DC seems to simply prevent rubber from getting old. Also, it is MUCH more slippery than BF. And finally, BF loves water. Water contains free oxygen. And so, one of the best ways to promote oxydation is to coat something with BF.

But if you insist on getting the PITA small packets, this same stuff is often called "Dielectric Grease." Because it's also the right grease for lubing points. And other electrical components. Trust me. This is one of my main automotive wisdoms, accumulated over thirty-five years of learning the hard way.

[Rusty Heap]

Our fine host sells the caliper rebuild kits for cheap, and the tube of lube is only like $6........heck, the lube is even made in Germany so there you go P-car fanatics......

[redcoupe86]

dielectric grease!!!! I already have that in a can!

great! Thanks.

Originally Posted by Superman

Again, my suggestion is to get a tube of DC-111 or 112. Same stuff, only a much larger tube. Probably around $15. It is THE grease to use in a number of applications.

I've used BF quite a bit to lube brake parts, and I greatly prefer a very thin coating of the Dow Corning. Part of the reason is because DC seems to simply prevent rubber from getting old. Also, it is MUCH more slippery than BF. And finally, BF loves water. Water contains free oxygen. And so, one of the best ways to promote oxydation is to coat something with BF.

But if you insist on getting the PITA small packets, this same stuff is often called "Dielectric Grease." Because it's also the right grease for lubing points. And other electrical components. Trust me. This is one of my main automotive wisdoms, accumulated over thirty-five years of learning the hard way.

[arbita1]

I bought some permatex brake assembly lube and brake cleaner spray from a local auto parts store. That's all you need.

Actually....you may want to pick up some scotch brite pads in case you have to buff off any surface rust on the pistons.

[RWebb]

I would use ONLY the Porsche product. Bill V. & others have posted on it before if you do a search. It will work FAR better than just brake fluid - a thread in the last day or two pointed out some of the problems of using nothing more than brake fluid. I see no reason to use a generic cheapo when dealing with the most important safety component on your high-performance sports car.

Pelican has it and one tube can be shared among several people.
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* Unisilikon TK 44 N 2 Porsche # 000.043.117.00 is the preferred assembly lube for the calipers
factory assembly paste for the internal o-rings/pistons. There are many assembly "lotions" on the market, Porsche's stuff is the best. It not only aids assembly, it speeds up the break-in process. The Porsche assembly paste is Klüberfluid 9 R 100 and manufactured by Kluber Lubrication. The seal kits for the 964 and 993 come with a ketchup packet of the stuff but I'm not sure if that is the case with the seal kits for earlier models.

$30 at Pelican (telephone them)

[Superman]

Originally Posted by redcoupe86

dielectric grease!!!! I already have that in a can!

great! Thanks.

Put a dab on your index finger and rub it in using your thumb. Then wipe it off. Wipe it all off. In fact, wash your hands. If, for the rest of the day, your finger and thumb continue to feel slippery, that's silicon grease. The right stuff.

[chrisp]

if i found the correct thread, you want grease because it seals the piston bore after the rebuild and should the seal go bad it's an extra layer of protection?

[RWebb]

& can seal over minute scratches

you can bet there is a reason PAG specs its use...