Ignition switch question

[toddu]

So, every few times I put the key in and turn I get no resistence and the car doesn't start. Take the key out, put back in and try, etc. Sometimes I don't have to do this, other times I have to do this 2 or 3 times before it will start.

A couple questions -

Will this eventually just not work?

Anything I can do to put off the potentially inevitable?

Is this the fix that requires drilling out the rivets (for lack of a better term), etc? Doesn't sound like a fun project.

Cheers,
Todd

[Super_Dave_D]

Originally Posted by toddu

So, every few times I put the key in and turn I get no resistence and the car doesn't start. Take the key out, put back in and try, etc. Sometimes I don't have to do this, other times I have to do this 2 or 3 times before it will start.

A couple questions -

Will this eventually just not work?

Anything I can do to put off the potentially inevitable?

Is this the fix that requires drilling out the rivets (for lack of a better term), etc? Doesn't sound like a fun project.

Cheers,
Todd

To replace the mechanical part of the ignition switch - yes you would need to drill out the rivets. I have had this problem and just shot some WD40 in there and it freed it up and I haven’t had an issue since. A lot of gunk gets in there over the years. Now with that said, a bunch of people will say not to use WD40 and use this or that. You can do a search on this and make a decision that you feel comfortable with. All I know is WD40 did it for me.

[group911@aol.co]

Generally, it means that the engaging mechanism at the back of the tumbler has worn enough that it will eventually stop engaging.
I usually loosen up the "rivets" with a chisel then turn them out with pliers.
There is also a set screw at the steering column that requires a 13mm wrench and I think a 5mm allen wrench.

[Mike Andrew]

I would try the WD first. If it fails, then it may be mechanical portion of the switch time. I used my Dermel & cut a slot in the bolts & then just backed them out with a screwdriver. My biggest PITA was the set screw which I removed. Very hard to get back in.
Really not that difficult a project.

[rusnak]

yeah the set screw is the biggest pita. I had to use a stubby allen key that was left over from assembling some furniture. You can save your old tumbler, so no need to re-key. The drivers seat absolutely must come out in order to get at everything under the dash.

I say you're postponing the inevitable. Maybe the wd40 will let you change the switch when it's more convenient for you. On the other hand winter is upon us, so you might be looking at spring if you put if off, unless you have a heated garage.

One trick I learned is that you can extract the shear bolts with either a bolt extractor, or an easier way is to hit the bolt "head" at an angle with an air chisel. One or two good raps and the bolt will start to turn since it is not held in with much torque.

You need a small rivet gun for the other two mounting holes opposite of the shear bolt holes.

[spuggy]

The detents - the "clicks" when you turn the key- are all provided by the electrical portion of the switch, not the mechanical lock portion. The lock part just moves freely once there's a key in it - although you might get some "feel" when the actual steering lock part is engaged.

Flooding the lock with WD40 (I prefer silicon lube) will wash out the old grease and gunk gumming up the lock pins, if the lock has a tendancy to jam or be stiff - but it won't do anything to help the electricial portion. You could try electronic switch cleaner - but to be clear, it's a sealed assembly, so....

I'm surprised it sometimes works for you - mine worked until it just quit one day, and then never worked again.. It never stopped clicking, either - it was just that turning it to Start did nothing...

You can change just the electrical portion, but it's a real pig. Try a minature ratchet and screwdriver bit to start it, then turn it out by hand with just the screwdriver bit. The bottom one is bad enough, but the top one is truly evil as it's so tight on the bulkhead. I'd probably have drilled out the shear bolts without a second thought if I'd had an electric drill...

Oh, one thing - Pelican lists the 964 part from 74-89. Porsche list the 964 part from 84-89 and a 911 part from 74-83 (which costs twice as much). My wrench says that, back in the day, he's changed 911 ignitions which came with the 928 part from the factory.

The only difference I can see is that the early switch lets you go from Run->Start, release the key to the Run position and then go straight back to Start. The later electical switch I borrowed forces you to turn all the way off and back to Run before you can try Start again.

[toddu]

Hmm.... I wonder if it's potentially the key being worn down (appears to be original). When it does work, you can feel a little resistence when going from Run to Start. When it doesn't work, it feels a bit free'r. And, the key jiggles in there pretty good.

The very odd thing is that when I haven't driven the car in a while (I travel for work, so it sits probably at least 5 days a week, and it's a second car), I don't think it's ever acted like that "cold". Almost as if the problem comes when a key has been in it for a while, and shortly before having to restart it again (i.e. - if I run to the store, good chance I'll have to give it a couple tries when I leave the store). Maybe it is just gummed up in there.

I'll dig out the other key and see if that works any different, and try a bit of WD40. If I still experience the same thing I'll just plan on a PITA day sometime in the near future.

Thanks, you guys rock!!

Todd

[Mike Andrew]

I realized that mine was kaput and took a look under the dash & tried to get one of my giant paws in there to access the 2 screws that hold things together. NFW!!! I decided to just pull the switch and replace the back half. There are a number of guys here who have had success in just removing the electrical portion with the switch in place, however.
I second drivers seat removal. Much easier on the lower back.