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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 419
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Jack car for Transmission Mount ?
Hi folks,
Quick question before I replace my transmission mounts: Is it ok to put the the car up on stands at the torsion bar ends, then lift the transmission with a jack and remove the mount bolts? My worry is that with the car tilted forward the transmission would shift a bit when the bolts are removed, and I'd have no way of lowering the car at that point seeing as my jack is in use. Thanks, Babak |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SC, MUC, CN
Posts: 1,649
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I did it the same way and had no problem replacing the mounts.
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Monkey Butt Forespin
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cumberland, RI
Posts: 474
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Ditto. I replaced the engine & trans mounts while the car was up on the t-bar tubes for the suspension swap. I didn't do them all at once, of course.
__________________
Fred Hurder Jr For Tech Questions: '84 911 Carrera Cabriolet (US) Weltmeister Chip, Fabspeed Euro Pre-Muffler, M&K 1-in / 1-out Muffler 22 ERP /29 Sander Hollow T-Bars, Bilstein HD Struts / Sport Shocks ERP Poly-Bronze Bearings (A-Arms & Spring Plates), Stock Swaybars Turbo Tie Rods, '92 C2 5-Spoke wheels w/ 1" adapters, Drilled Zimmermans Yes, I drive mine as much as possible. If it's >32° & sunny, I've got the top down.
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Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
Posts: 6,044
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In the event the transmission shifts, do not attempt to use the tapered tip bolts to realign the mounts with the female threaded holes in the bottom of the car. Only start the screws by hand; if you attempt to force drive them into place with a wrench or socket there is a good chance you will cross thread and strip the female threads. They are not easy to repair. If the shifting occurs, buy or borrow an inexpensive bottle jack and use that to support the front of the transmission while you extract the main jack. Put anti-seize on the mount bolt threads.
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AutoBahned
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you could probably leave the small bolts (& hence mounts) loose while getting the very expensive tapered bolts aligned...
the female threads Jim refers to are part of the unit body |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Carlos, CA US
Posts: 5,561
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do one at a time, and you'll be fine.
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Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851 |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 419
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Great advice all - thanks! I'll give it a shot tomorrow, while the PB Blaster soaks in.
Much appreciated, Babak |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 419
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So close!
I didn't strip the big center bolt, but the two small ones on the side are toast! I was tightening to 18 ft-lbs with the torque-wrench and it got tighter... and tighter... then surprisingly easy. I can't even take it off now, it just spins and spins. One is very tight, but the other is loose (probably because the washer under it bent and fell out while I was loosening to see what went wrong). So what now - think it's ok to drive to a mechanic (some freeway driving) for help cutting through them to replace? The center bolts are at 58 ft-lbs and the other transmission mount is secure (though I didn't use the torque wrench on the two little bolts, just the elbow). ![]() Thanks, Babak |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Carlos, CA US
Posts: 5,561
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Thisi is what I would do:
Support the transmission with a jack. Remove the 2 engine bolts Remove th 4 13mm nuts at the center of the carrier, and the transmission carrier will drop down. Take it out to a bench and you can replace the 2 offending engine mount - carriers bolts. Or, take it to the machine shop.
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Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851 |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 419
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Thanks yelcab1 - it would be great advice if I had long-term confidence in my floor jack. I swear it drops a few mm every hour or so. So I took another shot at trying to pull of the nuts but I think the worn part of the bolt had developed a lip that prevented going any further.
So, with a heavy heart I went to the nearest auto shop that wasn't in a gas station. After putting it up the owner said he'd charge an hour to remove the two bolts. $95 sounded a bit steep, but opportunity cost is something (I couldn't find any appropriate tools at any of the walking-distance stores). It took them about 30 minutes and I got to observe a very competent job. The only weird point was that the bolt we had was a little long so they put two nuts on the end. I'm tempted to take it off, what do you guys think? The net result: the most expensive "DIY" motor/transmission mount replacement in history! On the motor mounts the cross-bar broke and I had to replace it, and on the transmission mounts the little bolts stripped and I (gasp) had to pay someone for help removing it. All in all about $300, but it certainly feels like a tighter ride, shifting is more consistent, and my ego is only slightly bruised. Thanks all, Babak |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Carlos, CA US
Posts: 5,561
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Davis is a bit far from me (2 hours). Had you lived in Livermore, or somewhere closer to Peninsula Bay Area, we would have sent someone over to your place and had it done in 30 minutes.
Well, live and learn.
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Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851 |
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The Puff.
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: U.S. Navy
Posts: 1,290
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You live in davis?
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