Irritating Door Locks.....?

Akila · 10-22-2007, 12:41 PM

Door locks stopped locking, electronic w/ central locking. Opened both doors, found that one connection had come undone, easy fix. Put it all together & the Drivers door will not lock with the key, which started this all. I hear the solenoid click to unlock, Passanger side works fine. I hotwired the microswitch via the plugin (drivers), found the key open works the solenoid, when hotwiring key closed, nothing. Would this be the Relay? The one with about 10 wires coming out?

mthomas58 · 10-22-2007, 02:01 PM

check the "operating rod" (PN 964-537-571) that goes from the soleniod to the lock mechanism...connects with a nylon socket to a metal ball.....the nylon sockets are notorious for failing. New part is beefed up....easy replacement.

Part # 6 here:

Akila · 10-22-2007, 02:07 PM

Don't think that's it. All mechanicals looked good. I Jumped the microswitch with no response from the key when turned to the lock position. There should be a noticable click of the servo if it was just the rod, correct?

msk1986911 · 10-22-2007, 02:59 PM

This sounds a lot like a problem I recently had. I was scheduled to take the car to the shop last week to have them figure out the problem. Continuing my quest to own a 911 on the cheap, I agreed to remove the panel to cut that step out of the process. When I did that, I had an epiphany of sorts. It dawned on me that the door cannot be locked when opened, therefore I could not see what was or was not moving when the door was open, since nothing would move. I had my wife try the key while I sat in the car and felt inside the door panel. The piece that wasn't moving was parallel to the door around the lock. Once I moved that, the lock worked again, as good as new.

Akila · 10-22-2007, 03:44 PM

I tryed to troubleshoot the possibilities. I engaged the Drivers door latch on the door itself, for the reason of the drivers door not locking when opened. With this done I unplugged the microswitch in the bottom center of door, & got a wire which was touched seperately to the lock & unlock microswitch wire, again only unlock, & no sound of solenoid on the lock phase.

msk1986911 · 10-22-2007, 05:30 PM

My problem was purely mechanical since all I did was move a cam like piece of metal toward the rear and the door lock worked. Best of luck troubleshooting your problem.

Akila · 10-25-2007, 11:19 PM

Found 2 problems. I found a fuse under the Drivers side kick panel, it was burnt, replaced & the drivers door was working as it should. I was a happy camper, til I got back home tried to lock the driver side, no go! Opened the hood & was trying to locate the harness coming out of the door. I had read it connected to a white nylon connector, pulled the closest one first, tryed lock, works! Then doesn't! Got to the other connector, fiddled with it & it works! So it was the second connector somewhere in its line has a bad wire. Not going to mess with it any more unless it acts up. Hey!!!! I am getting good at pulling my doors apart. Slowly finding my way around things.

dfink · 11-18-2007, 03:43 PM

Currently working on the same type of door locking problem. On mine I would fiddle with the wires and things would work for a bit then when you really wanted it to work nothing. I took the door panels off and found one of the microswitches to the kety lock (passenger side) had been spliced. I broke it taking the switch off so I ordered and replaced both key lock switches. Here is where I am at now. The doors will reliably unlock with the key or the central lock switch. If you press the central lock switch with the doors unlocked you can hear the relay and feel the actuators still trying to unlock the doors. If the doors are locked and you turn the knob on the passenger side to unlock the doors the power lock system unlocks both doors after a very short turn of the knob. If you try to do this from the drivers side it simply unlocks the drivers door.
I think the system thinks the doors are still locked and so trys to continue unlocking instead of going into lock mode. I have tried adjusting the actuators and have also unplugged the connectors to both sides of the doors to see if one side was messed up and it still trys to unlock the doors. In looking at the wiring diagram it appears the key switch and the central lock switch do nothing but ground the system which pulls in the coils and moves the actuators. The actuators should then know it they are open or locked and move appropriatly. Is it possible that both actuators have gone bad. Am I wrong in stating that the controller in the fender does nothing but put power to the locks. Argh......

Akila · 11-18-2007, 04:24 PM

I also unplugged the Actuators at their 3 prong that sits inside the door. IIRC I hotwired the 3 prong to see if all was working correctly. It wasnt in my Drivers side door. It was either a loose wire or a harness under the front trunk hood hinge drivers side that was not connecting.

dfink · 11-18-2007, 04:34 PM

The three wire is actually the microswitch wire to key lock. I believe the actuator bundle is 5 wires.

Akila · 11-18-2007, 05:05 PM

By process of elimination & many newer thought out words #@&^%! I tryed to narrow it down. My Central locking has never worked, so I thought it might be that, I am glad it was just a loose wire.

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

Glad to hear you solved the issue.

Mine had a cut wire in my passenger side near the tumbler. It was shorting out and causing my lock to malfunction. I tapped it to insulate and problem solved.

dfink · 11-25-2007, 08:23 AM

Sorry that I kind of jumped in on this thread but since I put the question here I will put the answer here. Turns out that one of my new key switches is faulty. It is constantly in the lock position. Strange thing is I took it all back apart and even took the new switch off the door handle. Operated the switch several times and then it started working. OK I say to myself it must have been stuck. So I put it back on the handle test a few times with the key to make sure it still works. Then I get back to the car plug it in and the system still says it is trying to lock. So I unplug the switch and all is fine. So back to the OHM meter and the Dang switch is back trying to lock all the time. Now I still have the problem with the doors not locking all the time which I think is probably the control unit in the fender. The thing that irks me about the switch is that I only replaced the drivers side as one of those while your doing it things. I replaced the passenger side because someone had cut and spliced the wires and I thought maybe that was my original not locking problem.