Starting Problem

I was at the local Porsche dealer today buying some parts. Upon leaving my car decided not to turn over. A jump didnt help. Eliminates the altenator and battery. I got a push and off I went. I checked the Haynes manual and it appears that I probably have a solenoid problem. Light stay bright but starter does not operate. To troubleshoot it says to CONNECT CABLE FROM TERMINAL 30 TO CONNECTOR STRIP TERMINAL-STARTER NOW TURNS. Can someone tell me what that means so I can test. What is terminal 30 and what is connector strip terminal and what cable is used? Please reply on the board. My email is unavailable.
Thanks in advance
Bill
83 911SC - 3.0L

Bill,

Terminal 30 is the heavy, 4 ga (or thereabouts) battery cable bolted to the solenoid stud. Look on p. 297 of Haynes and you will see the schematic containing the starter circuitry. Unfortuately, your SC has the most confusing solenoid wiring around, with two yellow wires to terminals 50 and 16. Terminal 50 comes from the ignition switch and operates the solenoid. Terminal 16 goes to the cold-start valve and no damage will occur if you jumper the 'hot' connection to that terminal, but the solenoid won't operate! So, jumper your hot wire lead from terminal 30 to 50, and hopefully the car will start! If not, my suggestion is to remove the starter, and disassemble and clean everything with spray brake cleaner/degreaser. Put anti-seize compound on all screw and stud threads. And, lubricate the solenoid shaft, the bendix mechanism, etc. with a good moly grease. Make this cleaning/lubricating proceedure an item to be done every two to three years for years of continued starter good health!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Right you are, Warren. Those two little wires are, I believe, the same color and they both have 1/4" flat terminals, so they are easy to switch, but no damage occurs. Let's call them the 'siamese twin' wires.

Bill, there is always power to that big (usually red) cable attached to the starter. This cable comes direct from the battery and is UNFUSED. For this reason, unhooking the battery ground terminal is very imprtant if you're going to work on the starter. This is also important for the procedure Warren suggests. If you unhook the correct siamese twin wire, you can lay a screwdriver across that terminal, and the power in the big red wire. BE SURE THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL, as this will operate the starter. If it does not, your starter may be sick.

I can validate Warren's observation that tired starters are often just dirty. By cleaning and re-lubing, starters can receive new life. Their bushings and brushes can be replaced as well.

If this procedures operates your starter just fine, then it may not be getting power from the ignition switch, along that siamese twin wire.

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'83 SC

I had the same problem. I thought at first it was my ignition switch, but replacing the starter fixed the problem and offers GREAT peace of mind. A rebuild might get it working, but an older, heavy duty, necessary part like a starter is better off with new, warranty parts, IMHO.

BTW, IF you do have to pull the starter, the top bolt (starter to motor) is best reached by laying on the left side (drivers) and reaching over the tranny with your right hand. I futzed with that for a while before I read elsewhere on this BBS that was the easiest way by far to get the job done.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the info. I went out this morning to start the work but guess what the car started. I have read in the archives that this is probably a hot solenoid problem. I will check cables and grounds. Any more ideas?
TIA
Bill

That's the same symptoms I had. The starter wouldn't work after a long hot drive, but worked fine when cooled down. Wayne's suggestion about lubricating and cleaning will probably work, but I replaced my starter, just for peace of mind. The new starter cranks the car a lot quicker too.