Jacking up car correctly?

Okay I know this may seem stupid BUT.... (big sigh)
I have bought a hydraulic jack to raise the car for maintenance and releave the workload on the factory jack.
The vehicle manual shows a shaded area for jacking which appears to be where the anti- roll bar brackets are.Okay... Fine, so now where am I supposed to put the axle stands to remove the jack safely?.
So thats for the rear, but the same goes for the front.
Feel Kinda stupid asking this but, would rather feel stupid than buggar the porsche
PS bled the brakes this evening and so feeling quite proud of myself actually!
rgds Ben

Try the search for " jacking car", "jacking points" or "raising car". There are plenty of past posts on this subject to get you staarted.

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8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line.

You are wanting to jack up the rear of the car, right? Some will dissagree but I use the engine sump or drain plug plate on my SC as the jacking point. Put a nice 1x4x4 piece of soft pine wood on the jack plate. Jack slowly so nothing binds. Stands are placed under the outboard tubes in front of the rear tires. I use a nice thick slab of foam rubber on the stands to further insure no slippage. I've done this for years with not so much as a scratch on anything. You just have to be careful. If anything looks funny back off and try again.

Thanks RarlyL8
Have read about jacking under the engine, but was'nt 100% confident, but sounds good a then the axle stands have a clear line up for positioning!.
Feel much better now!

86:

This is a great question and a solid floor jack is just the start you need to put it up on all fours and get to really know your car. This was the first question I asked Pcar folks and my understanding is that the sump is OK, though it frightens me to put weight on alloy. I jack just about on the sump cover, being careful of the drain plug.

I use particle board between the jack and car during lifting because it crushes nicely against just about any shape, but still has decent protection twixt jack and pan. Chock the front wheels at the frontside. Rear goes up first, jacks under torsion bar covers extending into wheel wells. Front requires only that I jack just behind either front wheel, just where the underside body "lip" loops around, and free of the oil tubes. I have a special block of wood with a cut in it that fits into the lip. When I jack at this point, the entire front of the car goes up, and I put both jacks under. Now, look for light under ANY of the jackstands' legs. There are some times where I must relift the rear and let the jack resettle (rare).

Put all four wheel under your car at the end corners. Rock the car gently, then a little more. OK? You're all set!

Jw

I use a 2x6 under the engine. make sure it's a good piece of wood and not likely to split.

The only damage I think this does is to put a lot of pressure on the motor mounts. If the mounts are in good shape and elastic it's probably not a problem but the tranny mounts in my 70 have lost their elastic quality and are somewhat flattened. I can't think of anything else, apart from jacking, that would load them up enough to do this.

I bought a jack plate for the jacking points on the side of the car in case it ever has to go into a garage - I've watched a mechanic put a jack under my floor pan, which I objected to, then he put it under one of the SSI heat exchangers. Finally he let me jack it up myself before he fixed the tire.

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Allan Broadribb
'70-911E, 2.2l with Webers

Haven't you guys ever used a jack plate to slip into the side jacking point, then raise the pad with the saddle of the hydraulic jack?
That's how I do it. Raises the entire side of the car at once. Place jackstands on the one side, then go to the opposite side and do the same. Works for me.
The jackplate will cost you $16.00.
regards,
jlex.

No side jack point available on my car. Widebody rocker covers hide them.

I went a step further with the Jack Pad method as mentioned by jlex. I use (2) pads and also have (2) small hydraulic foor jacks.
I jack up the car, pumping up a few inches per side at a time. Put the jack stands in place, and you are ready to go. One other thing I do in the interest of safety is to leave the floor jacks in place, just touching the jack pads. If a stand should kick out, the jack is still in position keeping the car from falling.



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Doug
'81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber")
Canada West Region PCA
members.home.net/zielke/911SC.htm

Smart guy, Doug... I like the idea of two jacks.
regards,
jlex.

jlex, how does this jack plate attach to the hydraulic jack, can anyone post pics please?.
thanks
ben

I would of never thought that there was just as many ways to jack up your car as ways there are to "heel and toe"!

Ben, the jack plate has a 1" square bar that goes into the jack receptacle, and is about 10-12" long ... a 4" round pad, 3/8" thick is welded to the bar stock. You just put your floor jack 'saddle' under the round plate, and lift away ...

If you place a jack stand under the torsion bar tube, just inboard of the end castings, and another just behind the front skid of the front mount of the control arm, and you should not have any stability problems ... been using those locations for decades! You may want to put a bit of cardboard on the rear jack stands to protect the undercoating on the tubes!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

I do believe the factory specifies taht you can jack on the engine of my car. The precise location is behind the sump plate, on about a 5" long, 1/2" tall tongue in the aluminum casting. This location keeps undue pressure off the engine/tranny joint.

A floor jack is as much of a necessity as a vise or a screwdriver. I lift the entire rear at the location described above and then place jackstands under the torsion tube covers that protrude into the wheel well in front of the rear wheels. This makes the car so solid that raising any part of the front end raises the entire front end. For this, I use the corner of the tub that is directly inboard from the rear edge of a front tire. Once raised, I put a jackstand under the matching location on the other side. If I'm going to place my body under there, I have a partner...a 16" block of wood. The block of wood's job is to catch the car if it falls.

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'83 SC

I have jack pads like Warren describes but improved them by welding a piece of pipe so that it sticks down from the pad towards the floor and is the same height as the top of the jack. The advantage is that the bottom of the pipe where the jack engages is not even close to the body.
And life gets a small bit better.
Ned Monaghan