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UFLYICU
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Quote:
Check Wayne's rebuild book. In the back is a good procedure for breaking it in. In general, I would say to "set" the moving parts with conservative RPM's for 50 miles or so, and then change the oil to the good stuff. Once that's done, warm it up and let her rip! With a properly lubricated motor, there is very little metal contact, as you well know from your teardown. Once rings have seated and seals are all snuggled in, she should be ready to run, and as we know, oil pressure rises with RPM, and higher pressure keeps the film of protection in place. It is the low pressure of idling in traffic that kills these motors.
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_______________________ Racer Rix Spec911 #5 prc-racing.com Last edited by ZOA NOM; 01-03-2008 at 03:03 PM.. |
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just me
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my motor has never leaked.
knock on wood. lol just jinxed myself
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1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses. http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/ |
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